Turbo D16
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Columbia, South Carolina
Ok, i have a 1989 CRX Si and it just rolled over at 150,xxx miles, i want to turbo it because it lookes like i wont get a b16 for a while. What could i do to make it safe to be turboed? its never been turboed before, and its gonna be cheaper for me to turbo it than get the b16, so dont even say that. I want to atleast run 8lbs of boost and at the most try to get it to 10, but how could i do that safely? TIA
At 150k I strongly suggest you get a back-up motor to work on while you play with boost on your current engine.
Saying you want to run 8~10psi means absolutely nothing.
What you need to do is figure out how much horsepower you want to run.
For an older stock D motor and for this being your first boost setup, I would suggest you stay at about 180hp normal and maybe 200hp on scramble (I say that hesitantly considering the miles on your engine).
Then you select the turbo you want to use to meet this goal - I think a turbo similar (or the same) as the Greddy kit offers will do just fine for this.
Rule of thumb is that stock D-series rods are good for about 220hp with proper tuning.
People have gone way over this number with superb tuning, but that's simply incredible.
... and considering the age of your engine I wouldn't recommend anything so aggressive.
A smaller turbo obviously will produce less output air than the larger turbo.
Hence, it will require more psi from the smaller turbo to achieve the same hp as a larger turbo.
A larger turbo has a different power band than the smaller.
Too large of a turbo and you may never match it's potential, too small and you will stop producing power early on.
So it is important you select the proper turbo for your engine.
Tuning, tuning, tuning.
Oh - and tuning.
Did I mention tuning? You need to have your car tuned.
tuning.
Saying you want to run 8~10psi means absolutely nothing.
What you need to do is figure out how much horsepower you want to run.
For an older stock D motor and for this being your first boost setup, I would suggest you stay at about 180hp normal and maybe 200hp on scramble (I say that hesitantly considering the miles on your engine).
Then you select the turbo you want to use to meet this goal - I think a turbo similar (or the same) as the Greddy kit offers will do just fine for this.
Rule of thumb is that stock D-series rods are good for about 220hp with proper tuning.
People have gone way over this number with superb tuning, but that's simply incredible.
... and considering the age of your engine I wouldn't recommend anything so aggressive.
A smaller turbo obviously will produce less output air than the larger turbo.
Hence, it will require more psi from the smaller turbo to achieve the same hp as a larger turbo.
A larger turbo has a different power band than the smaller.
Too large of a turbo and you may never match it's potential, too small and you will stop producing power early on.
So it is important you select the proper turbo for your engine.
Tuning, tuning, tuning.
Oh - and tuning.
Did I mention tuning? You need to have your car tuned.
tuning.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Columbia, South Carolina
great place for info
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1643764
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1643764
My friends stock a6 dyno:
If you want to make it "safe" then don't Boost it. Anything can and will happen and with that many miles i would not consider boosting it a "safe" solution. You can boost your current motor but dont expect it to last long. Plus, the tunning will cost you more than the kit itself. If i were you and wanted it cheap i would hunt down some 450cc injectors from a turbo eclipse, then find a HF manifold with adapter plate, T3 turbo, Oil lines, Boost gauge, Charge pipes, make a custom Down pipe, Chipped ECU (OBD1 ), etc etc... It's a lot of work. in the end all of this adds up and if you have buddies with parts laying around it will be cheaper but expect to spend 500-800 on parts. Or... you can buy a nice Ching Chong kit and risk it
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screw it boost the motor if it breaks fix it. Or rebuild it with a beefier bottom end and hen turbo it. Only way to make it safe is do a rebuild on the bottom end and find a guy who can give you the proper way to do it.
didnt we already go over this its gonna be a waste of money and a perfectly fine a6 op save your money and buy a b series if you wana go fast...enjjoy your mpgs
The turbo selection will be nearly identical with the exception of the slightly increased exhaust volume in vtec. The differences will be electronics (non-OBD1/OBD2), and charge piping (if you use an intercooler, it will route a little differently through the radiator support).
If you chose to do so, you could get a used Greddy kit and only need to do some minor charge piping modifications. I would stay away from the eBay off-brand kits.... you never know what you will get.
What it would set you up for is building a Z6 or Y8 while time ticks away on your A6. Get one used and do a full rebuild with a few internal upgrades.
Everything would swap over and, along with an OBD1 conversion, you would be golden to make 100 more hp.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Columbia, South Carolina
At 150k I strongly suggest you get a back-up motor to work on while you play with boost on your current engine.
Saying you want to run 8~10psi means absolutely nothing.
What you need to do is figure out how much horsepower you want to run.
For an older stock D motor and for this being your first boost setup, I would suggest you stay at about 180hp normal and maybe 200hp on scramble (I say that hesitantly considering the miles on your engine).
Then you select the turbo you want to use to meet this goal - I think a turbo similar (or the same) as the Greddy kit offers will do just fine for this.
Rule of thumb is that stock D-series rods are good for about 220hp with proper tuning.
