what all is needed to put a NSX alternator on D series? search came up with use the original(to engine) pully and to use a spacer(stacked washers?) on one of the bolts...

anybody on here done this?

what year NSX alternator do i need? one guy said 92-94 but that would be OBD1 which means that the little plug would be different?


searching about honda sh*t is confusing, so much misinformation it's hard to tell what's true...

 

Why would you want to use an NSX alternator?

 

60amp vs 110amp
and it's OEM not some aftermarket garbage

 

Ok, that's what you car uses/requires from factory. Right? Why would you need more? You could use a newer civic alternator (92-95) which have 70aml alternators. Not that you really need it.

 

i have a sound system that causes bad light dimming when the subwoofer hits. i also have a 115v/300amp power inverter for camping... and will have some nice fogs sometime soon too... my electrical system gets to see a lot of strain

i am thinking i can run a NSX alternator then a secondary battery in the rear, probably something like a pc680 or a MC/tractor battery.

 

b20 alternators are alot easier to swap and make almost as much power.

 

which B20, prelude or CRV?

 

Well I don't think you need to worry about lights dimming while camping, right? As for driving have you thought about picking up a cheap capacitor for your sound system?

http://www.electronixwarehouse.com/c...capacitors.htm

 

caps don't help my problem, a cap just allows power to be more instant and slightly stronger to the amp. it barley effects the rest of the chassis.
some of the higher end caps that are pretty much a mini battery that doesn't hold any charge if shorted/drained rapidly, a mini battery would hold a little bit of power... the advantage of a capacitor is it can dump all of it's power in less then a second...
i am just going to run a sealed mini battery in the back


i did just find a reasonably priced 130amp alternator on egay designed for 89-95 civics so i think that's what will probably go with

 

CRV

 

ooooooooh. electronically schooled lol . u are correct. caps wont do anything for u. i would get a better grounding system and re do all!!!!!!!! of ur grounds. my friend has 3 15" mtx subs and two big *** amps and we were having the same problem. i seen the voltage was way too high on the grounds. so he got a voltage stabilizer and we re did all of his ground with a thicker gauge wire and then grounded them all to good secure grounds and it solved the prob, that was a mild system tho. on a highend system (since u already spent the $$) u might as well spend the $$ on a good alt. /Rant

 

umm... i had a 15" cerwin vega subwoofer with a 3600 watt amp, and a head unit that did 60W per channel and i had a single 1 farad cap in my 92 accord and it didnt harm my lighting at all. a capacitor seems to work fine with my stereos.

or maybe i was on meth and just imagining it?

 

i do need to get 0awg under the hood but my local guy sells it(the kicker i usually run) for $6 a foot...

right now my grounds are kicker hyperflex 4awg and the alternator is stinger 4awg(cheap sh*t)

i think i may order some 0awg Kolossus Fleks Kable(slightly cheaper alternative to kicker hyperflex)

my setup tested that my sub was getting 175w peak(weak sh*t) with 8ohms of resistance(old school MTX)... if it was 4ohm it would be 350w or 700w at 2ohm...
overall it's a pretty weak setup

edit
i just re sanded the main chassis ground, now the deck doesn't reset itself when the headlights are on... everything else is still pretty weak