Hey HT,

I am trying to sell my integra, but the wheel bearing on the left side is beyond bad but somehow still in place. I hve every possible nut removed to take the HUB off but it isn't coming with the force I'm putting in. High mileage stock car.

I've done a search, and I know there are some write ups but many have deleted descriptions or pictures. So my question is, what else can I do with 'enough' tools but no power or BFH's to remove this thing off?

Had a rough day so I've had a few drinks, but ironically in the past things have worked out after a few beers. Just need to get the hub off so I can bring it to a shop to remove and press in the new bearing for tomorrow.

(Cliff notes- Every nut and bolt removed, axle nut to all the 3 nuts requiring cotter pin removed, even dropped the lower suspension from bolt but no play, only cuts in my hands. Thank you for any input)

 

you have to have a machine shop press out your wheel bearing. i have a broken stud on mine which i cant pound out unless i get it pressed out.

 

Fronts or rears?

 

What he said... I just did both front bearings on mine. Here's a quick list...

Jack up the car, put jack stands under the frame for safety
Pull the wheel
Disconnect ABS sensor, and bolts (10mm) holding sensor wire to the knuckle.
Disconnect Brake line, and bolts (10mm) holding the brake line to the knuckle.
Remove the two bolts holding the brake caliper, remove
Remove the two screws that hold the rotor to the hub if you can, they're a B**tch if rusted in. If you can't, let the shop do it.
Remove the nut holding the hub to the driveshaft.

Pick up a tool at the local Cost Less (auto parts) to pop the ball joints (there are 3, top, bottom, and steering) - cost, $30. Mine looks a lot like this one, and worked real well without damaging the rubber boot:

http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-61900.../dp/B0002SRDRI

Pick up a new bearing while you are at your favorite auto parts store ($35-$50, depending upon quality)

Pull the whole knuckle.
Take it down to Les Schwab (or a suitable auto shop)
They'll take about 1/2 hour to put set up the hydraulic press, press out the hub, press out the bearing, cut any clinging part of the bearing off the hub, press the new bearing onto the hub, press the hub back into the knuckle. Oh, and there's a snap ring holding the bearing in the hub, FYI. Labor cost was $45-ish.
Take it home, re-install your stuff.

Pretty good compromise all things considered. I watched them do the first one, then for the second took it to a friend's shop that had a press. We managed to do pretty well and it saved a few more dollars. I wouldn't even attempt without the press... and then, part of the bearing race stuck to the hub (both times) and both times we used a 3" pneumatic cutting tool to cut most of the way through (on an angle) and then used a hammer and punch to slide it off the hub. At the time I had neither press nor cutter - and wouldn't want to try without them.

Good luck!

 

I use a impact screwdriver and a hammer to get the bolts off the rotors with ease and use a hammer and pickle fork for ball joints

 

Impact screwdriver works great to get the screws off the rotors. You can buy replacement new ones at a autozone in the HELP section aisle cheap. I use a ball joint puller to avoid damage to the boots.

 

Thanks all, going to my friends to get his ball joint pullers.

 

You can just use a hammer to pop the ball joints loose that's what I always do so I don't damage the boots and it take like 2 seconds most of the time

 

The lower ball joint is the only issue. Got everything else off just dangling.

 

If you use a hammer on the ball joints, first turn the castle nut upside down and thread it back on until the bottom of it is flush with the end of the bolt... it protects the threads.

 

use a pickle fork and it will pop right out with a few hits from a hammer

 

...that won't remove the hub. Also, a pickle fork shouldn't be used on ball joint boots that you intend on re-using. They destroy the boots.

You can dislodge ball joints by hitting the knuckle with a hammer. Don't hit the ball joint stud...basically, you're trying to vibrate the stud out of the knuckle.

 

Theres 2 hot points on the bottem control arm use a heavy enuff hammer on both side and it will pop out