I just installed a new clutch and I'm happy it grabbed... HARD! But I snapped my axle. I am on street tires so I rolled around the water box and then went to do a quick spin just to clear anything off from the parking lot. Well the track was just prepped for a pro-mod the run before me so it was ridiculously sticky. I have a video of it all but it basically wheel hopped twice and was done, as soon as it started I pushed in the clutch to stop but it was too late. I'm thinking maybe I didn't rev high enough to get them really spinning. Wheel hopping with HASPORT mounts and poly bushings on everything makes me think where do I do from here? Traction bar? Fill the bottom mounts with window sealant or get the AVID poly mounts? Maybe both would be a good idea. I was thinking of going with a DSS 2.9 axle versus an autozone remans with a lifetime warranty but I'm thinking its more driver error rather than power that did it. Whats the best way to do a burnout, is there something that needs to be done about my setup, or should I just never do that again and roll around the box, preload, stage, and launch like I normally do?

 

Best way to do a burnout with street tires is not to do one because its pointless. Drive around it or get some slicks.

 

with stock axles and street tire i would just start off like normal driving until you get off the line then punch it.....stock axles are weak.....

 

stock axles arent the problem, street tires and wheel hop are, get some slicks if u want to launch otherwise slip the clutch just a bit when taking off.

 

They may not be ideal for a 600whp+ setup or extreme driving/conditions. They they are certainly not "weak".

It's actually not a bad idea to have the weakest link in your setup to be something that's cheap and easy to replace.

 

That is what I figured is that it might be better to have an axle that is the weakest part of the drivetrain. Better that than something internal that cost 5 times as much. It's just a pain in the *** to have to replace anything and the cost of towing is ridiculous. Thankfully I still have 2 more free towing up to 100 miles through AAA and it is actually 100.2 miles from the track to my driveway.

Those that say get slicks, I see hear that a lot as soon as someone says on radials or street tires and breaking something. What if you dead hook with slicks though? Even preloading I would think running slicks would put a lot more stress on everything. Wheel hop does kill though.

 

If u preload correctly ur axles should last u a while with slicks, they absorb the shock, I still run stock ones and yeah they break but every 6-7 passes and in 2nd gear, slicks and traction bars is my suggesstion before upgrading axles, just buy a couple extra ones and keep replacing them for free at ur local advanced auto parts...lol.

 

agree

 

Yeah man its more driver error and street tires is the problem. I ran all last year on slicks and and a twin disc running high 10s on stock axles like the guy said above preloading the drivetrain/suspension does wonders!

 

Damn, it will cost me almost $700 for 2 wheels and 22" MT slicks. Unless I find everything used. If I was a dedicated drag racer I'd say sure but I built my car for road racing. I hit the strip just to see what the car can do since most people base a cars speed off of straight line rather than a circuit. All I want is 1 good pass since last time I had the timing retarded 18* and the clutch couldnt hold at all. I know if I just race how I normally do I will get off the line just fine with street tires and stock axles but the shift to 2nd gear might do it in. Maybe I should granny shift.

 

Lol what do you tell the people at the store when you bring an axle in?

And changing an axle shouldnt take more then 10-15 minutes after you've done a few times. Its usually always the passenger side

 

get some used slicks on some decently offset and wide 15s and just have some fun....

 

I feel as if there is a better way to remove and axle lol. I cant imagine doing it in 15 minutes the way I do it. Remove the 32mm axle nut, remove the strut fork bolt that goes through the LCA, remove the cotter pin and nut for the ball joint, pull the knuckle out and start yanking on the axle to get it out lol. Is that how everyone is doing it or is there a way to not remove the knuckle?

 

its more driver error stock axles can take sum abuse,why are you racing on street tires again?

 

because I want to see what the car can do being driven to the track. Sure I could probably drive on slicks but thats less than ideal with a 100 mile drive on the highway and they would wear out lol. Does anyone know if the LCON traction bars are the same as or now named Spoolin Performance? I'm going to start with new axles, a traction bar, and 70A mount inserts rather than the 62A. Sure it might rattle some but how much worse could it be lol

 

if you just wana see what it can do, dont try and launch it and be happy with womanly 60fts

or keep breaking ****

 

u will never find out what the car really has until it hooks and for that u need slicks, period. what does the car run anyways?

 

if these were facebook status's I would totally like them lmao yall got me cracking up. I wish I knew what it ran. With timing retarded 18* and a clutch slipping so bad after 2 passes I made the track reak of burnt clutch it did a 15.4 @ 92 with a 2.5 60ft. Super embarassing to even say but hey I had problems and to be honest I shouldnt have even ran it with how bad it was lol. New clutch and everything adjusted spot on it is a completely different car. All I'm trying to do is see what it really does with everything working properly lol. My little burnout ruined that but I plan on a redemption next week.

 

2nd Gear, high 2 step, dump the clutch

 

El oh el wut?

 

DO NOT "dump the clutch"

 

2nd gear burnout reduce change of wheelhopping
burnout does help on streettires!!!
just a quick one to get a nice puff of white smoke

preloading+feathering clutch/throttle= key to streettire grip

for suspension:
all energy suspension bushings + stiff mounts = bare minimum
traction bar/solid mounts will help alot

 

In regaurds to the "15 minute" axle change the quickest way would be to simply "pop" the lower ball joint, at that point you could easily pull the axle out. I have seen this done before without a picklefork or ball joint popper, theres a trick to tapping the lower control arm where the ball sits with a hammer and pulling down on the control arm and it popping.Another common misunderstanding is that wheel "hop" is typically more of a horizontal movment "back and forth" parallel to the front and back of car, rather then an up and down motion. A good set of bushings for your suspension will help with this the most, or traction bar.From what i understand, wheel hop is created by your car gaining traction and your weak suspension components/ bushings allowing horizontal movment, so basically your wheel is gaining traction and stay in place while your car is moving forward and then the suspension components being limtited in any further horizontal movement from the weak bushings and mechanical limitations of suspension geometry, then quickly hop forward to where they should be..

 

my pit crew and i have done an axle in less than 3 minutes including jacking up the car and removing the wheel


it helps when the ball joint co-operates and u have an electric impact and someone to jack up the car while u remove parts

 

So funny. I could have written this same post a week and a half ago only I have gator axles and they held but my quaife didn't. Fortunatly for me a buddy had a trans with a quaife he wanted to sell as well as a pair of slicks. As for me, no more street tires on the track.