My cam seals were leaking on my gsr build. So I had to take everything back off to put new ones in. After I got everything in I had to line up my exhaust cam gear to TDC, and while turning the cam gear by hand with a ratchet, the cam will lock up period. Even with the timing belt on and turning the crank by hand the whole motor will lock up once it gets to a certain point.

Any ideas? I'm kind of lost. I just got this build back together and now it's being all stupid( I did get the car to start before I saw oil leaking). I did notice that the cams were harder to spin than when I had my oem valvetrain while turning by hand.

My valvetrain now consist of crower dual valvesprings and retainers with BC3+ cams. Any idea would help.

 

Are the cam caps the original ones with the head? Also valve lash would make it harder to turn also.

 

Back the caps off a tad, dont take them completely off, its possible you might have tighten them too tight.

Remove the valvecover and watch it, depending on valvetrain your motor will be hard to turn over, but not to the point to where you're busting a vain.

 

Take the distributor off and see if it spins freely. I have seen them go in 180 off and would make it really hard to turn past a certain point.

 

as your lining up the cam gear, are you turning it clockwise, or counter-clock wise? Is your crank TDC? I think( As in me) it might be that your pistons might be up, and as your aligning your cams, your valves are making contact with your pistons. I would pull both cams, set it say 1/4 turn before TDC, install the cams TDC, then set the crank TDC, install timing belt, then go from there....I am probably wrong...

 

Cam caps are the original ones. Valve adjustment was made a week ago when I first installed everything. I did notice that the cam caps are having a harder time lining up. If I back off the cam caps enough to loosen it the cam spins fine.

They are not over torqued, as I only hand tighten them down. In a sequential order

I doubt it's piston to valve contact, the intake cam is hard to spin but it spins. The exhaust cam was fine until I had to spin it back to TDC.

 

Exhaust cam, not intake cam.

 

Make sure the cap arms are in proper order..and not switched up... very possible you have them swapped.

 

I doubled checked. 4-3-2 from the distributor to the cam gears. I don't get how all of a sudden it would have piston to valve issue when the car idled fine before that.

I'm starting to lean towards it cause when I was trying to figure it out last night it would also get stuck while spinning the motor over by the crank.

I adjust my valves to what Buddy Club recommended. I have turned over each cam individually before and didn't have an issue.

 

Sounds like maybe the exhaust cam may be retarded. Tried putting the pistons half down the cylinder and rotating the exhaust cam then?

 

So I just went back out to the garage. Slapped the belt on just to see if it would spin, and it did. F'en weird. So I lined everything back up to TDC and tensioned my timing belt. Seems to be turning over smoothly. Here's a video clip:

http://youtu.be/3evQWH_BUoY

 

Looks fine, Good job on figuring it out!

 

i was actually about to post this, but you beat me to the punch lol, it sounds like he was in a bind with it..

 

Glad you figured it out. Just for future reference, when the #1 piston is at tdc, all valves in cylinder one and 4 should be closed. Cam lobes on cylinder one intake side should be facing towards the front of the motor(or the spark plug), getting ready to make contact with rocker arm pads to prepare to open the intake valves for intake stroke. Exhaust cam lobes should be facing the rear of the motor as they just finished opening/closing the exhaust valves for their exhaust stroke.

 

Thanks for all the info guys. I'll update this on how she turns out when I start her in a bit.

 

Update:

http://youtu.be/oRcTxa95ILE


http://youtu.be/YS-N4KUdvwk