I did a google search and returned nothing but b-series swap brackets.

Sooo... Think I may fix the a/c so need to find out whats bad. Checked pressure was low added some freon and boom the fans click on. but I hear nothing from the compressor. (I dont have the belt on it, I did but it was very worn so removed after seeing the ac didnt work) So i put a test light on the single wire running into the compressor and nothing! So i tried jumping it w a 12v source and nothing again (the light did come on though?) Im thinking compressor but need a way to know for sure. Any ideas? Also there is a reman kit on ebay with everything has anyone used it and howd it work?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...#ht_1994wt_859

 

When you say nothing happens when you jumped the compressor do you mean the clutch didn't engage, or what? If it was the clutch then either replace the whole unit if you can find one cheap, or replace the a/c clutch portion of the compressor. If you're not getting the 12v signal for the comp. to even turn on though you need to see if the dual pressure switch is closing the circuit when the refrigerant is at the right psi, and also test to see if the a/c diode is working at the climate control unit. If the receiver dryer is old i would highly suggest replacing that also.

 

ill sell you my used A/C components. it was hacked when i got the car, but I know that it works. i tested it by using butt connectors. PM ill send pics and details.

 

Ok Well here's wherein at now. Following a flow chart. I can jump the correct wires in the relay and make the clutch engage. So clutch is good. Relay is good. Ground terminal b3 at the Ecuador and it works as well! Says to replace w known good ecu don't have one at the shop so that'll have to wait but don't get y that'd be it. So what else?

 

Damn auto correct!!! Ecu not Ecuador

 

Ok to update my topic. I just picked up a belt and put it on.. start up the car hit AC w fan on 4 and clutch engages as do fans and have 12v at compressor connection appears everything works now? But don't feel cold. Cool maybe but not cold. Do I need to replace the expansion valve or drier? Freon is good and it is converted to 134

 

R134 retrofit is HARD to get as cold as R-12. I switched to ES-12.

 

Ya whenever I see threads like this they always end up being someone hating on 134. I personally just don't have a/c.

 

Well I dont expect the 134 to be as cold as the r12 BUT!!!! It should still blow cold and as of yet it is not! So If everything is working why wouldnt it be cold?

 

Just because you put freon in doesn't mean it is going to be automatically cold. You could of under charged it, over charged it, or didn't pull enough vacuum front the start. There are many factors to look at.

 

Well elaborate! That is why I asked a question after all! I used a gauge and the pressure is good after charging. Is there any other way to know its charged? I did not vacuum the system but the only person I know personally that is good w this kind of thing wont be home for a week or so and i wanted to take a shot till he gets back.

 

If you did not pull a vacuum, then that is your main reason for not getting cold air. You have to be as close to -29psi for it even to boil correctly. I'm only gonna quote a little bit, but everything can be found here https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/%5Bfaq%5D-how-charge-your-c-air-conditioner-conditioning-system-home-1665946/ WHY YOU MUST PULL A DEEP VACUUM

FIRST, I will explain to you exactly how an a/c system works. The compressor will be the start of the process. So, the compressor first compresses AMBIENT TEMPERATURE low pressure vaporized (gas) refrigerant. (and this initial gas starts out at AMBIENT TEMPERATURE [ambient = surrounding temperature] simply due to natural tendeance for heat to balance itself among two platforms when the a/c has been turned off for a while. This low pressure gas will become a cool low pressure gas after it makes a few cycles through the system, thus the reason why your a/c blows colder over time.)

Once compressed it becomes a hot high pressure gas. Then this gas travels to the condensor and is cooled off (condensed) to a hot high pressure liquid. This was the first "phase change". It requires a LOT of energy for a substance to change phases. So when it condenses into a liquid, a LOT of heat is released.

The liquid refrigereant then travels to the drier to filter oil dirt and moisture, then to the Thermal Expansion Valve and becomes a cold low pressure liquid which causes it to absorb some heat.(Depending on the make of the car, it may use an orifice tube instead of a TXV, which does essentially the same thing. If it was equiped with an orifice tube then rather than passing through a drier previously, it would go straight to the orifce tube then to an accumulator after the evaporator which serves as a dirt and liquid filter to prevent liquid refrigerant from traveling to the compressor and potentially locking it up.)

Now that its a cold low pressure liquid the boiling point has been reduced significantly. It now travels through the evaporator which is where it absorbs its heat from and is also where the second phase change occurs. When the refrigerant reaches its boiling point halfway through the evaporator, it requires A LOT of heat for this phase change to occur. Thus the absorbtion of the heat from the surrounding air making it cold, and is then blown at your face as conditioned air! Now that the refrigerant has absorbed a LOT of heat, its a cool low pressure GAS and heads back to the compressor and repeats the whole cycle!

Now....Air in the system can lead to higher than desired pressures in the a/c lines, which could falsly activate the high pressure cut off switch and turn off the compressor when in reality your compressor hasnt been running long enough to cool you down at all! Air-Air is also a VERY poor heat transfer platform. So when it reachers the evaporator, its just wasting space and doesnt actually remove any heat. However, Air-Liquid is a GREAT heat transfer platform, hense why your radiator has LIQUID flowing through it, and same with your evaporator and same with your condensor. So this is ONE reason why we pull a deep vacuum.

Moisture in the system can form corrosive acids when mixed with refrigerant or oil which will tear up your a/c system over time. It can also freeze and cause a block in the line considering its freezing point is MUCH higher than that of refrigerant. This is the OTHER reason why we pull a deep vacuum. To lower the boiling point of water and make it a vapor which can then be sucked out with a vacuum pump.

 

Most of that I knew but alot of good information and so I will wait till I can use his vacuum. I know we did this 2 weeks ago on another project and I didnt ask y but we did vacuum for 30-45mins. Now I know why Thanks