630hp Turbo Midori Ek (Civic)
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,185
Likes: 0
From: Sunrise, FL
630hp Turbo Midori Ek (Civic)
UPDATE:
CAR WENT 10.5@145mph (see thread for video)
Video:
http://youtu.be/OyLoTGhalxE
http://youtu.be/1u2skMXBxLQ
For sale is my STREET CAR which I built but rarely use now that I finished building it. I built it so it's reliable but quick. It's tuned on E85 because I didn't want to rely on race gas for a street car. E85 can be found anywhere within 10-15miles and it's REALLY inexpensive, it's even less expensive than 89octane! Traction bars, stiff mounts and a built transmission (LSD Diff and CUFF) have made the drive-train very reliable. It's also made it easy to make the car consistent at the track and it's set up to cut 1.6 60ft times every time. All the tuning and mechanical kinks have been worked out, all I do is change plugs and oil change every 2-3 visits to the track or 200-300miles. I've been to the track about 5 times and the car is intact without any problems. This car is trouble free.
The car has ran 10's PLENTY of times but I'm not much of a driver at the track. My best time is 10.6 but with more seat time I should lower the ET's. My tuner (Fred from H.P.C. aka HORSEPOWER CONNECTION) says it should run low 10's with the current set-up/power level.
The motor was built with quality parts, balanced and blue-printed. I drove the car over 1,000miles and did about 3 oil changes while breaking the motor in. I got the it tuned after it was broken in.
I'm pretty sure this is why my motors last a loooong time. THE LAST MOTOR I built for myself lasted about 5years of constant beating/racing. It was a turbo set-up almost identical to this one. I raced it every weekend when I lived in NYC for 2 1/2yrs, I drove it from Ny to Fl without stopping, I raced it in FL for 1yr then took it to the track and ran 10's. I sold the car and it lasted another 2yrs of constantly racing by the new owner. I build my motors with a lot of attention to detail so that it lasts the distance.
Rest assure that no shortcuts were taken when putting the car/motor together.
1996 Midori Green Cx
Si Cluster, Si rims, Ls seats
Hood is cut out, Extra set of gutted doors, heater core and a/c box removed, no spare tire
Clean title
Turbo Kit
Precision 58/62
Tial BOV
Tial 44mm V-band
Ramhorn manifold
3" downpipe
Electron boost controller (boost by gear)
T-bolt clamps
Spearco intercooler
3" intercooler piping
Suspension
coilovers
1000k rear springs
Adjustable front - stock rear
Solid rear mount
Avid torque mounts
GSR front discs - steel braided front lines
Dustless/high heat pads
Rear drums (less weight)
Block
GSR block (direct from the dealer, stock sleeves)
Block guard
9.1 Weisco dish pistons
Eagle H-Beam roads w/upgraded bolts
All new bearings
New OEM water pump
New OEM oil pump
All new gaskets
Balanced and blueprinted
Head
GSR head (hot tanked)
CTR intake cam / GSR exhaust cam
Rev valves (flat)
Rev springs & retainers
Edelbrock Victor X intake manifold (ported for tb)
Blox 70mm throttle body
ARP head stubs
Fuel
AEM fuel rail
Injector Clinic 900cc (no resistor box)
Fuel Lab - Pressure regulator
Fuel Lab - Fuel Filter
Steel braided lines from filter to rail
Walbro 255HP in-tank pump
Walbro 255HP in-line pump
Electronics
Hondata S300
P28 ecu
Boost controller through S300
MSD 6AL
MSD Blaster Coil
NGK plug wires
Custom separate fuse block for electronics
Transmission
GSR gearing
New OBX diff
New Liberty cuff
No 5th Gear because of the Cuff
NEW 3/4 gear selector & syncro
ACT light weight flywheel
ACT heavy duty pressure plate
ACT 6 puck disc
Misc
3" exhaust & vibrant muffler
Slim fan
Aluminum radiator
Z10 catch can
NOS wet single fogger nitrous kit
bottle blanket
M&H drag radials
it's a realiable car for the power
-its why I built the transmission
-I've spent a lot of time putting the car together because I wanted to work out all the kinks
Tuned on E85 for the convenience and low cost of fuel
Turbo spools fast
Car feels very responsive
Best ET 10.60 (I need more seat time)
Best MPH is 141 (I could still turn the boost up another 2-3lbs)
Car made 604hp w/o nitrous and 630hp w/nitrous
Oil changed every 200-300 miles
Doesn't burn oil
Doesn't smoke
Boost by gear is an AWESOME option for optimizing the power level for best traction in each gear
Consistant 1.6 60ft times at the track. I just need more seat time to adjust the boost by gear for 2nd gear to get a lower ET
Solid/Very stiff mounts so the car vibrates a bit
More pictures: http://photobucket.com/600hpTurboEk
ACCEPTING REASONABLE OFFERS
$7500 with stock rims and no nitrous
$8000 as is right now
$8300 as is right now AND a set of 24 1/2"x 13" Mickey Thompson Slicks on LENSO rims
CAR WENT 10.5@145mph (see thread for video)
Video:
http://youtu.be/OyLoTGhalxE
http://youtu.be/1u2skMXBxLQ
For sale is my STREET CAR which I built but rarely use now that I finished building it. I built it so it's reliable but quick. It's tuned on E85 because I didn't want to rely on race gas for a street car. E85 can be found anywhere within 10-15miles and it's REALLY inexpensive, it's even less expensive than 89octane! Traction bars, stiff mounts and a built transmission (LSD Diff and CUFF) have made the drive-train very reliable. It's also made it easy to make the car consistent at the track and it's set up to cut 1.6 60ft times every time. All the tuning and mechanical kinks have been worked out, all I do is change plugs and oil change every 2-3 visits to the track or 200-300miles. I've been to the track about 5 times and the car is intact without any problems. This car is trouble free.
