Sup fellas, I'm right in the middle of swapping my blown up D16Y8 for a new one.

I ported the intake and the JRSC manifold, and I polished her all up nice, basically the only thing left to do is pull it out and exchange. I've already loosened up the drivers side engine mounts and I've cracked the all the tranny bolts.. I'm planning on yanking the engine without taking the trans with it..

I don't wanna mess around with the shift linkages, axles and ball joints.

BTW the only thing on the engine is the alternator, everything else has been removed (ps pump, A/C unit, intake, exhaust)

just want some advice.

 

im on the same boat help us out!

 

angles are key here. such a pita, youre much better off pulling the trans too.

 

you can pull it without spliting the trans and block, but you gotta take the axles and shift linkage off the tranny. no way around it

 

The shift linkage will come off with 2 12mm bolts and shift **** if you undo the exhaust from its hangers. Pull the cv shafts undo the wiring harness and drop the whole swap it only takes like 30-45min if you know what your doing good luck

 

well I have the block separated from the tranny already I just have to chain it up to my forklift and try to get the shaft out. If I can't get it off I'll just go ahead with taking the trans out too.

 

so the old ones out.. trans is still in but its loose from its mounts. time to put the new one in. haha

 

Let us know how it goes, I'm planning to do the same

 

ITS IN!!! it was kind of a bitch to get the cover plate on the bottom aligned I ended up having to grind a little section of because it was butting up against the axle and it wouldn't let me line up the input shaft. but its done and the engine is sitting on its mounts.

if you wanna do this make sure you unbolt the all the tranny mounts because you'll need that few inches of play to get it in/out

 

Grinding? Sounds like it was a pain in the ***.

Axles and the bitch pin aren't too hard.

 

It usually comes out ok if you take the crank pulley of first.

 

So totally unbolt the tranny from the mounts or just loosen them?

 

meh not too bad about 2 mins on the bench grinder.. probably not even necessary but it was cold outside and i wanted to close the shop door so i said f*ck it lets just grind this bi*ch.

I mostly wanted to avoid draining the tranny, removing/replacing the balljoints, taking off the axle nuts (bi*ch on its own.. things are bent into the axle, and basically fused on there from Canadian winters) and disconnecting the shift linkages.

yeah that would have been a good idea actually. that extra clearance would have been nice!! but again, I wanted to avoid removing/replacing that many vital components.

totally unbolt the tranny, support it with a jack, you have to take off the pass. side mount bracket that's on the tranny, and remove the three bolts from the forward lower mount.

 

also wanted to ask if someone just happens to read this, how do I make sure I put the dizzy on correctly?

 

Only goes in one way.

 

If you're going to unbolt all the mounts, why not just pull the entire thing all together? I realize it is a major pain in the *** to pull the engine alone, but you shouldn't have to unbolt the transmission completely, and you sure as hell shouldn't have to grind anything. Unbolting the rear transmission mount, a floor jack, a big pry bar, patience, someone to help you, and a lot of curse words should be enough.

 

Just pull the whole swap. It's enough of a pain putting the trans on a motor sitting on the garage floor, it'd more more of a pain getting the engine to make with the trans while in the car.

 

now she wont start she wants to but just wont quite fire up