People have gone way over this number with superb tuning, but that's simply incredible.
... and considering the age of your engine I wouldn't recommend anything so aggressive.
A smaller turbo obviously will produce less output air than the larger turbo.
Hence, it will require more psi from the smaller turbo to achieve the same hp as a larger turbo.
A larger turbo has a different power band than the smaller.
Too large of a turbo and you may never match it's potential, too small and you will stop producing power early on.
So it is important you select the proper turbo for your engine.
Tuning, tuning, tuning.
Oh - and tuning.
Did I mention tuning? You need to have your car tuned.
tuning.
Saying you want to run 8~10psi means absolutely nothing.
What you need to do is figure out how much horsepower you want to run.
For an older stock D motor and for this being your first boost setup, I would suggest you stay at about 180hp normal and maybe 200hp on scramble (I say that hesitantly considering the miles on your engine).
Then you select the turbo you want to use to meet this goal - I think a turbo similar (or the same) as the Greddy kit offers will do just fine for this.
Rule of thumb is that stock D-series rods are good for about 220hp with proper tuning.
People have gone way over this number with superb tuning, but that's simply incredible.
... and considering the age of your engine I wouldn't recommend anything so aggressive.
A smaller turbo obviously will produce less output air than the larger turbo.
Hence, it will require more psi from the smaller turbo to achieve the same hp as a larger turbo.
A larger turbo has a different power band than the smaller.
Too large of a turbo and you may never match it's potential, too small and you will stop producing power early on.
So it is important you select the proper turbo for your engine.
Tuning, tuning, tuning.
Oh - and tuning.
Did I mention tuning? You need to have your car tuned.
tuning.
Im gonna try real hard here not to flame you...
If you want to make it "safe" then don't Boost it. Anything can and will happen and with that many miles i would not consider boosting it a "safe" solution. You can boost your current motor but dont expect it to last long. Plus, the tunning will cost you more than the kit itself. If i were you and wanted it cheap i would hunt down some 450cc injectors from a turbo eclipse, then find a HF manifold with adapter plate, T3 turbo, Oil lines, Boost gauge, Charge pipes, make a custom Down pipe, Chipped ECU (OBD1 ), etc etc... It's a lot of work. in the end all of this adds up and if you have buddies with parts laying around it will be cheaper but expect to spend 500-800 on parts. Or... you can buy a nice Ching Chong kit and risk it
If you want to make it "safe" then don't Boost it. Anything can and will happen and with that many miles i would not consider boosting it a "safe" solution. You can boost your current motor but dont expect it to last long. Plus, the tunning will cost you more than the kit itself. If i were you and wanted it cheap i would hunt down some 450cc injectors from a turbo eclipse, then find a HF manifold with adapter plate, T3 turbo, Oil lines, Boost gauge, Charge pipes, make a custom Down pipe, Chipped ECU (OBD1 ), etc etc... It's a lot of work. in the end all of this adds up and if you have buddies with parts laying around it will be cheaper but expect to spend 500-800 on parts. Or... you can buy a nice Ching Chong kit and risk it

You can nearly copy the Z6 or the Y8 kit.
The turbo selection will be nearly identical with the exception of the slightly increased exhaust volume in vtec. The differences will be electronics (non-OBD1/OBD2), and charge piping (if you use an intercooler, it will route a little differently through the radiator support).
If you chose to do so, you could get a used Greddy kit and only need to do some minor charge piping modifications. I would stay away from the eBay off-brand kits.... you never know what you will get.
What it would set you up for is building a Z6 or Y8 while time ticks away on your A6. Get one used and do a full rebuild with a few internal upgrades.
Everything would swap over and, along with an OBD1 conversion, you would be golden to make 100 more hp.
The turbo selection will be nearly identical with the exception of the slightly increased exhaust volume in vtec. The differences will be electronics (non-OBD1/OBD2), and charge piping (if you use an intercooler, it will route a little differently through the radiator support).
If you chose to do so, you could get a used Greddy kit and only need to do some minor charge piping modifications. I would stay away from the eBay off-brand kits.... you never know what you will get.
What it would set you up for is building a Z6 or Y8 while time ticks away on your A6. Get one used and do a full rebuild with a few internal upgrades.
Everything would swap over and, along with an OBD1 conversion, you would be golden to make 100 more hp.
I know of like 2 places that can tune it, but no one that i know work on cars
Good for thousands of miles.
Used maybe be a different story, but sending it off for a rebuild is probablly a good idea anyway. At the least to have bearings replaced and impellers inpsected for cracks (that's the 'fault' of these turbos is the get heat cracks over time).
Z6 and Y8 are both vtec and you could then go to OBD1 very easily.
Then you could use the entire Greddy kit including electronics (running a P28 ECU).
Tuning wouldn't be as necessary as the kit would have it done already... but 200 would require tuning and a different electronics solution.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Columbia, South Carolina
Well, not sure where you heard your info, but Greddy kit turbos aren't bad at all.
Good for thousands of miles.
