under new topic heres link
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...6#post44916216

 

Do you have a short somewhere?

 

you sure you have the wiring right? normally you fry IAT sensor but plugging the evap purge or IACV connector into them.

 

i tryed switching back to obd2 iat and it blew up like a lighting bolt i need a wiring diagram so i can re wire the sensor everything else is good

 

can i wire strait from ecu does the wire go into any juctions or strait to iat and where do i run the other wire, ground,.? help is highly appreciative

 

Do the wire colors in the IAT and EVAP connectors match to the sensors?

 

i have tested ohms and voltage there to spec no opens or shorts the obd2 harness is a little diff than obd0 or 1 (wire colors for iat) is there a differnt voltage for p75 over the p2p ecu

 

colors match up via obd2 pinout

 

2 ma audio 18s couldnt have cause the problem could they? i have a big *** zero gauge going thru the car installed them when we swapped it

 

What are the wire colors? Post pictures.

What voltage do you measure at the IAT connector?

Also post pictures of the blown IAT sensor.

 

thanks for the help got it fix had it backwards with evap like you guys said i was not to sure about obd2 but i have obd0 1 down pat but there is another issue that popped up after the fix code 20 electronic load detector were is fuse for this underdash or hood
thanks hondatechers

 

i live in dsm ia no emmisions here so all that evap stuff is gone

 

isnt this the sensor that can also burn the resistor in the ecu if you hook them up backwords?think its q31 resistor or somthin?

 

your correct that thing has already melted off but that for evap. i think im dealing with the fuse 15 problem it flashes a 20 and a 41 eld and prim ho2s otherwise runs gravy it this ignorable or a seriuos issue if unchecked? thanks
..btw.. ecu is tested good beside evap currently pr4 was p75 but ran irratic. ecu is not the issue we have 10 diffent ecus all same codes

 

bump speedo no worker either