I have recently taken my car to the dyno since I upgraded my header and exhaust, and I mostly wanted to make sure I had a safe A/F ratio from the tune.

Here's the info on my setup:

B18C5 (stock)
Intake: 4 1/4" inlet whale ***** with K&N Filter. Stock tb & IM with hondata gasket
Header: Private Label Hytech Replica Big Tube Header, 2.5" outlet
Exhaust: 2.5" with 2.5" Hi-Flow Cat, 2.5" Magnaflow muffler
Ignition: MSD sport compact box with MSD Blaster Coil, MSD Distributor Cap & Rotor (this ignition came with the car and was not purchased). NGK Wires and BKR7E copper plugs.
ECU: Chipped P28 Running Chrome
Trans: S80, 4.4FD with LSD. Exedy stage 1 clutch with machined Type R flywheel.
Others: Adjustable Cam Gears (set at 0,0), Moroso baffled oil pan, valve cover barb & Vibrant Vacuum scavaging oil cap running to catch can. 255lph fuel pump.
Running Sunoco Ultra 94 pump gas.

I am a young guy on a budget. This motor is in my DC2 chassis that I daily drive (in the summer only) and I also take it to local racetracks around Toronto for open track days. Everyone around Toronto is very lucky because within 2 hours we have Mosport International Raceway, the Mosport Driver Developement Track, Shannonville Raceway, Toronto Motorsprots Park (Cayuga), and Grand Brend Motorplex is building a brand new 3.5 km road course opening soon.

I have the option to go back get more tuning done, my dad's friend tuned the car and they are extremely well priced. The graph attached is from a few days ago. I am looking to safely make some increases within 4.5-8k (where the car is revving on the track days I attend). I am open to buying some new parts for my build before I go back to have it tuned again. I just need to keep my 2.5" high-flow cat because we have Emission's tests here in Ontario.

For this tune the AF was 13.5 from 3-6k, from 6 to 7.3k it drops to 13.0 and goes back to 13.5 from 7.3 to 8.4k. The tuner said the next time I come back he can have it perfectly evened out to 13.5 across (we just ran out of time a few days ago). I have a picture of the AF's on my phone but I did not have them on the printout.

Thanks in advance for all the input and suggestions.

 

Tell you tuner to fix the massive dip in the chart at 5.5k

The chart should look more like this:

 

there is quite a few things you can do to pick up some more power. from your graph it looks like your motor could use a bit more of ignition timing. the waviness in the graph is what is telling me that. also don't necessarily shoot for 13.5 to 1 afr. that is just a number. find where the motor makes best power. on my old h22 it liked it right around 12.5 to make the best power.

also as wolve stated you should definitely lower your vtec engagement to smooth out the power. there is a huge jump as soon as it engages.

every one is going to tell you to get rid of the wale *****. alot of mid range can be picked up with a nice 3" cold air intake. if you wanna get creative with things you can build your own out of some mandrel 3" bends and save a bit of money. the important part of a cai isn't so much the temp although that does play a role but the length of the intake is what seems to make the power.

 

Just going to throw this out there because it was very helpful to me in deciding what parts and combos to use with my setup. Check out the 1.8L dyno/build thread. See what people have used and what numbers they have put up. There are hundreds of pages and thousands of posts to work from.

Here I went and found 2 threads for you..
Stock bottom end 1.8 thread
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...8l+dyno+thread
All Motor dyno thread
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...8l+dyno+thread

 

Get it tuned, fix that dip.
Then sell all that MSD stuff, put OEM back on and use the money for some better upgrades. Sell the Whale and get a AEM 3" CAI or make you own.

 

Exactly what OH1fst gsr said, junk all that msd **** get a 3inch cai for sure, and go to a toda/smsps or small tube header. the big tube is crap hence why im switching good thing i am before i installed it

 

Thanks for the input! I researched a bit into the 3" CAI intakes, and I believe I now have a fun weekend project of building one out of PVC piping and just putting a 3" cone filter (with a v stack) on the end of it. I am going to make it a bit long so I can cut small sections out of it when I goto the dyno again. I just need to figure out what I'll make the barb out of on the air intake. In the future I'd love to upgrade my valvesprings, retainers, and valve stem seals when I build up that much dispoable income. At that point in time I would upgrade my cams and buy a really good header. After this summer I will start saving for the valvetrain upgrades. I will post a new graph after I build my CAI and get a new tune with Vtec at 4500.

 

PVC piping is probably one of the worst things you could make a custom intake out of. Get some 3" stainless exhaust tubing.

 

what ever happened to using aluminum?

 

Aluminum works too.

 

Do I need to tell you what the f@$* you can do with an aluminum tube?! ALUMINUM!

 

^^^ hahha Yes! I would lean more toward a SRI w/ Velocity stack vs Cai....

 

+1

 

i would lean more towards the cai all day, as long as you aint near water

 

Hydrolock should not be a concern unless you intentionally drive through puddles to get people wet walking on the sidewalk.

Besides that, an SRI with a velocity stack is generally better.