How to test evey component in your distributor
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How to test evey component in your distributor
How to test a distributor(not just the coil)
When you are are having a problem with spark or driveablity of your car due to a distributor related CEL there are a few things to check not just the coil. Every sensor coil and ignitor can be tested. So lets go through it. This explains the first pic on the bottom. If you have no spark at all and your ecu fuse isnt blow you should first test the coil before you try an ecu or anything like that. You will need an ohmmeter for this. So remove the cap and rotor and the plastic sheild and read the instructions in the first pic. I dont think this needs much explaining. Its very easy even if you never used an ohmmeter before. Just to be safe thought I would unplug the distributor.
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If this checks out and you still have no spark the next step would be to check the igniter. Take a look at the second picture.v
v
V
This test can set you in the right direction if the distributor isnt the issue at all. The yellow green or thick white(pre-obd1) should have power and if it doesnt check it for continuity. If there is no continuity it would indicate a break in the wire or poor wiring. If there is continuity and no power that would indicate a problem with a ground, bad ecu, bad fuse. Check my other threads if the car is throwing a code 4 or only revving to around 3200 rpm and hitting a rev limiter.
To test the crank,tdc,and cyp sensors unplug the distributor and on the distributor size of the plug test for resistance between the terminals of each individual sensor. They should test between 350 and 700 ohms depending upon temperature. If you have a CEL form one of these sensor and they are between the specified resistances then the problem is in the wiring. So there you have it. If you think that your distributor is bad here is a sure fire way to find out. View third pic
v
v
v
When you are are having a problem with spark or driveablity of your car due to a distributor related CEL there are a few things to check not just the coil. Every sensor coil and ignitor can be tested. So lets go through it. This explains the first pic on the bottom. If you have no spark at all and your ecu fuse isnt blow you should first test the coil before you try an ecu or anything like that. You will need an ohmmeter for this. So remove the cap and rotor and the plastic sheild and read the instructions in the first pic. I dont think this needs much explaining. Its very easy even if you never used an ohmmeter before. Just to be safe thought I would unplug the distributor.
v
v
V
If this checks out and you still have no spark the next step would be to check the igniter. Take a look at the second picture.v
v
V
This test can set you in the right direction if the distributor isnt the issue at all. The yellow green or thick white(pre-obd1) should have power and if it doesnt check it for continuity. If there is no continuity it would indicate a break in the wire or poor wiring. If there is continuity and no power that would indicate a problem with a ground, bad ecu, bad fuse. Check my other threads if the car is throwing a code 4 or only revving to around 3200 rpm and hitting a rev limiter.
To test the crank,tdc,and cyp sensors unplug the distributor and on the distributor size of the plug test for resistance between the terminals of each individual sensor. They should test between 350 and 700 ohms depending upon temperature. If you have a CEL form one of these sensor and they are between the specified resistances then the problem is in the wiring. So there you have it. If you think that your distributor is bad here is a sure fire way to find out. View third pic
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v
v
Last edited by rollinswapshop; Mar 15, 2011 at 03:55 PM.
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Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Mar 15, 2011 03:11 PM
