Long story short, I have stopped the leak and I am replacing my clutch. The transmission housing is very clean and dry, but the engine side behind the flywheel is very dirty and oily still.

I have also cleaned the flywheel face itself, but I am afraid of the junk behind the flywheel eventually making its way onto the clutch surface and ruining the clutch. Is this something to worry about and should I remove the flywheel and clean behind it? Or will I be fine?

Thanks,
-Alex

 

It takes all of about 5 minutes to pull the flywheel. I'd pull and clean up the mess and replace the rear main seal that was probably causing the leak in the first place. Just spray everything liberally with brake clean and wipe it off with a rag.

 

Fairly certain that it was the input shaft seal that was leaking, but I do not see a way to easily hold the flywheel still while I use a breaker bar to loosen the bolts. And at 76ft/lbs with an addition of loctite, I assume it is going to be a bear getting these off. Especially with the engine held up by a jack.

Any suggestions? And the pilot bearing sits behind the flywheel correct?

-Alex

 

Screw a bellhousing bolt back into the block so you have something to let a bar jam up against, put the end of the bar in the teeth of the flywheel ring gear. The pilot bearing pressed in the flywheel itself, but the flywheel has to be off to change it.

 

Perfect...would have taken me ages before I thought of that. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Any tips for a mere human to get those bolts off? I feel like I will break the motor mount off before I get the first bolt loose.

 

Hit the head of each bolt with a hammer first, sometimes that helps. Give the bar a quick snap rather than a steady pull usually helps too. Ideally use an impact gun, then you don't even need to hold the flywheel.

 

Thanks, you have been more than helpful. I used the two impact guns attached to my shoulders....SHAZAM!!!

But on a more serious note. There is no where that I see to put the pilot bearing. The flywheel is flat on the back, and the crank area where the input shaft goes is tapered.

The car is a 1985 CRX HF, and they sent a pilot bearing with the clutch kit...

 

Pics? I Haven't done one that old, but normally the flywheel has a recess on the back side to press the pilot bearing into.

 

On the crank area there are two tapered areas, then the hole.

 

Well that's special. Checked the parts breakdown and I don't see a pilot bearing listed either.

 

I'm not familiar with any Honda pre-1988, but not all engines/transmissions use pilot bearings. How's the clutch alignment tool fit the flywheel there? Does it fit without flopping around? If so, you probably don't have a pilot bearing/bushing that needs to go in there. LOL

p.s. Just replace the rear main seal for piece of mind. You're in there and it's another $10-15.

 

I figured it was just designed without one, and the clutch fits cars that have one, so they include it anyway. Behind the flywheel is MUCH cleaner and dryer than the front, meaning only my input shaft seal was leaking. The area around the rear main seal was especially clean and dry.

The car needs to go together on friday so I can have it road ready the next weekend, and I'm tired of waiting on parts, so the main seal will have to wait until another time.

Thanks again for all the help...

-Alex

EDIT: Also, I didn't read too much into the manual, but I don't recall seeing anything about lubing the hole that the input shaft rests in. I was thinking of cleaning it out well, then putting a dab of moly in there, or maybe some waterproof bearing grease.

 

iirc putting grease in there is a no no, it will squeel like a pig once the grease gets hot and dried out.

 

too late now

EDIT: it was the high temp grease that came with the clutch. Either way...too late now