I know that there is alot of back and forth on this subject but who out there has had their b series crank balanced, who did it, did u lighten and knife-edge it too, was it balanced with the rods pistons clutch/flywheel and crank pulley and about what did you pay. im about to rebuild my b16a. I superlap it and track it as much as i can i wanna be ABLE to run it up to 10K rpm safely. i dont have a specific hp goal and reliability and durability are more important to me. actually need to stay at about 185 to keep in my current class at my current weight. itll be dyno tuned and dynod on a mustang dyno. I also plan on spending between $4k-5k on the motor not including install. i want as much midrange as possible, be able to make power all the way to 10k and maybe get some low-end. i dont that powerband is possible though.

*what i already have,
installed
toda knock-off header (will get a custom 1 after the build)
hondata s300
custom cold air box 3"intake with 4" chamber on it
2.25 custom exhaust with vibrant steel core race cat and vibrant black stealth muffler
68mm throttle body
blox fpr amd fp gauge
for build
new oem timing belt, tensioner, oil-pump, water pump and seals (head and block)
84mm 12.5:1 supertech pistons
walbro 255 pump

*what i know i want
im gonna darton sleeve the block to 84mm
port and polish the head
skunk2 intake manifold
exedy or act clutch with light flywheel probably 8-10lbs

*what im not sure about
cams- probably sk2 pro1s, trying to find info on the endyne cams, open to other suggestions
rods- was gonna do tried and true eagles till a few ive seen lately have had the big end out of round, found it but plastigauge not being consistent on them then mic'd them
looking at bisimoto rods, k1 and probe ultralights by scat. interested in the probes if anyone has some info on them.
springs and retainers- sk2 pros or supertech? would be willing to spend the extra 100 for piece of mind if persuaded theyre worth it.
balance the rotating assembly- i know honda cranks are pretty damn well balanced but i also know they could be better. the b16b is the only 1 that is balanced enough to not use a harmonic balancing crank pulley. ive seen alot of others using the n1 crank pulley and tearing up oil-pumps because it wasnt balanced. im sure itll last without it being balanced with runs to 10k but will ut last longer with 10k runs after being further balanced?


sorry its so long but wanted to put all the info in there hope i didnt miss anything

 

I am in a bit of a rush, but I will come back to this later. So you plan on getting the block sleeved?

 

with a inline 4, you will balance the crank, then weight match the pistons/rods
at least thats what i've been told

 

I've seen a balanced rotating assembly for an ls/vtec using forged rods and pistons. The removal of material was minimal to say the least. Using the 77 crank, I personally see no need to spend the money for balancing even when it's gonna see those rpm's on a regular basis. I would focus more of my attention on clearences and oiling being a "super lap" motor. VT wise, I would match the brand to the cam. S2 cams, S2 vt.

 

thanks for all the suggestions so far. i do appreciate it

anothersickhatch So you plan on getting the block sleeved?[/QUOTE]
yeah that will be first gonna send it out to a place that uses darton sleeves

clean rice VT wise, I would match the brand to the cam. S2 cams, S2 vt.
i think thats what im leaning towards i just feel more confident in the sk2 pro vt anyway.

SR20S13 you will balance the crank, then weight match the pistons/rods
at least thats what i've been told
a local machine shop that has a great rep will do this for me for only $200 with my wholesale discount for working at a dealership so i figure its worth it if they can make it even just alittle bit better, atleast enough to safely run an n1 crank pulley

 

bump for more opinions on rods

 

noone has any rod suggestions? im leaning towards either the k1 or the probe rods. both in the 300-400 range and lighter than most others. the probe is a I-beam though which theoretically will be more aerodynamic because it doesnt have the side pockets that an h-beam does. has anyone or know someone that have used the probes i think they are made by scat because they always come up together. thanks in advance

 

i am not too sure about the rods that you should use, but you can never go wrong with the big names. they all have great products.

I would get everything balanced together by a machine shop and keep the stock crank pulley. skunk 2 pro cams will give you great mid-range and high end power as well. you will keep decent mid range and low end torque with that exhaust being so small, but you will lose high end power. I am no road racer, but i would imagine that you would be above 5-6k rpms for most of these events. with that being said, go with a 2.5 in. exhaust and stick with those cams.

my only concern is your goal of staying under 185hp for fear of being moved to a different class. if all goes to plan with this particular build, i see this motor making way more than 185hp. you could make 185 without the sleeves or pistons by using the parts listed.