LC-1 install - MPG drop?
I installed my innovate LC-1 sensor and controller recently in preparation to boost and I have noticed a drop in fuel milage.
Here is my set up:
B18c1 block
Ls crank
Eagle rods w/Wisco flat top pistons(cr is around 10.7:1)
Itr cams w/ GE cam gears (0,0)
RMF narrow replica header
Port matched Older skunk 2 intake mani
310cc injectors
Walbro 255 fuel pump (fuel pressure @ idle 43 psi)
Sk2 throttle body
Ls trans
P28 w/ Neptune RTP and tuner view
I wired the LC-1 as such:
Red - ECU power
Blue- Ground
White- Ground
Yellow- D14
Brown- D10 (0v = 7.35, 5v = 22.39)
Black- not connected (used for calibration)
I installed the LC-1 followed the set up and calibration instructions. I no longer have the OEM primary o2 connected and don’t have any CELs or anything. The car runs and idles fine but im now getting like 210-220 miles for a tank. Maybe I don’t have Neptune set up right or I have the LC-1 programmed to the wrong voltages. Any help would be much appreciated
Here is my set up:
B18c1 block
Ls crank
Eagle rods w/Wisco flat top pistons(cr is around 10.7:1)
Itr cams w/ GE cam gears (0,0)
RMF narrow replica header
Port matched Older skunk 2 intake mani
310cc injectors
Walbro 255 fuel pump (fuel pressure @ idle 43 psi)
Sk2 throttle body
Ls trans
P28 w/ Neptune RTP and tuner view
I wired the LC-1 as such:
Red - ECU power
Blue- Ground
White- Ground
Yellow- D14
Brown- D10 (0v = 7.35, 5v = 22.39)
Black- not connected (used for calibration)
I installed the LC-1 followed the set up and calibration instructions. I no longer have the OEM primary o2 connected and don’t have any CELs or anything. The car runs and idles fine but im now getting like 210-220 miles for a tank. Maybe I don’t have Neptune set up right or I have the LC-1 programmed to the wrong voltages. Any help would be much appreciated
Sorry, I'm not completely familiar with what's what on the ECU anymore. Used to know, but my brain has since bumped that knowledge out to make room for school lol.
D14 = narrowband input?
Are you still running a narrowband at all with the primary gone? Did you get rid of closed loop?
I'm going to suspect the LC-1 is either reading differently as a narrowband, or you have completely gotten rid of closed loop operations and are now running totally on the MAP.
I prefer to run always on open loop, and just tune the car for around town driving. Especially when switching to aftermarket O2 sensors.
D14 = narrowband input?
Are you still running a narrowband at all with the primary gone? Did you get rid of closed loop?
I'm going to suspect the LC-1 is either reading differently as a narrowband, or you have completely gotten rid of closed loop operations and are now running totally on the MAP.
I prefer to run always on open loop, and just tune the car for around town driving. Especially when switching to aftermarket O2 sensors.
yeah d14 is the narroband input on the ecu and the yellow wire is the analog output from the WB. ill probably call my tuner and ask him if i set it up ok. worst case ill have him re-set it up when i go to get tuned for boost but i saw this as a red flag.
Ok, then yeah that's probably it. The 0-1V narrowband output is giving out different readings than your stock O2 sensor is. Does the wideband output seem on point? Closed loop you should be hitting ~14.7ish while cruising and then in boost I'd figure your tuner would have put you at around 11.5 - 12.0. If the wideband output seems really off to you, I'd point the figure at calibration. If not, it's something to do with narrowband output either being off or just different. (If the wideband is right, then so is the narrow)
Since you have tunerview, check to see if you are running closed loop or not. I'm not familiar with Neptune's software layout, so I can't tell you how to find it, but I'd imagine it would be in a section for fuel or wideband. And if you are REALLY comfortable, and I don't necessarily recommend this unless you do understand what's going on in the software, but I prefer to just simply run in open loop and tune low load for ~14.5-15 AFR. It takes a little time, but it's definitely worth it, but like I said, don't do this unless you are totally comfortable with using the software and tweaking the low load fuel settings.
The reason I prefer running on open loop is pretty simple. Closed loop the ECU makes it's own corrections, and you're running much larger injectors now.
Since you have tunerview, check to see if you are running closed loop or not. I'm not familiar with Neptune's software layout, so I can't tell you how to find it, but I'd imagine it would be in a section for fuel or wideband. And if you are REALLY comfortable, and I don't necessarily recommend this unless you do understand what's going on in the software, but I prefer to just simply run in open loop and tune low load for ~14.5-15 AFR. It takes a little time, but it's definitely worth it, but like I said, don't do this unless you are totally comfortable with using the software and tweaking the low load fuel settings.
The reason I prefer running on open loop is pretty simple. Closed loop the ECU makes it's own corrections, and you're running much larger injectors now.
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