791VX Remote Start Wont Crank
OK so i have dont searches with no help and even posted it on the wrong section to get flamed.
The Car is a 99 CIVIC LX
I have it installed but it wont start. It goes through the sequence but no crank.
I have set the check engine setting to off. also tried to tach learn. I hold it for about 2 minutes and it wont learn so i just set that off too. and set it to voltage
Anyone have this problem?
link to Manual ( i dont expect you to read through this i only provide it so maybe you have high alarm experience and can help)
http://www.directeddealers.com/manua...564V_07-05.pdf
Here is the diagram i followed. Perhaps this diagram is wrong?
9-00 Honda Civic Alarm Wire Diagram:
12volts white + ignition harness
Starter black/white + ignition harness
Second Starter N/A
Ignition black/yellow + ignition harness
Second Ignition yellow + ignition harness
Third Ignition N/A
Accessory white/black + ignition harness
The Car is a 99 CIVIC LX
I have it installed but it wont start. It goes through the sequence but no crank.
I have set the check engine setting to off. also tried to tach learn. I hold it for about 2 minutes and it wont learn so i just set that off too. and set it to voltage
Anyone have this problem?
link to Manual ( i dont expect you to read through this i only provide it so maybe you have high alarm experience and can help)
http://www.directeddealers.com/manua...564V_07-05.pdf
Here is the diagram i followed. Perhaps this diagram is wrong?
9-00 Honda Civic Alarm Wire Diagram:
12volts white + ignition harness
Starter black/white + ignition harness
Second Starter N/A
Ignition black/yellow + ignition harness
Second Ignition yellow + ignition harness
Third Ignition N/A
Accessory white/black + ignition harness
Either your clutch isn't jumped right, or you have the GREEN and PURPLE wires from the remote start backwards. With those two wires flipped, the car will start fine with the key, but won't start with the remote start as the PURPLE is the Starter output and would be feeding the key cylinder side of the starter wire instead of the STARTER side of the starter wire.
Cut starter wire in car... green wire to ignition cylinder side of starter wire, purple to "car" side of the starter wire
Cut starter wire in car... green wire to ignition cylinder side of starter wire, purple to "car" side of the starter wire
Ya that's how wired I see all the lights come on like it goes on position one and the fuel pump but then no ignition turn. It starts fine like you said with the key even tried switching the green and purple wire around but still wont crank. Fuses are good too.
Did you try sitting in the car and pushing the clutch pedal down and seeing if it started that way (with the remote start)? Just eliminate one thing at a time.
Ya . It still deosnt make the cranking noise to turn over. Unless I turn the key it so.t make that noise. Ill go check if the brain is giving power to the purple wire when I hit the auto start.
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Really that's all there is to it. If you remote start it, when it doesn't crank, does it keep the ignition on or does the ignition power down in a few seconds and try again?
If it's staying on, then the remote start thinks the car is already running for some reason and doing the take-over/pit stop mode instead of an initial start sequence.
Also, with your tach signal.. did you connect it to the tach test connector located at the drivers side firewall? (2-pin plug with a blue wire in it). If you did, it should have programmed the tach signal no problem.
Also, *just checking the simple things*, you didn't accidentally turn on the diesel wait to start option when you changed from tach to no tach? (You can set a 10 second, 15 second or 20 second delay before crank or something like that)
If it's staying on, then the remote start thinks the car is already running for some reason and doing the take-over/pit stop mode instead of an initial start sequence.
Also, with your tach signal.. did you connect it to the tach test connector located at the drivers side firewall? (2-pin plug with a blue wire in it). If you did, it should have programmed the tach signal no problem.
Also, *just checking the simple things*, you didn't accidentally turn on the diesel wait to start option when you changed from tach to no tach? (You can set a 10 second, 15 second or 20 second delay before crank or something like that)
it used to turn on then turn off within 5 seconds but i changed the setting to No engine check so now it just stays on till i command it to turn off. I also set the tach check to voltage with a crank time of 2 seconds. cause it wont learn the tach no matter how long i hold it for. and yea its connected but to the blue wire from the cluster of the green plug
Make sure NSSI lead, H3/1 black/white is getting a ground.
