i have an eg hatch with the master cylinder,brake booster, and prop valve uninstalled. the previous owner removed them to do a tuck but never got around to it. ive installed rotors and calipers before but never did anything with the mc, booster, or prop valve.
what tools are needed?
and can i get a write-up on this install?
any help would be appreciated

 

Are you just going to put the old stuff back in? Now might be the time to replace those parts with new ones depending on how many miles are on them. You may also think about upgrading the master cylinder (mc). I'm not sure the size of the eg's, but I know a popular upgrade for an ek is an ITR 1" mc. Also, if you have or plan on having rear discs, you may want a better proportioning valve. Just some things to consider while you have it all apart.

I have never done a booster or mc on a Honda, but have done many on BMWs. Hardest part really is bleeding the brakes. You will probably want to start by installing the mc to the booster. Then put the booster onto the firewall. Get inside the car and line up the push rod shaft from the booster to the brake pedal. There should be some sort of pin and clip to hold it to the brake pedal. Once you have done that, you can actually use the brake pedal to help you pull the booster to the firewall. Then bolt the booster in (from inside the car) to the firewall. Hopefully the guy before you was nice to the brake lines and did not bend them all up. Once you have the booster & mc mounted, it should be pretty easy to tell where each brake lines go to the mc. Just thread the lines in with your fingers so you do not strip the threads. Sometimes it helps to push the lines in a little. Once you have them all in finger tight, tighten them the rest of the way with a wrench (or line wrench if you have one).

For the prop valve, just make sure you have it in the right direction and all the lines are going to the right ports. You may want to put the prop valve in before the booster & mc just to give yourself a little extra room. Same thing, just thread the lines all in finger tight and then tighten the rest with a wrench.

Now the fun part, bleeding. Make sure you have plenty of brake fluid. fill the resevior on the mc. This is going to take 2 people unless you have air tools. Start with the wheel furthers from the booster and work your way to the booster. So RR, LR, RF, and LF. You may have to bleed the brakes a few times to get all of the air out. Basically you just have someone pump the brakes until the pedal starts to stiffen up (which may not happen at first until some of the air comes out), then have them hold the brake pedal down. Then you crack the bleeder screw and let the air out while the other person pushes the pedal to the floor. Repeat until there is no more air coming out and the pedal has got some feel to it. Do that at all 4 wheels and then go through it again. Make sure you watch the brake fluid level in the resivior. If it runs out while you are doing all of this, you will just be pumping more air into the brake system.

Get yourself a Honda manual or a Chilton book. I'm sure they can explain it better then I just did. Now may also be a good time to replace any gaskets or o-rings. Hope this helps and good luck.

 

I just did a front swap and replaced everything all around as well. If your lines are all there, its pretty simple, just match up the lines and tighten but dont overtighten. All the lines that attach to the MC and prop valve call for 14ft lbs torque.

For clarification of above: Proper bleeding procedure is: Passenger Rear, Driver Front, Driver Rear, Passenger Front

Be sure to bench bleed the MC before you put it on to get fluid inside of there. And I went to Advanced Auto (Ohio) and you can rent a hand vacuum bleeder. Works excellent! Open a bleeder, pump to get fluid coming through, stop and refill the reservior, then continue. Did all brakes this way then flushed the clutch fluid as well. Or do it as mentioned above with a friend.

And as he said, a Manual is your friend. I couldnt have done without it as I'm strict on bolt torque specs. Do yourself a favor and get one. It'll show exactly how everything goes back together.