VT Gauge Cluster Installation Review

I am a very meticulous person, thus the project took approximately two hours; if it takes you longer, well, it's probably because you broke something. Remember that you aren't wrenching on the suspension - this stuff is kinda delicate - and your project will end well.

Parts and Tools

- USDM 1990-1 Si cluster
- UKDM VT cluster (I have no idea what applicable years)
- #2 "Stubby" Phillips
- #2 standard length Phillips
- 1/4" standard length flathead


Removing the Hood

Slide your driver's seat to its furthest position and get comfy, which isn't all that difficult if you have the original Si seats (I swear these were designed for my scrawny butt). Drop the steering column to the lowest position. Four screws retain the hood - two up top and two below. The two screws up top are close to the windshield under cover plates; it is easiest to roll the window down and work from outside the vehicle to remove these (the "Stubby" is quite useful here). The hood retains three control devices to unplug - the rear defroster, dimmer, and hazard switch. Slide the hood slightly forward and disconnect the three plugs from the rear, then carefully remove the hood.

Removing the Cluster

Four screws retain the cluster to metal mounting brackets; these are easily noted as the screws thread through the black plastic cluster housing. Remove these four screws carefully so as not to drop them. I highly recommend removing the fuse panel access below the steering column at this point as this will allow any screws dropped to fall directly to the floor (yes, I dropped one). Three electrical connectors are on the back of the cluster - simply depress the levers and remove each. Also, the speedometer cable must be removed as well - simply depress the lever and pull the cable housing away from the cluster, then remove the cluster.

Disassembling the Clusters

Two wires run from the top of the cluster to a bulb for the Brights Indicator - twist the bulb and remove the wiring from the tabs of the white cluster case. The black cover plate housing is retained to the gauge cluster by five locking tabs. Depress the two tabs on the bottom and slide them forward until free. Carefully grip the clear face plate and pull down slightly - this should cause the top tabs to drop free of the locking pins. I cannot stress enough do NOT be forceful. It will come apart abruptly, make sure you have a proper grip.

Removing the Gauges on the USDM Cluster

The USDM cluster has a circuit board framed in plastic casing mounted to the back of the cluster - this will need to be removed. Disconnect the two wires secured by screws. Then, use the flathead to depress the locking tab closest to the speedometer, then repeat the procedure on the locking tab closest to the tachometer. Pull the plastic casing directly away from the cluster backing to expose the gauge retaining screws.

Remove the tachometer and speedometer first. The tachometer has two retaining screws and the speedometer has three. Be careful not to drop the gauges. Next remove the six screws retaining the fuel/temperature gauge combo.

Removing the UKDM gauges is the same process, minus the circuit board in plastic casing. However, the two screws used for retaining wires for the circuit board in plastic casing also secure the gauges and will have to be removed as well.

Reassembly

I highly recommend doing a touch of spot cleaning (nothing abrasive). Insert the fuel/temperature combo first, then the speedometer and tachometer. Secure the gauge retaining screws in back, replace the circuit board plastic casing, and reconnect the two associated wires with the circuit board plastic casing. Replace the Brights Indicator bulb and its associated wiring. The rest of the assembly is the reverse of disassembly. I highly recommend testing the cluster before securing the hood.

Best of luck and happy motoring!

PS - H-T member "Jockone" had two of these for sale when I posted this thread...

 

Glad to see you got your cluster now, and got the housing switched over. That is a very detailed review indeed. I managed to removed the gauges out of both clusters and swap them in under 20 mins Great results though, they are certainly a wonderful looking oem option for those swapping in a high revving vtec swap

Here is the most current one i'm running in my car before i swapped it in

 

I opted for the MPH cluster - while I think America should join the rest of the world using the metric system, my mental mathematical conversion ability is not that strong. ; ) I spent twenty minutes tooling over the electrical panel deciding if the UKDM gauge cluster would work without having to swap gauges, or what wiring would require pin swaps. I even considered swapping the electrical panel (which I am still convinced holds possibility without having to crack the casing open. Eventually, I ended up separating the cases. When reassembling, I considered swapping the indicator light cover as I preferred the VT, but the clear viewing window was scratched on the VT and the indicator light cover is glued to the black cover plate housing. C'est la vie.

I used to have a 1988 Si but don't recall if it had a dimmer switch. I have read the dimmer switch does not work with the VT cluster, so should I simply leave it disconnected? I read somewhere that two wires needed to be inserted into one pin to attain full brightness. Heard anything like that, Deetz?

 

Being i live in Canada, i wanted the cluster in km's, so it's perfect for me Switching over the gauges from one housing to another was no big deal, don't feel bad about doing that at all. btw, that clear plastic cover you look through to see everything can be purchased separately and give your cluster that look of "new".

As far as the dimmer goes, i am sure it could be wired in. I never bothered with it, as i was satisfied with it's preset performance as Honda meant for it in all European countries

 

Does anybody know how to wire up the VT cluster to a 90 civic Si???? I really need help!

I wired up some of it, but two wires are still free. They are Blue/yellow, and Red.

So far my RPM's work, mph/khm work, gas and temperature work.

When i open the driver door the ALB light flashes. What is that??? Anti lock brakes?

 

Here are some pics of it.
I already wired the other side correctly.

 

Why didn't you just swap the vt gauges onto the original cluster? I did this on my usdm si cluster with an EDM gauges. Took all of 20 minutes

 

I would have, but when i got my shell it came with no cluster at all.

I saw a picture of how it should look, but it was for a crx some of the colors are different.

 

Anybody got it on their 90-91 civic si rewired?

I would really appreciate picks of it!!

Also, has anyone wired up the low gas light?

 

My thoughts exactly

So? Go p/u a used cluster from the wrecker for $15 and save yourself a bunch of hassel

 

i have one with broken gauges if your interested pm me.

 

Im pretty much done switching the pins.
Wasn't hard at all. Just gotta figure out the rest of the pins.

Unless your already have the extra cluster, whats the point of spending more cash.

Theres no cutting involved.

 

Initially, I was going to shun you for hijacking my thread, but then realized a thread already existed in the FAQ for wiring the cluster. So now I'll just shun you for not properly searching. Hope that helps...

PS - Deetz, in the link below, the author discusses the connection of two wires regarding the dimmer switch to regain full brightness on the climate controls - that was the missing article I couldn't find - but I think it only pertains to USDM models.

http://www.angelfire.com/ca/DrOhm/SiRcluster.html

 

Haha. Still a noob i am!
Thanks bro, got it working better now.

 

Kewl!

 

Thanks much for the write up, helped a lot and saved me a lot of time!