Got a code 15 on my mini me swapped Crx. Going through everything i can think of.
I replaced the Distributor with a known working one and got a brand new ignition switch but still the problem remains. The next thing I could think of is grounds. I have found the following two.
clutch cable bracket
Valve Cover

and I know that there is supposed to be one here


on the thermostat housing I found these two

I guessing the twin black wires is the ground but what is the other

and while I'm asking, where do these go

they are by the back of the block, right by the firewall

And i've heard that code 15 could be cause if a break in a green/yellow wire but don't know where that wire is. Thanks for all your help!

 

Does the motor crank? If it does, its not your grounds. Are all your wires for your alt, distributor, starter all plugged in or screwed on properly.

 

Yeaa, everything was all plugged in

 

I dont have a ton of experience with hondas, but that big black round plug looks like an low oil level sensor, at least thats what they look like on 240sx's.

 

i miss my 240sx. I've got a Altima with the same KA24DE right now giving me fuel injector issues. As for the plug, i have no idea

 

Your injector issues, check cyl 3 haha, all ka's cyl 3 injector dies first, same with SR20's. Sorry for the jack lol.

 

Its actually Cylinder 4 this time. The injector is just dead

 

So does anyone have an idea as to my still problematic code 15?

 

all 4 of those wires are grounds and they connect at the thermostat housing - they are the grounds for the ECU, Main Relay and most of the sensors


code 15 is for the igniter in the distributor - it is the 'fat' white wire in the distributor connector on the DX engine harness - there are 2 white wires in this connector - the igniter wire on the OBD1 distributor is yellow with a green stripe - maybe you have them switched?

 

Alright, so i sanded down the contacts points on the thermostat housing, they can be 1 on top of the other right? As for the wiring I'm gonna have to check the wiring at the distributor and running back to the ECU. This code 15 has been kicking my @$$ for months

 

Alright, so i finally figured out hte code 15, it was some bad wiring connectors. Check back at the ECU and i've got codes
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater

and the car still doesn't run, But i'm thinking it could be the year old gas in it

 

anyone?
I fixed the code 15 but spark is still not there

 

No Spark!
Help!

12.00 Volts to the Spring on the coil
.25 to both the black/yellow and yellow/green in the dizzy

Someone has gotta know


here's what i'm getting with the OHM meter

 

i had the same problem when i did my dpfi to mpfi swap

9 Fix:
that will be 2 wires comeing off the dizzy orange and orange and white i belive if you did a mpfi swap you need to add this to the ecu both are on d plug i belive

10 fix:
peel back the loom of your harrnes on the pass side of your engine harrnes about a foot maybe from the 2 big plugs you should see 2 green with either a white or yellow stripe going to one green with the yellow or white stripe sometimes that factory connection becomes loose and will fall apart i added a ground there from the frame ans soldered it back together its a easy fix you can do the same with a butt end connector but soldering is more permenant

21 fix:
Check that you have vtec wired properly that wire should be the one that goes in to the solinoid its self not the plug. I had both going into the plug and the one wire comeing out grounded was my problem i assumeing that is yours aswell

41 fix
It should just be wireing it sounds like you have a obd1 conv harrnes make sure you have the right power going to the yellow with black stripe it will be the o2 primary is that color

as for the spark issue make sure that the terminals on your spark plug wires do not have any corrotion on them and that they make a good conntact with the cap and the plugs

also the big black plug that was said to e a low oil level is not it is the dpfi knock sensor it does not go to any thing and should hang there

 

thanks for the help =]

 

no problem hope it helped

 

hey my brother has a 90 civic si with the code 15, we put in an ls turbo and the code 15 has been kickin his a$$ for a year now and hes bout to burn the car to the ground! lol u said u fixed the code 15 wut exactly did u do? the car does run, when he drives it sometimes the light kicks on right when he shifts into 2nd sometimes he can make it thru 3rd before it kicks on.

 

if the car is still obd0 you can not use the obd 1 dist. The ecu will not see the pick ups in the obd 1 dist.

 

Your tranny ground looks beat.
Might want to take it off and clean it up - might as well do all of them while you are at it.

I bet your radiator fan doesn't work.

For the black plug and connectors....
Stock engine (black thing in lower right is oil filter).


Since you have a swap it now looks like this... missing the two prong 'sensor'.



The two wires need to be extended the coolant temp switch on the thermostat housing.
The brown connector on your pic
When the water gets too hot, the switch closes and triggers your radiator fan relay to turn the rad fan on.

 

i dont have that problem on my swap and my fan works fine

granted it is always on bbut it works any ideas

 

Your fan doesn't work fine if it's always on. That's not really a good idea as it will run better when the water is allowed to warm up to the ideal temp rather than being kept cooler all the time.

 

ok i figured that any suggestions

 

i converted the harness to obd1 along with the P28 ecu and td42u distributor. Still not getting damn spark. I've searched here, google, d-series.org, b20vtec and everywhere i can think of. And beside getting 12 volts to the coil, should the readings on the rest of the distributor be that low?

Who lives in or near NJ and wants to give me a hand? lol

 

it may be the ecu is fried or the dissy wireing is wrong