Move Tach input lead, H3/2 violet/white from the blue tach lead to one of the fuel injector control leads, [lead that is a diff. color at each injector].
Reprogram tech.
Make sure Hood switch input, H3/4 gray is not grounding when trying to remote start.
Get rid of CIS jumper and connect Status output lead, H3/5 blue/white to output of CIS.
If you got your Viper 791VX from anyplace other then an authorized DEI dealer your problem may be the unit itself. 94
Move Tach input lead, H3/2 violet/white from the blue tach lead to one of the fuel injector control leads, [lead that is a diff. color at each injector].
Reprogram tech.
Make sure Hood switch input, H3/4 gray is not grounding when trying to remote start.
Get rid of CIS jumper and connect Status output lead, H3/5 blue/white to output of CIS.
If you got your Viper 791VX from anyplace other then an authorized DEI dealer your problem may be the unit itself. 94
Make sure NSSI lead, H3/1 black/white is getting a ground.
Move Tach input lead, H3/2 violet/white from the blue tach lead to one of the fuel injector control leads, [lead that is a diff. color at each injector].
Reprogram tech.
Make sure Hood switch input, H3/4 gray is not grounding when trying to remote start.
Get rid of CIS jumper and connect Status output lead, H3/5 blue/white to output of CIS.
If you got your Viper 791VX from anyplace other then an authorized DEI dealer your problem may be the unit itself. 94
Move Tach input lead, H3/2 violet/white from the blue tach lead to one of the fuel injector control leads, [lead that is a diff. color at each injector].
Reprogram tech.
Make sure Hood switch input, H3/4 gray is not grounding when trying to remote start.
Get rid of CIS jumper and connect Status output lead, H3/5 blue/white to output of CIS.
If you got your Viper 791VX from anyplace other then an authorized DEI dealer your problem may be the unit itself. 94
With the unit kicking on and shutting off 5 seconds later, to me that's it's remote start sequence which means the NSS and the Hood pin should be fine (otherwise IIRC.. and it's been a few years since my last 790/791 install obviously) it wouldn't do the sequence at all.
If it's kicking on the ignition and what not, then it's doing the right stuff, which means either a clutch switch issue, backwards starter feeds, or no power on the starter line.. and now that I just typed that make sure all the fuses for the +12 red feeds (red, red/white, etc) are ALL GOOD. They split those feeds to the different outputs, and the feed for the starter output may be shot...
The reason it's staying on is because it's not checking for engine signal (via voltage or tach), you may want to turn that back on just as a safety for your starter measure.
Hook up the red lead of your DMM into the purple wire's pin at the remote start, set to DC, and ground the black. "start" the remote start, and see if you see that purple wire go to +12 a few seconds after the ignition turns on.. if you have engine checking on it would be easier the car will shut off after the crank-no-start deal. If you don't see a voltage, check the fuses as I said above, or as fcm said, you may have a bad unit. If you DO see +12 volt, then it has to be something else such as the clutch switch or something along those lines (seeing as it still starts with the key just fine).
If it's kicking on the ignition and what not, then it's doing the right stuff, which means either a clutch switch issue, backwards starter feeds, or no power on the starter line.. and now that I just typed that make sure all the fuses for the +12 red feeds (red, red/white, etc) are ALL GOOD. They split those feeds to the different outputs, and the feed for the starter output may be shot...
The reason it's staying on is because it's not checking for engine signal (via voltage or tach), you may want to turn that back on just as a safety for your starter measure.
Hook up the red lead of your DMM into the purple wire's pin at the remote start, set to DC, and ground the black. "start" the remote start, and see if you see that purple wire go to +12 a few seconds after the ignition turns on.. if you have engine checking on it would be easier the car will shut off after the crank-no-start deal. If you don't see a voltage, check the fuses as I said above, or as fcm said, you may have a bad unit. If you DO see +12 volt, then it has to be something else such as the clutch switch or something along those lines (seeing as it still starts with the key just fine).
ok so tested the lines. and im getting 12v in the purple line when the sequence kicks in.
i moved the tach wire to the blue wire under the hood by the shock tower. but when i do this the sequence wont start anymore. if ground that wire it will start the sequence but wont crank.
i moved the tach wire to the blue wire under the hood by the shock tower. but when i do this the sequence wont start anymore. if ground that wire it will start the sequence but wont crank.
