f22b boosted 9lbs it wont go past 5k with out a really bad fuel cut it only started doing this after i put new trans in and now check engine light stays on.... It does this with and with out boost so idk what it could be ANYHELP THANKS

 

check your ground wire to your tranny? a bad ground will make any motor run shitty. hell i swapped this motor in my accord from a usdmf22b1 and i had the hardest time to get it to run right something was always effed up on it. Good Luck!

 

Which code is it and do you have 2-step/anti-lag on your ecu?

 

Have not checked the codes and yes has 2 step

 

I been readin up on limp mode but idk seems not to always stay at 5 grand will go over i guess ill half to run the codes its throwin

 

Why do you say it has a fuel cut? What does your air fuel ratio look like?

What injectors are you running and did you have your setup tuned on a dyno?

 

im not sure if it is a fuel cut now i was thinkin the tune was bad but then i got a new boost gauge and it reads perfect 9lbs everytime and i ran it without the boost and it still likes to stop at 5k im runnin black top 450cc injectors and the tune was done by Ycunderground.com

 

And i just tryed to unlook neg battery cable and ECU Fuse but still as soon as it starts not 5 sec later BAM engine light

 

Jump the SCS connector under the glove box and read the CEL flash codes. Or if you already know what codes it's throwing post them up.

 

I gotta take it to autozone or something cause i cant find anyone with a obd1 code reader

 

Use yourself to read the codes.

 

Wish i could

 

Jump the 2 pin orange connector under the pass side kick panal and turn the ignition to on, then count the flashes on the cel its like morse code kinda

 

Read the codes from the ECU and trouble shoot accordingly.

Self diagnosis is done the same way as on the Civic's & Teg's. I have done it more than a few times myself. There is a blue 2pin/wire connector attached under your glove box/side of the passenger footwell. That is the one that you short to do the SCS self diagnostics.

This is the procedure I used for my 96 Accord.


Here is the blue plastic retainer that is connected to the chassis. The connector is sitting inside this plastic retainer/bracket. (may not be the exact bracket on the 94-95)


This is the two pin connector removed from the retainer. Showing the two female pins where you are to stick the ends of the paper clip or wire.

 

Imma Try it sounds confusing to me really

 

Well i found the one put the paper clip in and turned key on and my engine light just never stoped flashing i got to 80 and quit count

 

Or i think it does it 4 times then goes off for like 3 sec and does it 4 times again over and over same pattern

 

There can be a series of flashes. How many depends on how many codes are stored on the ECU'.

That same pattern that repeats itself between the pauses is what your looking for. The flashing will continue for as long as you have the connector jumped. It will keep replaying the same error codes.

long flash = tens position (first digit)
short flach = ones position (second digit)
3 second pause = signifies the start of the next code.

You could see something like this flashing at you,
long-long-long-short-short-pause-short-short-short-short-pause-long-long-short-short-pause and if that was the last of the new codes it will continue right back at the start.

 

So should i right it down to remember all the ****

 

You could try getting a manual.