B18a1- b18b1 problems no spark
i have another thread but everyone quit helpin, im not getting spark to my motor at all, i have every ground connected. My dizzy does have power. Im stumped also my gauges like temp on dash goes down when i turn key and when i turn it off you goes up, and now my fuel is empty it says
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From: That's the wrong tone... I'm Skunk2 certified.
do you have access to a multimeter? i would test your battery voltage before you try and start it (should be around 12.5 volts), and have someone try and start it while you read the voltage at the battery. it should jump up to over 14 volts. if it doesn't, or if it dips down, it's prob your alternator.
it sounds like your alternator may be to blame. do you have a friends car that you could try your distributor on? if your distributor works on another car, then you can rule that out.
btw, if you dont have a multimeter, they're like 12 bucks at lowes or harbor freight.
are you throwing any codes?
it sounds like your alternator may be to blame. do you have a friends car that you could try your distributor on? if your distributor works on another car, then you can rule that out.
btw, if you dont have a multimeter, they're like 12 bucks at lowes or harbor freight.
are you throwing any codes?
chances are its got something to do with the distributor, or its a ground, chances are its the dizzy...
also is your main relay clicking when u turn your key?? you should hear it under the dashboard.
check the ground on the thermostat housing, also transmission and on the top of the valve cover on driver side going to the core support
also is your main relay clicking when u turn your key?? you should hear it under the dashboard.
check the ground on the thermostat housing, also transmission and on the top of the valve cover on driver side going to the core support
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oh yea main relay i replaced when i was on a trip, and the dizzy gets power if the dizzy is off the car but hooked up and i try turning over the car. Should the teeth spin?
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From: That's the wrong tone... I'm Skunk2 certified.
new parts can go bad, too. do you hear the main relay click and the fuel pump prime up before you try and start it?
your right about the alternator. its prob either your distributor, or grounds.
did you just do a swap, or any motor work? im not trying to come off like a dick or anything, but did it work before you did something? if so, it helps to backtrack.
your right about the alternator. its prob either your distributor, or grounds.
did you just do a swap, or any motor work? im not trying to come off like a dick or anything, but did it work before you did something? if so, it helps to backtrack.
everything worked on my b18a1 it blew so i order b18b1 i labeled all parts only thing i didnt label is vacumms could that be a reason for no spark?
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From: That's the wrong tone... I'm Skunk2 certified.
it matters. it's one more thing that could've been done wrong. im not trying insult you, man. im just trying to help. no need to get all defensive, most of us on here have been there before.
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From: That's the wrong tone... I'm Skunk2 certified.
if you cant hear the relay click and the fuel pump prime up, its time to crack out a multimeter. that will help you rule out a lot of **** quickly.
Are you using the intake manifold, distributor and injectors off the obd0 B18A1 motor? Most things have to be changed back to OBD0 if your using an OBD2 motor.
Just for the record I have a OBD2 JDM B18B in my OBD0 Hatch and it runs with no problem.
Just for the record I have a OBD2 JDM B18B in my OBD0 Hatch and it runs with no problem.
put the relay in ur hand and when u turn the key forward it should click, if it doesnt click then it is the relay, also how does your rotor and cap look?? i had a car that didnt have spark and i pulled the cap off and the rotor fell out in my hand.. screw backed out, all i did was grab screw from the magnet and put it back in fired rite up,,,
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From: That's the wrong tone... I'm Skunk2 certified.
do you have a map sensor hooked up? obd2s have them on the throttle body, but stock, they're mounted on the firewall with a vacuum line going into them.
hm, no codes though?
hm, no codes though?
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From: That's the wrong tone... I'm Skunk2 certified.
you need to start doing things to rule out:
-the main relay clicking / fuel pump priming
-alternator giving 14 volts to charging system when starting
-all of the fuses relating to the engine in the underhood fuse box
-all of your engine grounds
-MAP sensor hooked up properly and getting vacuum
your fuel regulator needs to be hooked up with a vacuum line to a solenoid on the firewall, and your map sensor needs a vacuum line. everything else on the manifold at least needs to be plugged up if your not going to hook those up yet.
what throttle body and manifold did you use?
-the main relay clicking / fuel pump priming
-alternator giving 14 volts to charging system when starting
-all of the fuses relating to the engine in the underhood fuse box
-all of your engine grounds
-MAP sensor hooked up properly and getting vacuum
your fuel regulator needs to be hooked up with a vacuum line to a solenoid on the firewall, and your map sensor needs a vacuum line. everything else on the manifold at least needs to be plugged up if your not going to hook those up yet.
what throttle body and manifold did you use?
Im useing b18b1 throttle body i took this power tester. it looks like a screw driver with a light bulb, and the bottom of the dizzy has a few wires i tested the plug no juice kept follwing it to my driver side door found the next plug no juice. What does the main relay look like cause i think thats the next step
Either go to a salvage lot and grab a few of them, buy a new relay, or take the old relay apart and solder it back together. The main relays tend to get hot a desolder themselves.