I'd leave it hooked to the tach test signal and try re-learning the tach. Either way, that's not your issue.
If the starter (purple) line IS feeding the starter line, and the car isn't starting, then I'm still going to say it's something with the clutch switch. Even if the ONLY wires you had hooked up were the constant +12 feeds and JUST the starter line, and you hit the remote start option, the car would crank but wouldn't start as there's no ignition power.
But you said you held the clutch down and did the remote start sequence and it still didn't crank, correct? and the Purple should still be feeding the car side of the starter wire the +12.. which throws another kink into the "what's wrong here"...
If the starter (purple) line IS feeding the starter line, and the car isn't starting, then I'm still going to say it's something with the clutch switch. Even if the ONLY wires you had hooked up were the constant +12 feeds and JUST the starter line, and you hit the remote start option, the car would crank but wouldn't start as there's no ignition power.
But you said you held the clutch down and did the remote start sequence and it still didn't crank, correct? and the Purple should still be feeding the car side of the starter wire the +12.. which throws another kink into the "what's wrong here"...
actually the complete opposite side of you. but yea held the clutch down and it wont crank. the problem with my tach learning is it never learns. i hold it down for 3 minutes and the light never comes on. thus the reason i switched the engine check off.
I have to agree with rjr162, if you get power on the purple, [starter output] when remote cycle is on, the engine should crank, unless you are not connected to the starter lead, CIL is not bypassed properly or there is something else wrong.
Try this... use a jumper lead from 12V+, [white lead] and touch it to the starter lead, [black/white] does engine crank? 94
PS, can you start the car with the key without stepping on clutch?
Try this... use a jumper lead from 12V+, [white lead] and touch it to the starter lead, [black/white] does engine crank? 94
PS, can you start the car with the key without stepping on clutch?
Last edited by fcm; Apr 1, 2011 at 04:24 PM. Reason: add PS
so what i would do is try to remote start the vehicle with the key in the ignition, i dont remember but your key could have a chip in it....... if so your going to need to buy a module to retain that information or the older style pill box module which you actually have to sacrifice a key into and then a halo goes around the key cylinder sending the information from the key allowing the car to start
Tach should have been taken care of via the Blue tach test connector by the drivers side shock tower.
The 99's *shouldn't* have a chip in the key. That was started later on the Civic if I recall correctly.
Did you test what FCM suggested and try starting the car with the key and the clutch NOT depressed to see if it starts?
The 99's *shouldn't* have a chip in the key. That was started later on the Civic if I recall correctly.
Did you test what FCM suggested and try starting the car with the key and the clutch NOT depressed to see if it starts?
Nope, car wont start without my clutch being pressed. I havent messed with it. Kinda of given up all hopes. its been giving me a headache. ill probably give it a few days and try again.
Last edited by Domani99; Apr 5, 2011 at 07:42 AM.
Then unless you wired the status output H3/5 blue/white to the CIS output, [blue/black] the engine will not crank during remote start.
Did you not say you have tried remote start while sitting in the car and stepping on clutch and that also did not work? 94
Did you not say you have tried remote start while sitting in the car and stepping on clutch and that also did not work? 94
Then unless you wired the status output H3/5 blue/white to the CIS output, [blue/black] the engine will not crank during remote start.
Did you not say you have tried remote start while sitting in the car and stepping on clutch and that also did not work?
I always use an injector control lead, [lead that is a diff. color on all injectors] for tach it is a much stronger signal then the tach signal at tach test connector. 94
Did you not say you have tried remote start while sitting in the car and stepping on clutch and that also did not work?
I always use an injector control lead, [lead that is a diff. color on all injectors] for tach it is a much stronger signal then the tach signal at tach test connector. 94
Last edited by Domani99; Apr 5, 2011 at 07:43 AM.
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