Ok, let me start with what I have:

GSR HEAD - B16A2 BLOCK - 2000 Civic EX coupe- P2t (Obd2 99-00 si ECU)

Problem:

I am not clearly hearing my vtec crossover when I am at the correct rpms...

I have checked the speed sensor, thats good... I have checked the Vtec siloniod and thats good also.. I've checked the wiring to the vtec solinoid also, thats fine..

We put the car on a lift... so that we were in motion and reved to vtech engage point for that ecu, and with a light tester, showed that at the point it is engaging as it should, but it is not a clear audible crossover which on most b series motors you can hear...

Im running out of options as to why its not clearly able to tell nor even feel the crossover of vtec...

I was told by someone that I might have the wrong cams? Sounds a little strange to me but I dont know... I need some help because I am totally confused and I have no other options of what to check!!!

 

Ugh... Why are you so concerned about hearing it? And what bolt-ons do you have. i.e. exhaust, intake setup etc...

 

Try using a multi-meter instead of your ears.. You should get ~11-12 volts out of the VTEC solenoid lead wire when VTEC should be enguaged (typically green/yellow wire in OBD2 Civic) located on B12 connector on your ECU.
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...ed=0CBwQ9QEwAQ

This thread should be called, "Help my car doesn't sound cool..."

 

If I wanted a non-vtec motor then I would have purchased it, but I did not, so I would expect my car to do what it should.. Its not only "sound" I dont feel any form of difference as I also stated.


Intake-Exhaust-4-2-1 header

 

Thanks, I was looking to use a OBD1 ECU with a jumper harness, so that I can be chipped and tuned, but I wasnt really sure if that would solve the problem...

Just looking to not but cams just yet, I spent alot recently just getting the motor installed and fixing minor issues.

 

Yeah if your car revs up to 8000K rpms or more VTEC is working.

 

I am not convinced there is a problem. Although I do admit it's hard to miss the sound of a VTEC cross over.

You probably have an electrical issue. If not that then a mechanical one. Check voltages to the VTEC pressure switch and the VTEC Solenoid.

Is your computer throwing any codes?

Converting over to OBD1 will most likely not fix your issue.

It is always a good idea to have your car tuned when you change your engine configuration. Are you using Si cams or GSR cams?

Either way you would want to optimize your maps for the GSR head and the slight increase in compression. You'll see a couple more hp

 

I do agree thats is usually pretty has to miss the cross over sound... thats why I know something is wrong.. or not totally right...

I am looking to get it tuned, but 1: I need to go OBD 1 because no one I know will tune it with an OBD2 ECU, and yes I do have codes... I was receiving a crank sensor code, and also Intake air temp and one other..

I am assuming that I have GSR cams... I bought the head and block separate.. But I am looking to step up to some ITR cams or Skunk2 Tuner/Pros in the near future, I just didnt want to have to do that just to hear my crossover, though I know it would also benefit in performance ways as well.

What type of mechanical or electrical issues otherwise would you be thing of?

 

I dont rev my car that high pointlessly, because I dont think everything is working right...

 

Try taking off your vtec soleniod and cleaning it. Sometimes you get debris in there. Good Luck

 

Okay, not to rant, but one thing people always do on here is say they have a problem and neglect to mention the list of MIL codes they are throwing.

What are the codes exactly? The computer will disable VTEC under many conditions. The ECU places the motor in limp mode.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid-engine-swaps-18/%5Bfaq%5D-%22my-vtec-doesnt-work%22-1812135/

 

Thanks for all the posts, my car has been down for about 3 weeks, but I'm thinking maybe the ecu is the issue, so I have to get rid of CEL's and then start troubleshooting again...

 

Have sufficient amount of VTEC fluid?


Are you posative it isn't crossing over? I have an a2 in my si and I don't notice a big difference in sound when it crosses over, but I can definitely feel it.

 

ok to clarify where the vtec solenoid is there is 2 parts to it. the aluminum base which there is a gasket between it and the head that has a filter screen in it, thats what can get clogged and keep vtec from working. a new 1 should be about $19, if you just take it off and clean it then it may start leaking after that. that base also has a valve timing oil pressure switch, that has to be working too. the vtec solenoid sits on top of that base. also check ur oil pressure if ur alittle low on oil or ur oil pump is getting weak it wont put out enough pressure to activate vtec. good luck

 

Question, Would the dizzy possibly cause this issue? I'm just thinking of things randomly.
Being that my car is OBD2 and the head is OBD1... could the wiring to my wiring harness be causing this or maybe a factor?

Also, does anyone know what a "Intermittent speed" code is?

Secondly, where would i be able to get the correct connector to connect my harness to the back of the intake manifold (B-Series) because my connector doesnt fit since my harness is a V-tec D-Series harness?

 

idk if it has been established but have you checked oil level

 

another thing that might help is.. is it a fresh build or a motor youve had and vtec just stopped working?

 

Yes I have checked oil level and all is fine.... And this was a motor that I sourced and put together..

 

If I'm not mistaken won't a crank sensor code disable VTEC? Fix all your CEL's then try again. Even if your codes won't disable VTEC you can cause major damage hitting VTEC with a CEL depending on the problem.

 

"intermittent speed" sounds like something to do with the VSS. Does your speedometer work? That's another one that can cut VTEC

 

vtec will disable with cel. i'd probly worry ab the cel's before i worried about that mmmmmmbbbaaaaahhhhh sound...

 

I was told crank sensor will be deleted when I go OBD1 ECU...

 

My speedometer does work yes, and we tried a new speed sensor and that didnt correct it either...

 

The sensor that goes onto your intake manifold, can my harness be spliced to allow that connector to fit so that I can plug that up correctly? The plug I have is for D series and I have an aftermarket B series intake manifold.