Best Intake Manifold for All Motor B16/GSR setup?
Looking for some recommendations of intake manifolds that would help out on a b16 or gsr setup? I'm going to want to stay all motor, and eventually do full bolt ons... POSSIBLY some minor head work...
I've heard good things about skunk2 and edlebrock, but I'm not sure about for this motor what is best or proven...
I've heard good things about skunk2 and edlebrock, but I'm not sure about for this motor what is best or proven...
It depends on how much work your going to do. Too small can restrict air flow but too big slows down air velocity.
I'd recommend skunk2.
I'd recommend skunk2.
The all motor forum generally commends the skunk2 intake manifold for being a piece of junk.
Intake manifold is going to be a dramatic waste of money and should be the last thing you do in an all motor build.
A big throttle body and a proper 3" intake with a velocity stack.
Have you even gotten a set of good cams? valves/springs/retainers?
If you haven't done cams and a tune yet you shouldn't even be considering an intake manifold. The power per dollar spent is very low on an intake manifold. Not to mention intake manifolds are a pain in the *** to install.
Intake manifold is going to be a dramatic waste of money and should be the last thing you do in an all motor build.
A big throttle body and a proper 3" intake with a velocity stack.
Have you even gotten a set of good cams? valves/springs/retainers?
If you haven't done cams and a tune yet you shouldn't even be considering an intake manifold. The power per dollar spent is very low on an intake manifold. Not to mention intake manifolds are a pain in the *** to install.
Just curious was it hard for you to get to the bottom bolts on the minifold? I think its pretty easy to swap them out. Maybe 30 mins last time I went from a gsr to skunk2. Im running a skunk2 but im boosted too with ctr cams.
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I had to get to one of the bottom ones with a wrench, and use another wrech for torque on a b18a1. With the motor on a stand.
go with the GSR setup. if ur gonna use a GSR block and head, DO NOT USE THE STOCK GSR MANIFOLD. they are ugly, hard to work around and will be useless once you start modifying the engine.
-if you go poor-man's type-r (PR3 head), the P30 manifold is best for daily driving and mid-range. the type-r manifold only sees gains at about 8300+ RPM so its not worth it unless you will be revving that high.
-if you keep the GSR head, get a Skunk2 i guess (they are modeled EXACTLY after the type-r manifold). i had one on my old motor and it was cool. eventually, PORT MATCH the throttle body to it. if the throttle body isnt port matched to whatever intake manifold you use, then its not as good lol. good luck.
-if you go poor-man's type-r (PR3 head), the P30 manifold is best for daily driving and mid-range. the type-r manifold only sees gains at about 8300+ RPM so its not worth it unless you will be revving that high.
-if you keep the GSR head, get a Skunk2 i guess (they are modeled EXACTLY after the type-r manifold). i had one on my old motor and it was cool. eventually, PORT MATCH the throttle body to it. if the throttle body isnt port matched to whatever intake manifold you use, then its not as good lol. good luck.
I would recommend looking into a Edelbrock Performer X manifold. The long runners are what you need when building an all motor engine.

Who told you that?
Any intake manifold is pretty much going to be beneficial under boost. Edlebrock is generally praised for being the best of the low end aftermarket intake manifolds.
TBH, I wouldn't waste my time with an expensive intake manifold. The gains are minimal when you compare power gains per dollar spent.
Do cams and a good tune long before you do an intake manifold. If you don't have a 3" short ram with a velocity stack, do that before you do the intake manifold.
Intake manifold would be the last thing I would do.
No it wont hurt you but the performer x is going to be much more beneficial (runner length). They large plenum with short runners on the victor x is better for boost because the air is being forced into the engine and does not need the long runners to build velocity.
Thats what I was told.... More beneficial.... I have a victor X... came with my setup... I was thinking of selling and buying the performer x... IF thats the better to have...
Idk if it would be that much more beneficial. I mean enough to spend more money. Hell who knows, one day you might decide to go turbo
In an all motor situation... you can rev high but not make power... I want to try and get power in high rps... let me say that... past 8200...
Im going to keep my manifold... I decided unless I see its hurting more then helping..
Im going to keep my manifold... I decided unless I see its hurting more then helping..
Revving higher doesn't make more power until you build the engine up so that it actually builds power at those higher rpms. You can't just rev to infinity and make infinite power.
A set of cams certainly isn't going to make the car rev higher. You have to look into serious bottom end building to promote higher revs.
A set of cams certainly isn't going to make the car rev higher. You have to look into serious bottom end building to promote higher revs.
Revving higher doesn't make more power until you build the engine up so that it actually builds power at those higher rpms. You can't just rev to infinity and make infinite power.
A set of cams certainly isn't going to make the car rev higher. You have to look into serious bottom end building to promote higher revs.
A set of cams certainly isn't going to make the car rev higher. You have to look into serious bottom end building to promote higher revs.
At what point do you think the stock pistons or rods are unable to sustain the workload?


