Hi everyone,

I drive a 1996 Honda Civic hatchback.

Since my dealer would ask about $ 600 for this one, I'm going to do it myself. I'm also changing the discs and pads as the discs are warped. The last thing I want is to forget something essential so please lend me a hand here.

I'm in the loop about what to do until I need to disconnect the brake hose. With what do you plug it? Also, the banjo bolt has washers, they need to be replaced right?

After everything is put back together what do I need to do to test to see whether it all works correctly?

1. I'm sure I need to pump the brakes. Do I start the car first before I pump them?
2. For sake of visual inspection, is there something to check before putting the tyres on?
3. Do I need to bleed the brakes? For clarity, only the one where I disconnected the brake hose (I'm only replacing the left front caliper).
4. Any other small things like washers I need to replace?

If there is anything very important I must not forget, please mention this. I do not want to be overtaken by my own front weel

Cheers,
Jeroen

 

yes you will need to replace the washers and don't remove the old caliper till your ready to swap the line onto the new caliper. then once its all back together you will need somebody to pump the pedal . then well they hold it down open the bleeder screw and then close it before your friend releases the pedal (some clear line and a contaner with some brake fluid in it will keep it cleaner and make it easyer to tell when all the air is out . a good repair manuel might be a good investment

 

Sounds like you need to get yourself a manual and read about what you need to do.
You are going to be messing about with your brakes you need to be sure you know what you are doing.

 

Don't worry I've got a Haynes repair manual but it is a little unclear at times.
It is the first time I attempt a repair and since it is the brakes I'm a tad nervous

It sounds I've got the theory down though. Let's hope it will all go smoothly.

 

just let it drain out... u need to replace it anyway...

 

Judging from the color, the brake fluid is still good. I think it got swapped out only 6 months ago.

 

yeah but cracking that bolt loose, reguardless of how long u have the line off for, lets air into ur brake lines. brake fluid+air=aeration=spongy pedal...

 

I'm with you on that. But I'll bleed some out, not replace everything. If I'd do it a lot, I'd buy a vacuum pump but it's just to save some hard earned cash I'm repairing it myself now.

 

i didn't mean let it all run out lol. i meant that as it don't worry about the little bit ull lose while switching the line to the other caliper.. then u obviously gotta bleed it til u see no air coming out with it. i didn't mean bleed the entire system. sorry was my mistake

 

No worries, I probably misunderstood.

One small question though, how can I check whether the caliper piston sticks? Sure the dealer diagnosed it as such but I'd like to see for myself too.

 

Look at it. Brakes are not as hard as you're making them out to be.

 

If the piston won't push back in easily, it sticks. Also, usually the slides are sticking...not the piston. Make sure you check the slide pins.

If they're stuck, you'll need to force them out. I use a vice grip clamped on the head of the slide pin. I rotate the vice grip back and forth while pulling the slide pin out simultaneously. You might need to heat the bracket with a mapp gas torch. New slide pins/boots might be in order if its real bad...or if the boots melt.

Most times, you can get away with wire brushing and re greasing the slide pin with caliper/wheel bearing grease.
Clean the female (bracket) side with a coarse pipe cleaner or male battery terminal wire brush. Flush out with brake clean before inserting the new/regreased pin.

 

Not sure how you SEE a stuck piston. Brakes aren't difficult, but asking the right questions is better than sailing into a ditch.

 

"Look" as in inspect it. As in don't just sit there and wonder if your piston is stuck or not.