hey guys just wondering is one better then the other, besides the fact street tuning is dangerous hence your speed on the street, but is one better then the other in regards of actual tune. im having the car street tuned first

 

Street is better for partial tuning and having the tune catered for your driving habits. The Dyno is for the higher RPM range and for peak power in a controlled environment. Both is best, but one is not necessarily better than the other. As long as the tuner is capable, let him/her do their thing.

 

If I had the choice to only do one, it would be street tuning. You may not maximize power or the potential of the motor, but you can get it running safely with street tuning. Its hard to simulate driving conditions and loads of everyday driving on a Dyno.

 

So by no means am I an expert in tuning, but my understanding is that when applicable, street tuning should precede dyno tuning to ensure the setup performs the same under everyday driving. Maybe someone can correct me if I'm wrong.

 

yea my tuner said street tuning is better and it would only be off a few hp in a n/a car from dyno tuning. now im not sure how much off the hp will be but for now im gonna street tune it. my only other concern would be cam setting i know on the dyno you can play with cam gear setting to get peak or mid/low range power but im at a loss where my cam setting should be. if i knew how to degree the cams i would

 

If you wanna drive the 3 hours to ct, ill degree them for yah.

 

does skunk2 tuner 2 cams require degreeing

 

no those are drop ins.

I do alot of cheap street tuning for alot of my buddys and their friends around my town. the one nice thing about a dyno is it will show you when you reach MBT alot easier then trying to do it on the street. mbt is maximum brake tq or minimum best timing, what ever you wanna call it, its basically when you can run the least amount of ignition timing for the best power, on the street you just slowly add in ign timing and watch the wideband and if it keeps going leaner then usually your making more power. the trick is just find a tuner that will take plenty of time on your car to make sure it runs good %100. any one can tune with a little basic knowledge and the right tools

 

No cam is just drop n go.....unless the centerlines are same as stock and you're using a stock thickness HG and no milling/decking has been done.

 

True. Skunk2 stage 2 do not require any special cam seperation. They will run fine be timed at 0,0 with no valve to valve issues.

 

I'm a big believe in street tuning.. and thats what i offer..

I use dyno's to tweak ign settings and cam get settings, but realistically, it can be done at the track as well.. a dyno is a tuning tool, just like the track.

If you can read plugs properly, street tuning is just as effective as a dyno. "most" people say you can put the "real" world load on a car, i've yet to see any dyno tune not need to be tweaked on the street.

Street tuning, allows for the car to be in real world conditions, real down force, real load, real weight on the car driving.

Making small adjustments can be seen @ the track.. besides.. track mph is more indictive of whp numbers then a dyno because in the end, they are all caliberated differently...just my POV.

I've had people run faster @ the track on my tunes, including myself, over a dyno tune, it also depends on who you get to tune your car.

Another way of looking @ the situation is you should street tune your car before you go to the dyno, that away , you're not taking 1 or 2 hours to clean up the AFR on the maps..

 

The tuner 2's are a drop in cam, they will probably like +1/+2 intake and -2 on the exhaust..they like a good bit of seperation..

 

yea i figured a lil advance on intake side and neg on exhaust but didnt know where to set it due to milling of the head which is about .010 or so

 

I'd hate to be on the street where all of you guys are doing 4th gear 9000+rpm pulls lol

 

I do my tunings, late @ night, on streets in a industrial area.. and i only do 2nd / 3rd gear pulls.

this is also where a dyno comes into play as being a safer margin.

 

well im in 3rd gear and not at 9000 rpms lol and my tuner does it also in a indusrtial park area

 

any tips how you guys find which RPM to place Vtec when street tuning for smooth transition?

 

Hard to explain through typing, but usually you cross the fuel maps, where the low cam starts to die off and the high cam starts to take off....

 

I do WOT pulls on the highway late at night for street tuning. Never been on a dyno but will be tuning my car on one in a month or two.

 

Wait....what are you referring to as a drop in cam? No degreeing necessary? No valvetrain upgrade necessary? What is your definition of a drop in cam?

 

i think what he means is they drop in and you can pretty much set em at +1 intake -2exh. and be ok with it and not need to make adjustments

 

4th gear what?? I do my **** on 5th gear 9500rpm pulls.

 

If that is indeed his definition of "drop in" then we have differing definitions of "drop in", which is fine. I just see drop in and making adjustments as contradicting statements.

 

Drop in cam, as in terms , it can be dropped in and go. Of course its a bigger then stock cam.. it needs a valvetrain upgrade. A drop in cam, refers to a cam that doesn't need any gear adjustments..or at least a minimal requirement.

I gave the majority settings that are pretty universal for s2s2's which are +1-+3 on the intake and -1-2 on the exhaust.. the tuner2's like a good bit of seperation..

 

That's cool man. I just don't call them drop in because if its aftermarket, I degree them. I don't care what the manufacturers quick settings are or what they "usually" end up at. There's no way to know how much material was ever removed from a block or head, nor are any cam gears exactly the same. So for me, I don't refer to any cam as a "drop in". We have differing opinions on the use of the term "drop in" which is fine. I just wanted to clarify it for myself. Quick settings are good for people without access to, or the know how to use cam degreeing equipment, but should never be solely relied upon. Ill tell yah, I've had to ajust both cams up to 4 degrees away from a manufacturers recommended quick settings in the past after degreeing.

I've limited my income from this scene because I choose to do everything right. I've had people shy away, because they don't have the time, patience, or money to allow me to degree their camshafts upon install (motor in the car). Sure, I can install cams in about an hour and make some quick money and send someone on their way. But I wont do it. Im fine with that. My reputation for care, professionalism, and having a do-it-right-the-first-time attitude precedes any income I make from this sport.