i did an all motor build on my gsr engine and i just did an oil change at 500 miles, and i cut open the oil filter to inspect the oil. The oil has a glitter in it goldish colored. Now i know this usually means a bearings going, but my motor sounds mint no knocks in the bottom end. Also when i put my head gasket in i sprayed copper spray on it and its possible it didnt dry enough, is it possible that the glitter is just some of the copper spray got in the oil? The oil had a few metal shavings not bad but im thinking that could be from when my head got shaved i cleaned the head the best i could but some shavings coulda got in there. I do have a new set of acl bearings i can throw in it if its bad bearings but ive done so much work to this thing im trying not to go that route unless i have to. lmk what u think.

 

I would take off the oil pan to see what you find if I'm correct and you found crap in your oil filter that means it sucked it threw the screen. Pull off the oil pan and see if you find anything

 

You should have done an oil change at ~20 miles, and used a magnetic drain plug. It is normal to have fine shavings in the oil with a fresh rebuild.

 

i did an oil change actually at 20 miles i had to take the head off and change the head gasket cuz i had sealing issues. when i did the oil change and head gasket @ 20 miles is when i sprayed the copper spray so the 500 mile oil change i just did was the second oil change actually.

 

Your first oil change is going to have bearings in it, its them seating correctly against the journals and its fine.. after the 3rd oil change there shouldn't be any..

Your motor, after being rebuilt or built, should have been primed, and started up and allowed to idle until fully warmed up and the fans came on, after taking it for a drive varying the rpm, you should have gotten on it a good bit and allowed for a coast down in a few gears to allow the rings to seat.

After that first initial start-up you should have let the car cool completely down, drain the oil, and then been on your 2nd oil change, where you should put around 400-500 miles on it before the next change, allowing your oil to get kind of dirty this time..

The 3rd oil change @ 1000 shouldn't really have any glitter to it, and this is where you can switch to your favorite oil.. I break all my own motors in, customer motors in and others motors we build here, on Valvoline 10w-30.

 

all motor that is exactly how i started my motor and broke it in except i did the first oil change at 20 miles. very good way to break a motor in all my compression numbers are good and even. ill put another 500 miles on it and do another oil change and see how it looks, thanks for the advice.

 

The exact method I use, with the exception that I use a non deterdent 30w for initial break in, whatever dino oil is on sale for the 20/500 oil changes, and 0w-30 german castrol at 1000. Like I said, magnetic drain plug is your friend.

 

Material found on the magnetic drain plug would be ferrous material so would this be from the cylinder walls and maybe some from the crank?

 

we provide those free to customers, who's motors we build.. i love them.

 

..what?

 

I was wondering if excessive material was found on the magnet, then where should we start to check it.

I don't believe the bearing material would stick to the magnet.

 

bearing material does stick to a magnet.. and no, its very normal for some shavings to be in there after the first start.

 

Are you sure? I thought OEM bearing material was composed of lead, tin & copper alloys bonded to an aluminum shell?

I was also under the impression that if the drain plug picks anything up, it's, essentially, catastrophic (crank, rods, cylinder liners, etc.)

 

K.