im a noob at this!!
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Honda-Tech Member
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From: marshfield missouri
im a noob at this!!
so a buddy just told me about this forum, and from what ive seen looks pretty good! so i just bought a 89 ef hatch, with a b18a1 and trans swap. got it for a good price. its fun to drive...but could be a lot more fun from the sounds of it!!! so my question is; what few things are an absolute must for this car within reason? ie from 500 bucks and under. im looking at gettn' another 20hps out of it without having to break it down. thanks for anyone that responds to this!!!http://images.ibsrv.net/ibsrv/res/sr...ies/emthup.gif
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0x5359-0055
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,022
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From: Texas doe, they do everything big. u mad?
Re: im a noob at this!!
F what everyone in above has stated. The best bang for $500 is, IMO, your suspension. A nice shock/spring combo will make you a shitload happier than an extra 20 ponies.
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Re: im a noob at this!!
" ie from 500 bucks and under. im looking at gettn' another 20hps out of it without having to break it down. "
Pirate General...YARRRR
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 12,354
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From: Kills, United States
Re: im a noob at this!!
lsvtec done right will cost more than 500.
How many headers? And now it's vtak? Jesus.
Please don't listen to the people here.
Now this is a good post.
Stop posting seriously.
Equal rights, have the mrs treat him to dinner. Also doing even mild n20 I feel having more than just a basic system is worth while and that will up his costs.
Honda board =/= fast cars.
n20 is around 4.50 a lb here so depends on bottle size.
Also any poorly done mod is a risk.
I also aprove of this post.
OP, as you mentioned your suspension is "slammed" and you are looking for more HP, but the gurus would advise other things first but if you are feeling HP is your next need my advise would be get a more agressive trans or final drive. While it'll look the same on a dyno the power use will skyrocket.
Slapping on bolt ons with a ls trans is really not going to be the same as having a good trans on it.
Assuming you can't won't do trans work, build a plan of total budget and all for down the line so you know what you need now. For example it would be foolish to buy a header if you are seriously going to go turbo soon.
Personally, I feel a good header is the best mod you can do and one worth the price. Now with Hondas there are a lot of great aftermarket headers out there. To suit your budget and power band.
If I was in your shoes I'd look at trans, breathing mods then some cams and gears (assuming you do not want to run an lsvtec).
I am sorry this forum is just gone down hill.
How many headers? And now it's vtak? Jesus.
Stop posting seriously.
Honda board =/= fast cars.
but really if u want an eazy 20 hp use a bottle. that way u can have some fun and with a 50 shot 50 extra hp. its 70-100 bucks to fill the bottle depending on where u get it filled. i had a 50 shot for a while and sprayed every chance i could but i changed jets to 100 and blew it up that same day. if you get a nice exhaust there is 500 bucks skunk2/hks/greddy. but it is dangerous sometime. my buddys car caught on fire bc his T on the fuel line started to leak. stock fuel psi is like 35-65 so you shouldnt cut the oem fuel line.
Also any poorly done mod is a risk.
I also aprove of this post.
OP, as you mentioned your suspension is "slammed" and you are looking for more HP, but the gurus would advise other things first but if you are feeling HP is your next need my advise would be get a more agressive trans or final drive. While it'll look the same on a dyno the power use will skyrocket.
Slapping on bolt ons with a ls trans is really not going to be the same as having a good trans on it.
Assuming you can't won't do trans work, build a plan of total budget and all for down the line so you know what you need now. For example it would be foolish to buy a header if you are seriously going to go turbo soon.
Personally, I feel a good header is the best mod you can do and one worth the price. Now with Hondas there are a lot of great aftermarket headers out there. To suit your budget and power band.
If I was in your shoes I'd look at trans, breathing mods then some cams and gears (assuming you do not want to run an lsvtec).
I am sorry this forum is just gone down hill.
0x5359-0055
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Texas doe, they do everything big. u mad?
Pirate General...YARRRR
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 12,354
Likes: 2
From: Kills, United States
Re: im a noob at this!!
If he can not do it or chooses not to other options were posted. But a trans is going to be his biggest change.
Does your awful typing run in the family?
No one was being stuck up people were just correcting bad advice that would leave the OP with out a running, or reliable car. In best case he would have wasted money and not been happy.
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 244
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From: Orlando, FL, US
Re: im a noob at this!!
A quality (meaning the manufacturing company actually conducted R&D with displayable, improved results) intake, header, and exhaust combo for under $500... Ha! Now that is hilarious. The gains without tuning are approximately 7-12 HP depending on your setup (and that typically entails spending over a $1000 on your I/H/E combo).
Check your transmission. The B18A1 came with the A1, S1, or YS1 transmission, but with longer gear ratios. Buy a used Y1/S1/J1 transmission, which are typically available for around $500 or less if you can find one. Spend $20 on a Haynes manual from Advance/Autozone and spend the weekend installing the the transmission with two of your friends. You will see much more gains than those received from $500 worth of intake, header, and exhaust and spend nearly the same amount.
I'm going to add some tech now to make this a meaningful post.
Gear Ratios
S1/YS1/A1 for the USDM B18A
3.166 1.857 1.259 0.935 0.742 4.400
S1/J1 for the JDM B16A X-Si
3.230 2.105 1.458 1.107 0.848 4.400
Y1; Y1 w/LSD for the JDM B16A SiR I
3.166 2.052 1.416 1.103 0.870 4.266
And trust me, LSD is sexy... Aldus Huxley agrees. The larger the number, OP, the quicker your car accelerates in that gear. HP means nothing if you are fighting a sluggish transmission.
And Russ, you're recommending a newb install a nitrous kit rather than a transmission? Custom install vs. removal and replacement seems an easy choice for me as the directions are explicitly laid out in a Haynes manual and tool requirements are minimal for the swap.
Thumbs up to 213374U, ***$nyper, and LudeEF for at least attempting to dose a touch of reality into this forum.
Check your transmission. The B18A1 came with the A1, S1, or YS1 transmission, but with longer gear ratios. Buy a used Y1/S1/J1 transmission, which are typically available for around $500 or less if you can find one. Spend $20 on a Haynes manual from Advance/Autozone and spend the weekend installing the the transmission with two of your friends. You will see much more gains than those received from $500 worth of intake, header, and exhaust and spend nearly the same amount.
I'm going to add some tech now to make this a meaningful post.
Gear Ratios
S1/YS1/A1 for the USDM B18A
3.166 1.857 1.259 0.935 0.742 4.400
S1/J1 for the JDM B16A X-Si
3.230 2.105 1.458 1.107 0.848 4.400
Y1; Y1 w/LSD for the JDM B16A SiR I
3.166 2.052 1.416 1.103 0.870 4.266
And trust me, LSD is sexy... Aldus Huxley agrees. The larger the number, OP, the quicker your car accelerates in that gear. HP means nothing if you are fighting a sluggish transmission.
Thumbs up to 213374U, ***$nyper, and LudeEF for at least attempting to dose a touch of reality into this forum.