The car has ran 10's PLENTY of times but I'm not much of a driver at the track. My best time is 10.6 but with more seat time I should lower the ET's. My tuner (Fred from H.P.C. aka HORSEPOWER CONNECTION) says it should run low 10's with the current set-up/power level.
The motor was built with quality parts, balanced and blue-printed. I drove the car over 1,000miles and did about 3 oil changes while breaking the motor in. I got the it tuned after it was broken in.
I'm pretty sure this is why my motors last a loooong time. THE LAST MOTOR I built for myself lasted about 5years of constant beating/racing. It was a turbo set-up almost identical to this one. I raced it every weekend when I lived in NYC for 2 1/2yrs, I drove it from Ny to Fl without stopping, I raced it in FL for 1yr then took it to the track and ran 10's. I sold the car and it lasted another 2yrs of constantly racing by the new owner. I build my motors with a lot of attention to detail so that it lasts the distance.
Rest assure that no shortcuts were taken when putting the car/motor together.
1996 Midori Green Cx
Si Cluster, Si rims, Ls seats
Hood is cut out, Extra set of gutted doors, heater core and a/c box removed, no spare tire
Clean title
Turbo Kit
Precision 58/62
Tial BOV
Tial 44mm V-band
Ramhorn manifold
3" downpipe
Electron boost controller (boost by gear)
T-bolt clamps
Spearco intercooler
3" intercooler piping
Suspension
coilovers
1000k rear springs
Adjustable front - stock rear
Solid rear mount
Avid torque mounts
GSR front discs - steel braided front lines
Dustless/high heat pads
Rear drums (less weight)
Block
GSR block (direct from the dealer, stock sleeves)
Block guard
9.1 Weisco dish pistons
Eagle H-Beam roads w/upgraded bolts
All new bearings
New OEM water pump
New OEM oil pump
All new gaskets
Balanced and blueprinted
Head
GSR head (hot tanked)
CTR intake cam / GSR exhaust cam
Rev valves (flat)
Rev springs & retainers
Edelbrock Victor X intake manifold (ported for tb)
Blox 70mm throttle body
ARP head stubs
Fuel
AEM fuel rail
Injector Clinic 900cc (no resistor box)
Fuel Lab - Pressure regulator
Fuel Lab - Fuel Filter
Steel braided lines from filter to rail
Walbro 255HP in-tank pump
Walbro 255HP in-line pump
Electronics
Hondata S300
P28 ecu
Boost controller through S300
MSD 6AL
MSD Blaster Coil
NGK plug wires
Custom separate fuse block for electronics
Transmission
GSR gearing
New OBX diff
New Liberty cuff
No 5th Gear because of the Cuff
NEW 3/4 gear selector & syncro
ACT light weight flywheel
ACT heavy duty pressure plate
ACT 6 puck disc
Misc
3" exhaust & vibrant muffler
Slim fan
Aluminum radiator
Z10 catch can
NOS wet single fogger nitrous kit
bottle blanket
M&H drag radials
it's a realiable car for the power
-its why I built the transmission
-I've spent a lot of time putting the car together because I wanted to work out all the kinks
Tuned on E85 for the convenience and low cost of fuel
Turbo spools fast
Car feels very responsive
Best ET 10.60 (I need more seat time)
Best MPH is 141 (I could still turn the boost up another 2-3lbs)
Car made 604hp w/o nitrous and 630hp w/nitrous
Oil changed every 200-300 miles
Doesn't burn oil
Doesn't smoke
Boost by gear is an AWESOME option for optimizing the power level for best traction in each gear
Consistant 1.6 60ft times at the track. I just need more seat time to adjust the boost by gear for 2nd gear to get a lower ET
Solid/Very stiff mounts so the car vibrates a bit
More pictures: http://photobucket.com/600hpTurboEk
ACCEPTING REASONABLE OFFERS
$7500 with stock rims and no nitrous
$8000 as is right now
$8300 as is right now AND a set of 24 1/2"x 13" Mickey Thompson Slicks on LENSO rims
Last edited by Killer_B; May 23, 2011 at 05:53 PM. Reason: update
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,185
Likes: 0
From: Sunrise, FL
Re: 630hp Turbo Midori Ek (Civic)
Turn key 10sec car.
This isn't someone's unfinished project, all the kinks and bugs have
Been worked out!
Fuel up, Change oil & plugs when necessary and go!
This isn't someone's unfinished project, all the kinks and bugs have
Been worked out!
Fuel up, Change oil & plugs when necessary and go!
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Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,185
Likes: 0
From: Sunrise, FL
Re: 630hp Turbo Midori Ek (Civic)
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ActiveAero
Road Racing / Autocross & Time Attack
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Mar 31, 2003 11:36 PM
