Crank no start killing me! please HELP!!
Target vehicle - 94 accord ex coupe f22b1 sohc vtec
For maintenance reasons I replaced the distributor cap, rotor, and ignition coil. Now I've got a crank no start condition. Ive got fuel to the rail so pump and and main fuel relay are good. I checked for spark and have spark at all 4 plugs. I unplugged the ECU to let it reset, still no start. Map sensor, TPS sensor, both good, no evap codes. Pulling my hair out! If any one has any ideas as to what I missed or should try next I would greatly appreciate it. Please help as I can't get to work.
For maintenance reasons I replaced the distributor cap, rotor, and ignition coil. Now I've got a crank no start condition. Ive got fuel to the rail so pump and and main fuel relay are good. I checked for spark and have spark at all 4 plugs. I unplugged the ECU to let it reset, still no start. Map sensor, TPS sensor, both good, no evap codes. Pulling my hair out! If any one has any ideas as to what I missed or should try next I would greatly appreciate it. Please help as I can't get to work.
so the engine cranks over but does not start??? if you have fuel and ignition both and you know for sure you have enough compression it should start. i personally dont believe you have fuel going through the injectors. check for power at the injectors. whats the story behind this car btw? how many miles are on it?
Did the vehicle run prior to your "maintenance"?
If so, ensure you have the firing order right. Did you test the coil? Try putting the old units back in one by one until it starts to find your culprit.
If so, ensure you have the firing order right. Did you test the coil? Try putting the old units back in one by one until it starts to find your culprit.
No the rotor is not on backwards as it is keyed and will only go on one way. The car has about 210k on it and ran fine prior replacing the parts. And I'm 100% positive that the wires are installed correctly on the cap, I made note of the position of the wires before I removed them. Also, my neighbor double checked for me with a Haynes manual. I had been getting a surging condition at light throttle so I had a shop check the TPS. Their procedure was to disconnect the sensor, back probe it, reconnect, then test with the oscilloscope function on a MODIS. The result of the test confirmed that the TPS is operating normally. I drove the vehicle the 30 minutes across town to the checker auto parts store near my home, purchased the maintenance parts, replaced said parts and then the vehicle won't start. And yes, I have tried every combination of old and new parts to resolve the issue but have had no luck so far. The newest progress update I have is that, at the suggestion of my mechanic, I have replaced the entire distributor. Still without success. I'm thinking he's a parts changer and not a technician. Thank you for the help and thoughts, I'm still very lost and a little more broke.
im sorry, i meant the distributor shaft that goes into the cam. not the rotor. my apologies. sometimes this can be 180° in the wrong way which will completely throw off the firing order and the car will not start. just curious, did you disconnect the ground cable on the battery before you started to work on the car?
I have to agree with the above, if engine will not fire at all, I would confirm that distributor is in correctly.
I would also confirm there is fuel getting into cylinders, [injectors working], start by pulling all the plugs to let cylinders "dry out" in case they are flooded, drop a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder, [just in case they are "washed out", pull fuse for PGM-FI Main Relay, crank engine a few times, reinstall plugs and PGM-FI Main fuse, try and start engine, if no start, pull a spark plug and see if it is "wet" with gas. 94
I would also confirm there is fuel getting into cylinders, [injectors working], start by pulling all the plugs to let cylinders "dry out" in case they are flooded, drop a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder, [just in case they are "washed out", pull fuse for PGM-FI Main Relay, crank engine a few times, reinstall plugs and PGM-FI Main fuse, try and start engine, if no start, pull a spark plug and see if it is "wet" with gas. 94
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wow this is the exact same issue that i am having. i have a 97 prelude 2.2
i have already changed the rotor, cap, wire, icm, coil pack, event my timing belt. i am getting fuel and spark. my assumotion is that i am not getting enough spark. any help will be greatly appreciated.
i have already changed the rotor, cap, wire, icm, coil pack, event my timing belt. i am getting fuel and spark. my assumotion is that i am not getting enough spark. any help will be greatly appreciated.
well, i would like to ask both of you guys to double check for fuel. take the intake tube off and smell for gas at throttle body. actually,fumes should be present after so many times of cranking the motor over. if fuel was getting into the combustion chamber (without spark or correct firing order) you will smell gas. if both of you determined you have adequate spark and its in the correct firing order then you can pretty much assume you are not getting fuel. remember ... you need compression, spark and fuel in order for the engine start.
hope this helps...........i remember when i had my distributor backwards it would try to start and while it was doing this i would see smoke coming out of the throttle body. it sounded like it was running on two cylinders. it kinda makes a galloping sound when you start it???
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