Its a '95 EJ2 with a D15B7. When I bought the car the guy told me they both needed to be changed so I went and bought both. NGK plugs, duralast wires. When I first started I didn't khave anything to get the plugs out so I just changed the wires. Car started and ran fine. A friend came over and undid the wires to try and do the plugs but couldn't do it so we just put the wires back in and tried to start it with no luck. Thought the firing order was wrong so I did it myself with the right order, still no luck. I figured the plugs needed to be changed so I got them changed the next morning And still nothing. The car turns over and is getting fuel but it won't start. Checked the distributor cap but I can't see anything wrong with it and have no idea what else to check that would keep it from starting.

 

Does the fuel pump prime? Is spark absent at the plugs?

Double check the firing order of the plug wires on the cap. The cylinders are ordered 4-3-2-1 from the distributor to the timing belt.

Also test the coil.

 

I checked the coil and the plug wires have orange sparks, I was told they were supposed to be blue and I need a new coil pack? I only checked two before I just assumed they would all spark orange.

 

Spark should be bright white. Test the coil.

 

I took it to auto zone And had it tested since I don't have an ohmmeter myself and it had .8 and ~16k

 

Note that the spec primary winding resistance is a very low Ohm reading and that the meter used to measure it has an internal resistance that can lead you to misinterpret the result. In order to avoid this error, you need to read the resistance when touching the two meter probes together and then subtract this Ohm reading from the primary winding reading.

 

Took it back and after subtracting the resistance it came out to .6

 

Hmmm...weak spark is usually caused by a bad coil. What voltage to body ground do you measure at the Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil and igniter unit. Is there any sign of oil contamination or water corrosion inside the distributor or on the wires?

What is the condition of the distributor cap and rotor?

Did you test spark as described at the link in my signature? Does the fuel pump prime?

Is the battery fully charged and cranking the engine strongly?

 

might not be able to explain this correctly but when i changed my plug wires the insulation actually "rolled" is the best way i can describe it. basically the plug-side elongated and it interfered with the plug and the wire didn't make good contact with the tip of the plug. sorry if that didn't make sense.

 

There's no signs of oil or water. I looked at the cap and I didn't see any problems but I took it in just in case and they said its in good condition. I haven't had the rotor looked at. The fuel pump primes and the battery is good. They're telling me it might be the ICM and to bring that in to get tested.

 

Definitely have them test the igniter unit. I don't generally consider a bad igniter unit when there is some spark, albeit weak. The reason is that the igniter unit is just an electrical switch that tells the coil when to release its high voltage spark. Now if you actually have no spark, then a bad igniter unit would make sense.

 

Well, I didn't like how I kept taking apart my distributor and I felt like I was losing things (not sure if I was or not) so I just picked up a new one from the junkyard. Put it in and she started right up. Thanks so much for the help though!