Well I changed my head gasket started getting hot would bubble out the overflow changed it and still doing the same thing has new pump and a mugen thermoswitch and thermostat help...

 

what about the radiator cap??

 

Is your fan turning on? Is your radiator clogged?

 

Only has 3k miles shouldn't be clogged but its a new fluidyne rad and cap and a new fan

 

If the coolant level rises in the radiator neck while the engine warms up, it means there's air somewhere in the system. The air expands as it heats up and pushes the coolant level higher in the radiator.

 

when is it overheating? will it overheat just idling or when the vehicle is under a load? what was the reason for headgasket replace?

 

yea that's what im hoping for that's just what it did before I changed it had a split was leaking compression no.1 cylinder so hopefully it's a one time deal but what if it isn't what should I look into then

 

it overheats after driving awhile but it does it slowly so only once since the change so I hoping for air in the system to be the culprit just seemed to coincidence that it did the same thing

 

yea just try to bleed the air out. some motors have a bleeder screw, if not a spill free coolant funnel is nice, but be sure the front of the vehicle is higher then the rest. also try to recheck for the leak on the first place.

does the upper coolant hose become hard after a few minutes

 

you sure the mugen thermostat isnt faulty? did you install the headgasket properly? did you bleed the top screw for the head, that leads to overheating quite easy. are you using the gauge to register its overheating, gauges can be wrong

 

when you put the heater on will the temp go down.

 

Bleed the system.
Take off the radiator cap and let the engine run, turn on the heat full blast for about 5 - 10 minutes(this will in theory get all the air out of the heater core). Continue letting the car run with the heat turned off now until the radiator fan comes on(assuming your fan and switch and thermo are good).

 

You don't have to blast the heat in the cabin, just have the temp slider on full hot. Having the slider on hot opens the valve that lets the coolant circulate through the heater core. Turning on the blower does just that, turns on the blower motor, to blow air over the hot heater core. The air blowing will have no effect on the coolant lines or any air that may be in them.

*edit* you should always have the temp slider on full hot before starting any procedure that deals with engine coolant, i.e. coolant flush, or any procedure that requires you to drain the coolant, and likewise keep the slider on hot when you fill the system with coolant at the end of the job.

 

Thanks guys for all the advice I will re bleed it this weekend hopefully that will fix it