Used maybe be a different story, but sending it off for a rebuild is probablly a good idea anyway. At the least to have bearings replaced and impellers inpsected for cracks (that's the 'fault' of these turbos is the get heat cracks over time).
Z6 and Y8 are both vtec and you could then go to OBD1 very easily.
Then you could use the entire Greddy kit including electronics (running a P28 ECU).
Tuning wouldn't be as necessary as the kit would have it done already... but 200 would require tuning and a different electronics solution.
Good for thousands of miles.
Used maybe be a different story, but sending it off for a rebuild is probablly a good idea anyway. At the least to have bearings replaced and impellers inpsected for cracks (that's the 'fault' of these turbos is the get heat cracks over time).
Z6 and Y8 are both vtec and you could then go to OBD1 very easily.
Then you could use the entire Greddy kit including electronics (running a P28 ECU).
Tuning wouldn't be as necessary as the kit would have it done already... but 200 would require tuning and a different electronics solution.
.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Columbia, South Carolina
I would b happy making 160, but my goal is 200. I plan to get SRP Pistons, Eagle Rods with ARP Rod Bolts, ZEX 105300 Street/Strip Camshaft, AEM Tru-Time Cam Gear, AEM Fuel Rail/Fuel Filter/FPR, DSM 450cc injectors, 255 lph walbro inline, and was thinking about a turbonetics turbo kit, or an edlebrock kit? would this kill my engine?
/thread fail
So you are going to build the stock A6 motor now?
Everything you listed is impressive and probably good for 300hp.
A BONE STOCK engine will let you reach your goal of 200 so I don't understand the parts you want to put into it.
I would much rather spend all that $ and buy something else.
The cam you listed is a vtec cam and will not work in the A6 head.
I'm getting a feeling that you are way out of your league.
.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Columbia, South Carolina
Now I'm completely confused.
/thread fail
So you are going to build the stock A6 motor now?
Everything you listed is impressive and probably good for 300hp.
A BONE STOCK engine will let you reach your goal of 200 so I don't understand the parts you want to put into it.
I would much rather spend all that $ and buy something else.
The cam you listed is a vtec cam and will not work in the A6 head.
I'm getting a feeling that you are way out of your league.
.
/thread fail
So you are going to build the stock A6 motor now?
Everything you listed is impressive and probably good for 300hp.
A BONE STOCK engine will let you reach your goal of 200 so I don't understand the parts you want to put into it.
I would much rather spend all that $ and buy something else.
The cam you listed is a vtec cam and will not work in the A6 head.
I'm getting a feeling that you are way out of your league.
.
So your saying i should just Boost it and leave everything stock, even with 150,000 miles? and i was told that cam would work, so thats why i listed it, but i could get Skunk2 Pro Series for like 115. and ive talked to a few people and they say that building a stock d16 is just easier because you dont have to do the swap, so im thinking i would do that, and i said im still gonna boost it. i would get all those parts because of the stock parts having so many miles on them.
there are many setups u can go. i would say get a good turbo, with a cheap kit ( ie charge pipe, oil lines, hf manifold, gauge, manual controler, down pipe, ect) and a back up motor "D16y8" would be a good one. slap the turbo on the a6 and run it while running it prep the y8 for the swap. RESEACH MORE!!!! then swap it in.
you can get all this for problaby less then your SRP pistons and eagle rods and all the othe stuff u add..
you can get all this for problaby less then your SRP pistons and eagle rods and all the othe stuff u add..
I've had 3 turbo set ups on my CRX for over 5 years. All the turbos I have used were small on a completely stock engine D16y7. I used 450 cc injectors and a good tune.
Never over rev the engine and don't over boost it.
My first set up was with an IHI RHB4, a smaller cousing of the RHB5 found on Mazdas.
It made 150 HP and 155 lb/ft at 6 psi. Super simple, fun and cheap set up on an HF manifold and adapter.
The car was stolen and the turbo set up along with a bunch other stuff vanished.
I got the car back and rebuild the turbo with a Chinese T3 copy. OK turbo but slow to spool up.
I redid the set up with a Holset HX25 and I am super happy with it.

So my advice to you would be keep it simple, use a small turbo that you don't have to rev a lot to get boost out of. Don't over rev the engine. Dsm 450cc's and a well tuned ECU.
Never over rev the engine and don't over boost it.
My first set up was with an IHI RHB4, a smaller cousing of the RHB5 found on Mazdas.
It made 150 HP and 155 lb/ft at 6 psi. Super simple, fun and cheap set up on an HF manifold and adapter.
The car was stolen and the turbo set up along with a bunch other stuff vanished.
I got the car back and rebuild the turbo with a Chinese T3 copy. OK turbo but slow to spool up.
I redid the set up with a Holset HX25 and I am super happy with it.

So my advice to you would be keep it simple, use a small turbo that you don't have to rev a lot to get boost out of. Don't over rev the engine. Dsm 450cc's and a well tuned ECU.





