Pele

Needed a winter beater and found an acceptably priced RT4WD with a stock D16A6. Alternator was seized up. Time to go shopping.
Stock Alternator is 70 Amps.

Local pick and pull has plenty of 94-95 B18 Integras...
90 Amp units in there.

Side by side comparison:
D16 alternator is OBD-0, B18 alternator is OBD-1... Same wiring connector.
D16 alternator has a 3 rib pulley. B18 alternator has a 4 rib pulley... Easy swap with a strap wrench and impact.
D16 alternator has a threaded top bolt hole. B18 alternator is not threaded... Easily solved; Tap and die or use a nut.

The D16 alternator is physically smaller than the B18.
The D16 alternator has its mounting ears centered. The B18 mounting ears are offset.

Wat Do?

Marcos Barrios

well a few years ago i did this to my crx si d16a6 motor
and the b series alt worked but i remember that i could only have the bottom bolt on because the top bolt wouldnt fit

but then again i think it was just because of the upper bracket, the one that you can slide the top of the alt bolt on
i feel like if you use the b series one it just might work

Pele

So this is how I installed a 1995 Acura Integra (90 amp unit off of a B18C1 engine) in place of the original alternator (A 60 amp unit off of a D16A6) in my 1991 Honda Civic RT4WD Wagon.

I remember dropping the exhaust to wiggle the alternator out from underneath my old 1985 4WD Civic Wagon... No such luck on this car. The subframe is different and it has power steering.
I found that the brake lines have enough flex on them to allow the brake master cylinder to move out of the way giving PLENTY of room to extract and replace the alternator.



You can see the melted bits of belt on my old alternator's pulley. It's seized up tight. You can also see that the Integra alternator is quite a bit larger.
I found it at the scrapyard. It was recently rebuilt and tested good.



The adjuster mounting ear is also further out. No worries, the adjuster on the D-Series pivots on one bolt. I'll just have to tap the new alternator.



The mounting bosses are the same length. This means that it'll bolt into the bottom bracket on the D-Series engine with no mods.



The pulley depths line up, so that means that the stock belt will work.



The Integra Alternator is obviously from a more high performance car. The B18C1 engine redlines at 8000 RPM. As such, to protect the alternator, it has a larger pulley to turn the alternator slower.
The D16A6 engine in the Civic redlines at 6500 and it'll spend a lot of time in traffic. I want the smaller pulley to spin the alternator at lower engine speeds.
Unfortunately, the Integra alternator shaft is larger.



Luckily, I have access to a lathe at work. I'm sure a machine shop would charge less than $20 for this service. Took me 15 minutes to bore out the pulley.



After I did the machine work on the pulley, I hit it with the sand blaster to get the rust and crud off. To prevent rust I needed to paint it, but I didn't have any black. I did have some leftover spray paint when I had to touch up the door on my old Dodge Diesel Truck... Dark Garnet Red. Too bad it'll be buried in an engine bay. Zip the pulley on with a 22mm socket and an impact.



Then tap out the adjustment boss with an M8 x 1.25 thread repair kit.



Installation is the reverse of removal.

I'll leave the 60 Amp fuse and wiring in for the time being until I get around to upgrading it.

Pele

WTF? Y U No show pics?

Pics are here:
http://imgur.com/a/iuRPy

v4lu3s

i think i just went with the 80amp obd2 alternator and swapped plugs, direct bolt in like stock. 90 amps would be nicer though, but for $15 i wasnt complaining.

Pele

Yep... $20 scrapyard alternator, freshly rebuilt and tested good.
I didn't even have to crawl around under a car and pull the damn thing, they had this one sitting on a shelf.