I did a non-abs conversion on my DA (91 integra). Ended up having to swap out the calipers for a new (used) set because I screwed one up by poking a little too hard into the bleeder screw's hole. Yeh, don't do that. Anyways that particular caliper was seizing, so I replaced both fronts and hooked it all back up. My brakes are still seizing up though. I literally have to use a 10 mil wrench to loosen the front brake lines in order to drive (eventually).

Can someone shoot me a list of reason why this may occur? There are too many directions to choose from, I mean the majority of the braking system has been swapped out at this point. I can detail if it's deemed necessary, but would like to get this thread going and have little time at the moment.

Was also wondering if the brake booster can keep the brakes applied if you use the wrong type of vacuum hose? I noticed it has some strange things inside of it, and had to use a (cut down) double of one side of the vacuum hose (from two different DAs). Shouldn't matter that I have a GSR Manifold should it?

Can air in the system cause the brakes to seize? I've only heard of the opposite.

 

ttt

 

Check the adjustmest screw on the back of the brake pedal, we did the same swap on my friends dc and ran into the same problem. Once we ran through all the same **** you have we tried loosening that adjustment and ever since has worked perfectly

 

wow thanks for that info. would've never made it there on my own accord. Will try that first thing tomorrow and post back what happens here.

 

The push rod adjustments for the booster and master cylinder can also cause this. I'm assuming that these were swapped as well.

 

swapped the master cylinder with an ITR one... about to go fangle around and see if typerfit is right.

 

Was the original MC a 1" bore? I do not know of the swap compatibility, but it sounds like you didn't adjust the push rod.

 

Adjust booster pushrod freeplay, some of the replacement MC's (or swaps) have different engagement lengths, which will cause this.

At the wheel end, a collapsed brake hose will cause this, as will a stuck caliper piston, but the above sounds most likely.

 

So what ended up happening. Did you get the problem resolved?

 

It appears that yall are all correct about the master cylinder/push rod combination. I've loosened the master cylinder a few turns on each bolt (to be even) and that seems to have resolved the problem in the present, although the brakes still seem to drag ever so very slightly. I don't know what type of tool to use to loosen that weird star nut to unlock the pedal adjustment nut though, so I may just leave it with the master cylinder as it is.

I'm tempted to just switch the MC to the original one, which was an ABS MC (supposed to be 1" vs non-abs being 7/8ths?), and should be set correctly with this pedal (as it's the original). The guy i bought the swap off of included this master cylinder, which is a Type-R MC from Advanced, which he said was supposed to be better. I'm not so sure that's true now haha.

Can someone clarify on this so I can decide which direction to go with the MCs? I need to know whether I'd be better off with the Type-R vs the original ABS MC. My two concerns are, is the Type-R MC in some way better, as my friend seemed to think? Is it smaller? Is the ABS MC bigger? If it is bigger, would it be better to use the non-abs MC (smaller, Type-R), so that my brakes would be less likely to lock up? Or will the bigger provide for faster, safer braking?

I still need to buy a couple of custom lines, as my self made ones are leaking, still. So I will be taking apart and bleeding the brake system again regardless.

I would love some good answers to those questions. By the way, thank you all so very much for making my day better, (and in the process making me feel dumb I knew the MC shouldn't have provided that much resistance in those last few mms to flush with the brake booster)

 

Bump

 

Does the booster rod push against the MC?
Make sure your MC and booster are matched.
Some combinations will preload the MC, replicating a partial brake condition.
This can't be adjusted at the pedal.

 

not sure... i may look. The booster is a DA booster and the MC is type r. Any idea?

Also heard I need to change the hoses going to the calipers, as it's a twenty year old car and the car sat for over a year without the brake lines attached. The argument being that moisture separates the liner between the inner and outer rubber on the hoses. Any one want to second this?

 

DA, ABS in fact.... wondering now if abs/non-abs are so easily swappable...

 

Changed out front and back hoses. The dragging continues. Trying to find my old abs master cylinder to swap that back on and see if that fixes.

 

Check this out:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...djustment.html

 

The adjustment nut is either a 12 or 14mm 12 point, cannot remember at the moment.

Check brake pedal free play, it should wiggle about a 1/4 of an inch, if its solid or takes ANY force to wiggle the pedal, you need to adjust the booster pushrod in so that it does not touch the master cylinder, and that you have the 1/4 inch gap stated.

 

Someone genius who likes Dodge Neons suggested I take the MC completely off and see if that relieves brake pressure to find out if it was the pedal adjustment for sure. Sure enough, that's what it is. Thanks for the link, Gekko (to show me what's involved step by step and how much I don't want to do that) and thanks for the exacting answer, slowcivic2k (especially the emphasis on "if its solid or takes ANY force to wiggle the pedal, you need to adjust the booster pushrod").

Now I just need to find out if there are any advantages of a Type-R reman MC over a stock DA MC. (If there isn't I'm gonna just go get another DA one as spending a few hours adjusting my pedal push rod don't sound too appetizing.)