steel or aluminum IC piping?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 774
Likes: 0
From: knockin boots in, Ohiooooo, USA
what are most of you shop using for intercooler piping? you guys using Steel or aluminum. you make it or do you just order "pre bent kits"
^
Aluminum. Buy the bends and weld them together. Custom IC piping is the only way to go on a lot of cars unless you're buying a complete manifold/turbo/IC piping kit.
I'd personally never run steel for IC piping either. Considerably heavier and doesn't get rid of heat anywhere near as well as aluminum.
Aluminum. Buy the bends and weld them together. Custom IC piping is the only way to go on a lot of cars unless you're buying a complete manifold/turbo/IC piping kit.
I'd personally never run steel for IC piping either. Considerably heavier and doesn't get rid of heat anywhere near as well as aluminum.
i find the aluminum is kind of dinky at times and bends when t-bolt clamped too tightly.
i like stainless steel for charge piping. only downside is that its heavier than aluminum.
i like stainless steel for charge piping. only downside is that its heavier than aluminum.
Had stainless 2.5" until recently. Changed over to 3" aluminum. Bought mandrel bends and a buddy who welds real well tig'd it up.
I also got my piping from them and agree completely. Price is right and quality material. Welded good and was a good wall thickness.
I also got my piping from them and agree completely. Price is right and quality material. Welded good and was a good wall thickness.
Trending Topics
That's right that steel does not dissipate heat as well, but that can be a good thing. Aluminum absorbs and releases the heat in the air going into the motor. So if there is a lot pipe next to heat sources the motor will get a cooler air charge with the steel. But if say you have a lot of pipe next to cool air (like those V8s with the turbos in the back of the car) then aluminum might be the better choice.
Last edited by jere; Apr 13, 2011 at 02:37 PM.
Stainless is brute, if its rubbing on the frame somewhere it wont get a hole in it, and it doesnt smash with tbolt clamps... just get a thin gauge of 304 stainless and rock that out.. also better for bungs and such, easy to weld to and find bungs that wont strip out.
Aluminum.
Also, if you do buy eBay material be aware that there seems to be two different main makers. There's some that don't have bead rolled ends but have extremely thin material. Then there's another that has 1/16" thick tubing which is plenty strong for clamping on. That said def make sure there's no alignment issues. I often use my tig to run a bead around the pipe that doesn't have a bead on it or just weld the pipes together. Much less likely to leak but if its in an area of very high vibration or has poor fitment, silicone all the way.
Also, if you do buy eBay material be aware that there seems to be two different main makers. There's some that don't have bead rolled ends but have extremely thin material. Then there's another that has 1/16" thick tubing which is plenty strong for clamping on. That said def make sure there's no alignment issues. I often use my tig to run a bead around the pipe that doesn't have a bead on it or just weld the pipes together. Much less likely to leak but if its in an area of very high vibration or has poor fitment, silicone all the way.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Snafu-Si
Forced Induction
5
Feb 12, 2003 12:27 PM




