Our 1992 Honda Accord died a week ago. The tachometer needle rapidly fluctuated between low and high for a few seconds (although the engine's actual RPMs didn't), then the engine quit. It would not restart. We had the car towed home. Each morning since then, I have been able to start the engine (the tach still doesn't register). It runs fine for three minutes, then begins to skip or miss, and then stops. It cannot be restarted until the next morning.

My first guess is the fuel filter or a blockage somewhere. Any thoughts?

Thanks.

Jay

 

Could be fuel but let me ask about spark. Once it dies, are you getting good blue spark at the plugs?

Really sounds more like the coil or ICM/igniter is getting hot and "giving up" than a blockage at the fuel filter or pump.

 

There is spark at the ends of two wires, though they seemed pretty weak to me. I put the end of a philips head screwdriver in the end and held it next to a bolt on the engine block. Had to hold it real close to get a spark. I didn't think of the igniter, because I had replaced the distributor (which included a new igniter) in September, following a similar problem (although back then, you had to drive about 30 minutes before the car died). I also checked to see that there was fuel where the fuel line connects to the rail. There is. The start up sequence (CEL, relay click, fuel pump) checks out okay. Can I check the voltage at the end of the spark plug wire with a multimeter, or is there too much voltage?

Do you think the tachometer not working and the other problem are related or unrelated and just coincidental?
Thanks.

 

check your fuel pump and its relay.

after the three minutes, are you still getting fuel pumped into engine? check by undoing the line when you can't run your car and see if it squirts gas when you turn the key to the ON position.

 

Weak spark and sputtering, and no tach signal? Possibly a faulty or failing pickup in the distributor? The car heats up just enough to cause the failing component to fully open? But the engine should not be that heat soaked that it would require an overnight stay to reclose the break. When it comes to automotive electrical components weird and unexpected things happen.
Some brands have faulty new components, what brand/rebuilder is the distributor from?
You cannot check the secondary side voltage. But you can check the resistance of the plug wires, coil, and possibly the hall effects device. Best to check them when cold, then after the engine has warmed up, or in your case after it dies. I doubt its the plug wires as when they become faulty they are usually pretty consistent.

Have you tried loosening or removing the gas cap after the car dies, if you here hissing, there may be an issue with the EVAP system. Try restarting the car with the cap off.

 

Related, IMO. There is a signal from the dist, don't feel like looking up the wire color (sorry), to the tach. Based upon your description, that is why I went to asking about spark and nothing about fuel....could be a bad assumption but that is where my mind was last night.....and still is.

 

It was the igniter. I took it out and had it tested at Auto Zone. It failed all but one of the tests. I bought a new one, installed it, and everything is fine. My only concern is why the original one failed at 124,000 miles and the second one only lasted nine months. I've always thought the engine runs a little warm (though not according to the temperature gauge). Next job -- replacing the driver-side drive axle. Oh boy.