Ok thanks for looking. I need some help. Keep in mind I am not a newb when it comes to Honda's, but this has me stumped. I have a 99 JDM B18C Type R Full swap in my 99 Honda Civic EX. I was driving yesterday, when out of no where it sounded like my timing jumped. Back fireing, missing, and just not running right at all. So I got the timing light out, I was set dead on 16. So i pulled the valve cover, upper timing cover, and turned the block to TDC. Cams were aligned perfect. I just did the timing belt, water pump, and Tensioner about 200 miles ago just because I can. I like to be safe, not sorry, and I was at 60k on the engine. Well anyways back on subject, I did a compression test. Results were 60psi all the way across. I can here the compression escaping through the exhaust valves, makes a gurgle sound when I turn it over by hand. I cannot figure this out. Any help will be appreciated. Please let this be something other than what I am thinking.

Thanks
-Rob
"RLW"

 

Sparkplug wires? Sparkplug broken and piece fell into a cylinder? Distributor issue?

Isn't 60psi really low on compression?

 

Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are all brand spanking new. Before this happened I was running 235 in each cylinder.

 

Ugghh - in that case... I think 60psi across the board is the key to this.

And I don't see how it could be good news.

Steve

 

Yeah, I am pretty stumped. I would think I bent my valves, but the timing was right on.

 

Something is seriously wrong with your engine.

With those numbers I would pull the head and see what happened.

 

Bent valves sounds like it. Did you do a leakdown to really tell where it's coming from.. even bending valves bending them all that exactly is strange.

Adjustable cam gears slipped?

What else is done to the motor? mod wise..

 

Engine is totally stock. I built the car to be my dd with added fun. I did do a Leakdown test. Rings are fine. I am stumped, all 4 cylinders are the same almost exactly 60psi on all 4. Cylinder 3 was 61psi. I even had a buddy bring over his compression tester to make sure it wasn't mine. You can hear the compression going right out the exhaust. That's what led me to believe it was timing. I did take it a little further. I advanced the exhaust cam 1 tooth, and rolled it over by hand to see if I could get it to stop. No dice. Still that awefull gurgle sound of the compression out the exhaust. I really want to make sure it is not something somebody has delt with before I go ripping the head off.

 

Once you do a leakdown test you will find your problem.

 

Unfortunately, I'd suggest pulling the head to investigate further.

 

What about a crack in the head across the cylinders allowing gasses to bleed from the "closed" piston over to the exhaust valve of the open piston. If this type of crack occurred it might affect all 4 pistons similarly, right?

Steve

 

I know*sigh* I am just trying to avoid it if possable.

 

Yes it could, but it would be highly unlikely the head would crack in all four cylinders and render the same compression numbers exactly, every time.

 

Except what about a crack that spans all 4 pistons unevenly (some pistons have cracks larger than others), BUT the crack to the exhaust is only 1 spot. All 4 pistons would depressurize into the crankcase and that pressure would find its way to the exhaust. If this happened I'd think that it would "look like" all 4 pistons had similar cracks, but in fact it's just that the crankcase pressure is bleeding into the exhaust in 1 spot, limiting the pressure to 60 psi.

How about that?

Steve

 

A leakdown would have revealed that. He didn't hear leakage into the crankcase, just the exhaust.

 

Point taken.

Steve

 

Yes, this is what led me to believe it was timing. The reason I do not want to pull the head off right now is because I am almost flat broke. I just built this thing. I dropped 8k+ into this build. My savings is just about gone. I have a wife and 4 kids to support as well. So I am trying to cut costs here, and lets face it. Parts for these are not all that cheap. Just to put the head back on with quality parts I am looking at at least 500.00, and that if none of the head components need to be replaced(valves, springs retainers).

 

Here are some pics of the finished project. 68k original miles on the shell. 60k on the engine.

 

Just to put the head back on is just a head gasket, around $70. How much you'll spend is going to depend on the damage.

Definately sucks, but it's not drivable in the condition it's in right now unfortunately.

 

Yeah, but personally I wouldn't feel right using the original head bolts, intake gasket, and exhaust gasket. I am just the type of person to do it the right way the first time, and not have to mess with it again.

 

Forgot about the intake gasket, you are correct there.

Exhaust gasket can be reused though. I replace them every 5-6 years, but it'll be fine, especially if you just replaced it.

Head bolts are fine to reuse too, but I prefer ARP head studs and would suggest that route if you are going to replace them.

 

I swear by ARP anything studs. I have never had a problem with any of them. That would definitely be the route I would go. I am also thinking of slapping in a set of PCT pistons while it is apart. 12.5:1 sound real nice. See that is why I am broke:lol:

EDIT: yes the exhaust gasket is brand new.

 

You know...the timing is kinda tricky to check properly. Check it again. The line of sight kinda sucks. Make sure that the little notches on the cam gears align with each other.

You should also be able to stick a (5/16''?? or 8mm??) punch or screw driver through the cam holder holes. The screw driver/punch method is what I use to check accuracy even after checking the arrows are pointing up and the cams dots are aligned.

I've done a B series T-belt and water pump on a friend's car before and the timing was off by a tooth or so. Car ran like JJJJJUUNNNKKKK. I looked and looked at the stupid "up" marks and they *looked* fine. Thing is that they don't face straight up and down when the cams are aligned. They kinda both face up and outward a little. Aligning the dots and using a punch/screwdriver is how I realized that the timing was off.

When you align the crank to the timing cover, close one eye and make sure you're staring STRAIGHT down at that timing arrow. Again, line of sight sucks when the motor is in the car.

 

This is good info. I totally forgot about that. I am going to go home and try that out!!

 

For the crank alignment arrow, make sure that you close one eye and look at it in a way that you can only see the top of the arrow and not the sides. Basically, you want to look at the arrow in the same angle that it is placed.

Good luck. Let us know how it works out.

The UP arrows on the cam gears should really only be used to get you into the ball park since they both face up and out a little. I think because the engine sits on an angle. Use the cam dots and the punch/screwdriver method to get it exact.

Check the hell out of it after everything is together lol. Did you buy a new tensioner and spring when you did the T-belt? Make sure you get enough tension on the belt so that it doesn't happen again.