specs:
.003 step deck, std. dart block, sleeves are 100% flat.

cometic head gasket

gsr head is milled 100% flat and polished.

arp head studs with molylube torqued to 95ft

car is making 518hp at 20psi

if i do a 3rd-4th gear pull i can log my temps starting at 199 and creeps up to 205-214 and it will spray a small amount on coolant out of the over flow.

this will be the 3rd head gasket leaking under boost now and its getting old replacing it



so the question is... is there any thing im missing you need to change on a dart block from the factory.

are people running 1/2 inch studs?

and some pics to get an idea what the setup is, any help would be great, thanks.

 

use a OEM honda gasket...get new headstuds as you over torqued them.

 

Yeah 96ftlbs is to tight and you probably made them weaker from to much stretch. get a new set and torque to the specs given for the studs you buy with the moly lube. Golden eagle studs i personally like over the arp's aebs are nice too. I like that the studs dont bottom out on threds like the arp's. oem gasket too like stated above

 

I am not a 100% sure but I think a step deck is not good with cometic gaskets.

 

i run a dart block and the only issue was it needed honda bond on the gasket cause it was leaking in front under the turbo manifold. took it back apart and new cometic head gasket with honda bond works perfect have like 2000 miles on it at 400whp 12psi just breaking the motor in

 

its an 84mm bore. what honda gasket would you use. also do you run .5 larger than the bore?

 

i had the same problem at 85ftlbs. thats why i cranked them down this time. the car is also running aem cop and e85 with 15 deg. of timing...

 

if you need a 84mm bore OEM gasket contact golden eagle. also i had good luck with their headstuds as well....

 

do you guys run .5 over bore size? also running a step over flat. good or bad?

 

at .5 mm over OEM HG is FINE... I ran a OEM at 87.5 (.5 over) for 3 years and made 650 WHP on it.


Im at 89mm now (2 over, H22) and the GE gasket I chose (based on it being a moded "OEM" supposedly) crapped itself. The bores were honed or enlarged poorly (visibly off center) and the fire ring compromised. Had seal issues from jump. Had a cometic MLS shipped out (The MLS Cometics are money, NOT the composit ones) and it was a WAY nicer MFGed one than I got from GE, now Im not on the GE bashing bandwagon as their sleeves are fantastic and i run them, but the Cometic MLS gasket was MFGed WAY better IMO.

Motor makes 750.

Sleeves can have a step and it definitely shouldnt be an issue. GE spec is .003. I have my block checked for step everytime. I too replaced my studs this time just because theyre old and have been used a fe times. But 5 pounds over aint going to kill them. TQING THE **** OUT OF THEM IS NOT THE SOLUTION THOUGH... Did you have the block hfcor flatness too?


Take it for what its worth. If youre using the Cometic MLS and TQing to spec (I go 5 over on ARPs)... and you are pushing coolant, You have something else going on.

 

do you think a 84.5mm head gasket would work better compared to an 84mm. it is bored to 84. what are you running for timing at wot.

 

so i guess the real question is...

step or flat?
golden eagle or arp?
.5 over bore size and what headgasket or o rings?
is 15deg of timing to much with AEM COP?

i just really want to get this problem fixed.

 

Step or flat depends on what SLEEVES are in it my man. Do whatever they suggest. Orininging is always an option, but if the blocks step isnt flat, youre f ed.

 

you cant o-ring a dart block....go step deck...mines was built or 1000whp..and it as step decked..cause couldnt o-ring it cause of the shape of the sleeves

 

my GE sleeved b20 block has a step deck. im running the GE 84mm gasket and GE headstuds. no issues. GE will make you what ever bore size you want. 81-86mm in .5mm increments.

i used to run a OEM 84mm gasket with ARP studs and i was having some coolant mixing issues. im not sure if it was the gasket or the studs but the issue went away when i went with GE studs and gasket.

 

Id bet it wasnt the gasket.

The OEM gasket would have sealed BETTER than the GE at that bore. Probably prep/install. or the studs being tired and stretched..

When you start getting to where youre approaching the limit of the sleeve for bore, In my experience is the MLS cometic is the way to go. I wish I had pics of it vs the GE I received... To the naked eye it was READILY appearant the GE wasnt located well when bored out.

I wasnt happy from jump with it. The cometic MLS as mentioned is a MUCH better finished product

 

oem headgasket and 1/2" head studs and that thing shouldnt lift ever again.

 

i just called cometic today, they said flat deck and run 85mm on an 84 bore. make sense?

 

but should i really need 1/2 inch studs only making 500whp? i see 900 on arps not having problems. but i do like the idea...

 

no you shouldnt....i would try an oem headgasket with some new arp studs torqued to spec
im amazed you didnt rip the threads out of the block at 95ft lbs on the studs

 

as for the head gasket size and step deck what are your thoughts?

 

I'm having the same issues as you, but on a sohc. Darton MID sleeves, OEM head gasket, and ARP studs. I've been told by a few people to play with the timing as they don't believe it's related to sleeves, head gasket, or studs (3 new sets all torqued within 5 ft/lbs of ARP specs).

 

what size head gasket compared to bore are you running?

 

It's OEM right from the local Honda dealership, so 75mm. My bore is 75.5mm.

I don't know for sure, but I wouldn't think you would want to run a larger hg bore than what your cylinder bore is...

 

also try copper spray on the headgasket...and run ge headstuds instead of arps....thats what tony,miller and many other making over 800whp are running...