The end all trans fluid thread.
Torco MTF daily driver great for everything, Torco RTF high power, drag, and road race. Some customers do prefer the RTF for daily though due to shifter feel.
Old formula Honda MTF was my favorite fro a long time. I actually stock piled it once I found out they were changing formula. Now that its gone ive been trying lots of different stuff. Pennsoil synchro, cheap 10w-30, High mileage 10w-30, new Honda mtf etc. Right now Im using rotella 10w-30 and like it.
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EDIT: Making my statement more specific.
Last edited by Honda Bull; Apr 25, 2011 at 09:29 AM.
after taking apart 2 transmissions now that I used the motul in I would say that there is no way this stuff is bad for the syncros. In 1 trans i installed brand new syncros and put around 10k miles on and after inspection everything still looked brand new
I have never used Motul 75W90 gear oil but I have seen plenty of Honda transmissions over the years with shift problems from running other brands of 75W90 gear oil. Thicker isn't always better, especially in a Honda/Acura transmission. The Honda gear box is designed to operate using MTF with a viscosity of about 30W. Use whatever brand you like but stay away from the thick stuff.
the only thing i was told to stay away from for the hondas is synthetic.
motul 75w90 isn't incredibly thick, im pretty sure its designed for a synchronous trans. i think the problem is that ratings aren't very consistent between all manufactures
they list compatibility as
Compatibility
All gearboxes without wet clutches & hypoid rear axles without LSD
motul 75w90 isn't incredibly thick, im pretty sure its designed for a synchronous trans. i think the problem is that ratings aren't very consistent between all manufactures
they list compatibility as
Compatibility
All gearboxes without wet clutches & hypoid rear axles without LSD
Did you ask the person why? Because synthetics almost always have detergents in them, in addition to magnesium and calcium, to keep everything clean, which is a good thing for transmission (or engine) operation. Conventional oils don't keep things clean like synthetics do... and I have yet to see any of the synthetic MTFs impair synchronizer operation.
Use Honda MTF or GM/Penzoil Synchromesh and /thread.
If you have problems after a fresh fluid change you have something wrong with the damn transmission.
[Besides the fact that gear oil isn't rated the same as engine oil.... 75w90 gear oil is more like a 10w40 engine oil. Yes It has a higher viscosity, but if everything in the transmission is in working order then it's just going to make everything work harder.]
Use what it was designed for unless you have something built to custom tolerances. If you know enough to do that, then you can pick your own oil without a thread to tell you so.
Edit: Missed Honda_Bulls post. Being repetitive.
If you have problems after a fresh fluid change you have something wrong with the damn transmission.
[Besides the fact that gear oil isn't rated the same as engine oil.... 75w90 gear oil is more like a 10w40 engine oil. Yes It has a higher viscosity, but if everything in the transmission is in working order then it's just going to make everything work harder.]
Use what it was designed for unless you have something built to custom tolerances. If you know enough to do that, then you can pick your own oil without a thread to tell you so.
Edit: Missed Honda_Bulls post. Being repetitive.
Except Honda MTF will cause problems if its anything but a DD that doesn't get beat on.
You know under performance driving the fluid will hit 300*F+ without a trans cooler...
You know under performance driving the fluid will hit 300*F+ without a trans cooler...
If the car is used as a autox or circuit car then that would fall under my reasoning to run something else, but for the street and occasional drag track use, just changing it a little more frequently would be equally as effective. Not everyone is taking a 500whp+ B/D/H/F/K to the track every weekend for run after run after run.
My cars are daily drivers that see the drag track occasionally. I personally have never had an issue with either of my b-series transmissions in the 7 years I've had them. These transmissions were used on various B20V and turbo setups between 160 and 340whp. YMMV. *shrug*
It's the same as the oil weight argument really. There probably isn't a "correct" answer. It's really going to depend on what you're using it for, how much $$ and time you have to work with, how frequently you want to change it. Etc etc.
Work on as many transmissions as myself and Synchrotech do and you will see why we don't like it for anything but daily drivers. If you know its going to cause more wear under any kind of performance driving, why run it?




