Well im finishing up my b20 vtec build and already had skunk2 tuner 3 camshafts degree'd and ready to go. I purchased a set of skunk2 pro 3 camshafts at a great price. which camshafts are better? my car is a DailyDriver(somewhat) I put atleast 20k a year on the car. Im looking for the best Hp above 6krpm any power found below that would be a bonus being that im a drag racer. Can someone provide a Tuner 3 vs pro 2 vs pro 3 camshaft comparison? just wanna see if there is any advantage for the pro cams vs the tuner upwards of 6k rpm.

Motor setup:
84.5mm supertech 11.5:1 pistons gsr head ported by JGE. Static compression 12.3:1
Victor x intake manifold running hondata s300.

 

The Pro3 with proper clearance and tuning will dominate the tuner 3 everywhere.

 

I agree w/ clean rice completely. The biggest downfall to the Pro 3's is no one ever sets them up correctly to get optimal performance. At a minimum I would pull the head to check clearances then use degreeing tools on install. If you pull the motor, a Degree wheel will give you the best results.

 

they need a smaller exhaust cam... cough.

 

HA....I am working on that still. Ill PM you some specs I am considering.

 

The pro3's will be properly degreed in. The motor is still on a stand. would the difference be worth the extra work involved in replacing them and reclaying the motor and re degreeing? I would also have to purchase the pro series springs. Are the retainers required to be pro series aswell? a comparison would be awesome. I will also be purchasing the Performer x king modded intake manifold very soon.

Thanks for all the help. Im looking at producing 260whp on 92 octane. as king motorsports did it with pro 2 camshafts.

 

also what is a good estimate of the horsepower difference at peak and estimated midrange gains.

 

5~30.

 

digging the sarcasm. Thanks! it did sound kinda ricey for asking that but its a legitimate question if the cam is only worth 4-6hp i dont think its worth buying and switching out the entire valvetrain and re timing the engine to run these camshafts. Sorry for insulting your intelligence.

 

Those cams are quite different and it may be in your best interests to dyno each one and keep the ones you like the most. If you're just drag racing, you'd be safe with the tuners but the pro 3's "should" make more average power.

 

so the cams can potentially make the same power just the pro 3's will be better midrange. hmm i dont have the funds to retune the motor. The safe bet as far as driveability(detonation free driveability) would be which cam? also would the gas mileage be greatly affected(pre vtec). i really would like to make the most power but dont want unnecessary wear on the motor when im driving to and from work. I know the tuner 3 has a near stock pre vtec lobe. Please educate me and lead me in the right direction.

 

I honestly don't know what you expect us to tell you go. The Pro3 is bigger in every way. It's newer technology. It has been proven time after time. What do you want us to waive a magic wand and tell you it's going to make ____ more hp?? Yes you would have to upgrade your vt. Yes you would have to re-degree. But is it worth it? Thats for YOU TO DECIDE GUY, NOT US. My god...

Next.

 

All this sh*t is a moot point if you're not going to retune the engine. If you don't have the green to re-tune the Pro3s, keep the Tuner series cams.

 

 

I don't understand the point of this thread. It might as well have been titled "Will Pro3 make more than S2S3, and if so - how much?" **** man....

 

All things being equal, the pro series cams should always make more power than the tuner series. All the dyno graphs I've ever seen, with a build like yours that runs s2s3's always makes great power. I have seen one or two people install the pro 3 cams and make less power in the top end but I always questioned the cams being set up and tuned correctly.

The pro 3's would be "less prone" to detonation due to the fact that they are a larger duration cam below VTEC. The stock like primaries on the s2s3's would require a little more attention when tuning them if you were at 13:1, but you're only at 11.5:1 so you shouldn't have any problems either way. The pro 3's would probably like a little more compression.

Most of what I'm saying is thinking out loud really. The only way to know for sure which cams will work best for you and give the most power is to try a few out but that always costs money. The safe route to go for now, is what others have said, which is the tuner 3's until you have more time and money down the road to experiment and test some other cams.

 

This is the type of answer i was looking for. Thanks for being very thorough. Well It seems i will just put the pro 3 camshafts as they will be less prone to detonation. My compression is actually at 12.3 after milling of the Head surface and block deck. My motor has not been tuned yet it is basically ready to be installed at the moment. I will just tear it back apart and install the pro 3's. There would there be problem with running the pro series valvetrain when using tuner 3 camshafts?

 

Please re-read! and comprehend thanks!

 

just out of curiosity what valve springs are you currently running right now? you said somewhere about having to change out your springs if/when you get the pro3 cams but dont you already have upgraded valvetrain running the stage 3's?

 

no, you should be fine. The tuner series valvetrain isn't recommended to be used on their pro series cams larger than the pro 1's though, just to clarify.

 

I currently have tuner series valvesprings and retainers.

 

The pro 3 camshafts seem to be the most logical choice as far as Performance goes. How are they as far as Upkeep? will they wear out anything quicker than the tuner 3 cams would?

Anyone with experience with tuning know how to tell im too advanced with my timing as far as The hondata goes? I have good tuners where i am located but just wanna be able to watchover them and kinda know what they are doing and if it is correct. From my reading you watch the knock count and determine A/F and timing. I am running stock sleeves which i have also "heard" break very easily even under the slightest detonation. What would i be able to do to avoid any detonation while trying to find the most power and realiability as possible, while using 92 pump gas?

Thanks for your patience.

 

slight detonation isn't going to hurt anything.. all cars have it..specially race cars.. when its audible enough to hear it over the motor thats when you got a problem..

post your maps..i'll look at it..