so yea my car will start up fine and after driving it for like 10-30 mins at times after turning it off and running into the store i come out after like 5 mins and the car wont start, i been push starting it to get it moving but thats really annoying,

i thought it could be the main relay so i checked it out and it had a huge crack in it so i replaced that,

had alt and battery checked and they are all good.

i am thinking possible vapor lock.....not too sure on how to check to see if that is the problem is there anything else that can cause this?

 

any one have any clue why this could be happening?

 

Don't know if that's the problem, but I used to own an Audi 80 that used to drive me nuts. The same story - I drive to the store and when I get back after about 10 minutes, it won't start. I had to wait about 20 minutes or more (sometimes more than hour) so it cools down. Sometimes I asked some friends if they could push it (wasn't that fun pushing it at the downtown). When I finally decided to get it repaired, it turned out to be a faulty starter. Replaced it and the problem was gone.

 

try your main relay

 

^^ x2!

Main Relay.

 

Check your battery connections and make sure they aren't corroded but most likely x3 main relay.

 

I thought he already replaced the main relay (as it had a crack).

 

okay well then the question is did he replace it with one from a junkyard or a used one? did it have a crack in the plastic shell or in the solders? crack in the plastic wont affect it, these things go bad all the time. he could of just as easily picked up another bad one. if so check the solders and if there bad then solder them back together. im almost 100% sure its still the main relay.

 

Main relay is #1 suspect, but older Accords sometimes act funny anyway. On warm days after a hard run, I sometimes have trouble getting mine started again if it has only been off for a few minutes. Sometimes removing the fuel cap and letting vapor pressure out will help. If in a hurry, starting it in Flood Mode works. Hold pedal to floor while turning key, let it crank till it fires up and runs. I strongly suspect this problem has something to do with a fuel pressure regulator or something like that that doesn't like being asked to move forward again while it still resetting itself.

 

Reading and comprehension anyone?
The other problem with these cars is the electrical ignition switch. Might want to pull it apart and check it for wear/arcing.

 

So what exactly is the car doing when it won't re-start. You say it will run if you push start it? Are you saying the starter is not turning over the engine, that is why you have to push start it.

 

I have a 97 dx. Started having similar issues, the car will start if it's been sitting long enough for the engine to cool all the way down. Run the car up to temp, shut it off and try to restart and it just cranks. I've figured out that it's getting excessive fuel and that's the reason for the start trouble. I was checking my fuel pump and decided to see what would happen if I disconnected the pump. Did do andit fired up within a few seconds. I'm trying to figure out what's causing it to dump so much fuel in. When the engine is warm it'll just crank and I smell raw fuel. It also started idling high when it was hot. Cleaned out the IACV and it helped with the idling but not the no start when hot problem. I can get it to start once the engine has cranked long enough for the battery to run down almost completely. My guess is that it starts when the fuel pump doesn't have enough battery power to dump all the excess gas in it. This is just an easy test I found to narrow down the prob. Showed me it was getting too much rather than not enough. Pull up the back seat. Unscrew the cover plate to the pump. Put your hand on it while you prime and you can easily tell if it's working. If you have spark, fuel pump works, relay is good, try this test.

 

My ignition switch problem showed this hot temp, non start problem.

 

What's lacking in the equation? Spark, Fuel, or Compression? Figure that out first before you chase ghosts around.

 

I diagnosed what seem to be the problem on Honda's not starting when hot weather or been driven for a while.

These are the steps listed on what you should do:
BATTERY (This should be checked First)

1. Fuel (check all related fuel systems esp Fuel pump and injectors).

2. Main relay (Check and diagnose).

3. Ignition system ( Check and diagnose esp ignition coil and ICM "Ignition control module). NOTE: ICM tends to overheat it has a small backing plate that acts like a heatsink, Put some thermal compound between them. I think honda made a fail safe system for that part to go bad in the long run as years of service its a good thing but a hassle to diagnose.

4. Alternator ( but not usually the problem).

5.Starter (check and diagnose).

6. MAF sensor (When hot or cold conditions faulty one can cause to no start conditions).

NOTE: the most important diagnosis of this no start when hot condition is (Ignition system and main relay, starter could be also the culprit but these part is robustly made so they can take the beating).

HOPE this will help the community BTW im new car things but please be excuse me and have patience.

 

Kind of like pissing into the wind, without knowing what "car wont start on hot days" means, diagnosing problem will be impossible.

What happens when you try and start it????

Nothing, no crank, no click, nothing?
Just a click?
Engine cranks but will not start?

If nothing, do this... https://honda-tech.com/tech-misc-15/...mp%5D-2961164/

If engine starts with a bump start "push starting" then it is unlikely to be the PGM-FI Main Relay, unless it is not priming, to check turn ign. on to run, not all the way to start an listen for the fuel pump, it should run for about 3sec. the turn off. 94

 

it is the fuel relay off circuit under the driver's side steering wheel.