So I went to Nappa and googled on my phone plugs for a b16a and on NGk's website it came up bkr6e-N-11, Nappa didnt have those so I had him look up a 99-00 Civic Si and it came up as NGK ZFR5F-11 so thats what I got from Nappa.

Are the Zfr5-11 the correct plugs?

If not what motor are they for cause im going to return them?

Thanks

 

should be a 6 range plug. napa's catalogs are weird. they show a d series for an em1.
bkr6e would be correct.

 

There just generic ngk plugs, you can use them....

 

Umm.. No. those are too hot, even for a B16. those are for Honda D-series and F22 Accord motors as a 5-range plug.. Send those damn things back, and Get a good NGK plug
5553, BKR6ES-11 used for the GS-R for those with low mods.

You will detonate with that NGK ZFR5F-11

Napa unfortunately can be idiots for imports about 70% of the time

 

Those are also b18a/b, b20b/z plugs.
Try sparkplugs.com

The plugs you want are bkr6e.
The bkr6e-11 are the same plugs just pregapped. The (-11) denotes there pregapping (.44).
Its better to gap yourself anyway. You want as large of a gap as possible without misfiring, for a larger flame travel/better burn.
Start high (.70) and work your way down until you're not misfiring.

Whatever you do, stay away from the iridium equivalent (bkr6eix). I hate those plugs. I've had them misfire out of the damn box 3 times. And they don't last as long. The (ix) in the part number (bkr6eix) denotes iridium.

 

I saw they were used in other hondas, I didn't think it was that specific...

Comment retracted

 

Just order plugs from xeoncron i dont fool with idiots anymore when it comes to spark plugs.

 

I told him that i wanted the BKR6ES-11 and they said they didn't have any in stock and couldnt orderd them from the warehouse and none at any other stores, So basicaly they dont carry them, He said these is what came up on 99-00 Civic SI...

Then I asked for a 99-00 Gsr and he got the same plugs. I hate our Nappa im going to call Advanced Auto in the morning and see if they have them and return these plugs to Nappa.

Whats the Gap suppose to be set it .40 or .44?

 

Just get bkr7e-11 and call it a day...

 

By the time you go through all that. you could have saved gas and gone through xenocron or sparkplugs.com and been done with it already. Unless cash is your only option. I stopped messing around with local stores (except a specifc one geared to Japanese and European Autos) when it came to these parts.

 

i just go in with part numbers now. in my case they're 4644 (bkr7e).

 

I think the guy at nappa was a retard and didnt want to help. I went in there yesterday returned the plugs and talked to a different guy and he found the bkr6e-11 plugs no issue and i got $3.00 back in return.

I put the plugs on the gaping tool and it showed .39 so i opended them up to .44/.45

 

chain parts stores tend to have a hard time with the part number and aren't familiar enough with the numbering system to find another option that will work. I've included the stock number in brackets as it may be easier to find that way.

Here's all the listings for the 00 si: http://sparkplugs.com/results_app.as...1&AAIA=1363025

PFR6L-13 (3141) was the OE plug on 99-00 DOHC, they were double platinum plugs.

BKR6E-11 (2756) would be the standard nickel equivalent in the stock heat range
BKR7E-11 (5791) would be 1 step colder (if you've added 75-100hp in mods).

Can anyone confirm what they vehicle gap setting should be? There's a conflict as to whether its .044" or .052".

The -11 plugs come factory set at around .043". The standard BKR6E is set around .031" out of the box. You should only gap a plug + or - .008" out of the box or the electrodes won't line up. Unless you've added some mods that have changed the air/fuel ratio or engine temps the vehicle recommended gap setting will run best.

If you've added mods that have increased hp, closing the gap down will help the plug ignite properly in the denser air/fuel mixture.

 

I've always been taught the larger the gap you can safely run (without misfiring) the better. Interesting. Care to explain why tighter would be better? I would tend to believe an increased distance between the electrode and ground would create a better burn, due to the longer arc.
this is also a common theory among successful builders/racers/pros/teams, etc.

 

you are correct. The perfect gap setting would be wide enough to expose the spark kernel to as much of the air/fuel mixture as possible, while still having the highest ignition success rate as possible. But, too wide a gap will not be able to ignite properly and will result in misfires. Too little gap will result in misfires as well, along with detonation and potentially engine damage.

On a stock engine you can certainly try to open the gap beyond the vehicle recommended settings, but most users find the best results at the factory gap.

In a situation where modifications have raised the compression, or done anything to make the air/fuel ratio denser, the stock gap would have a hard time igniting as it has to work harder, and needs to be closed down for success. But there are mods you can perform to offset this, allowing you to open the gap back up.

Finding the proper gap setting is crucial to engine performance, power and gas mileage. And unfortunately, once you start modifying the engine, its really a guessing game that requires playing around with the gap to find that sweet spot.

 

Thank you for the clarification. I usually achieve a gap in the .60 to .70 range on the builds that are commonly seen in this forum I.e larger bores, more stroke, higher compression (12:1+) as well as increased airflow and velocity as well as fueling. I like to gap .05 below the threshold where misfiring ceases. This is to accommodate for normal wear.

 

use measurements we use, some people who can't convert or add might get mixed up..

for 12.1+ CR i usually start @ .035.
Stock motors usually like the .044 or .042..

FI cars i tend to start @ .032 and work my way down, higher boosted cars tend to like .028-.020..

 

For higher compression I go bigger. Works good for me.

 

Not just my motor, but other 12.5+ motors i've seen like .035 or .032.

i also too, try to run bigger, but i find this works just as well.

 

What's your definition of what the motor "likes"?
Are you referring to Dyno numbers or a point where it isn't misfiring?
because a larger gap is definitely more beneficial. I work on the same high compression motors you do. Usually 12+ compression motors with all the supporting mods and tuning.

There's plenty of literature available supporting the bigger the better theory. A bad grounding system can affect plug gap, as well as a weak or deteriorating spark. Maybe these are some reasons your motors "like" that tight gap, I dunno.

And I was using the same scale as you, I missed a zero. My apologies.

 

Just watching out for the kids who search threads like these and see the numbers.

I'm speaking along the lines of how the plug talks to me, depending on whether or not it is in fact detonating or not, turbo cars that i tune, i have a certain range in which i start at, and i try to make sure i have a max and min on plug gap that i use, before i actually start fooling with the ign tables themselves, been doing it for so long that i know when something is fishy and out of wack on the tables .. lol

 

Yah no problem. There is NO universal gap on modified motors. Its trial and error. You'll know if the gap is too tight or too large if its misfiring/sputtering/hesitating. The range at which a plug can run properly may be .021-.066 on one motor and .015-.058 on the next motor. Anywhere outside of that range in either direction and youve reached the threshold and you're misfiring. Im sure everyone knows what a misfire is.

Its really not hard to find a good gap. Start large. Test drive. If you have misfires, tighten gap .005. Rinse and repeat.

There's one more trick for spark plugs too.

Im going to test the gap and another trick I know on the Dyno. Probably later this month. Ill test standard gap as well as the largest gap I can get without misfires and go from there.

 

hmm ok what gap for 2.0 with compression around 10.8:1-11:1 range

 

Read what I posted. I layed out the process for you. If you can't handle that then just leave them at oem spec.