As stated above.

The rundown-
I just finished putting my motor back together after getting the head milled (.003") and a valve job done as i had a oil leak between the head and the
block by cylinder #4, and a compression reading that was about 15 psi lower
than the average on again, cylinder #4. But anyway, after finishing up the last
details, I fired it up, and the engine RPM shot up to 3100 RPM.

After securing the loose TPS which i previously forgotten to tighten down,
adjusted it accordingly, and put some slack in the throttle cable, the engine
RPM came down to about 2500. At this point, im at a loss of what to do next.
All of the fittings that go into the IM have been teflon taped, and have thread
sealer on them, and the hoses on them have been clamped tightly. Being that I no longer has the awesome paper gasket that goes between the IM and TB, I used RTV sealant on those mating surfaces. With the throttle stop screw adjusted all the way down, and the throttle cable detached, this is how she sits. Im guessing I have a vaccuum leak, although there is no surging/fluxuations in engine RPM. The check engine light isnt on, and if there are any codes, I do not know to pull them from a pre Obd2 system.

The setup-
93 Del sol Si
Bone stock B16a block
P72-2 head (dont know the reason for the mix-match, its the way I bought the motor)
Blox B cams and gears
Supertech VT
BBK IM/TB
3' SRI
Crappy DC 4-2-1 header
P30 ECU (which has been "chipped" as the guy I bought it from said)

Up until 3 weeks ago when I pulled the motor, the car ran without a hitch with a S2 IM and my single jingle TB. That being said, I bought this IM/TB
because I plan on boosting soon, and it seemed like a opportune time to
got ahead and put it on while the motor was out of the car.

Any imput, suggestions, or flamin is welcome.

 

It says you live in LA. Is this accurate? Perhaps you should take off the fitv and snug the set screw back down? Make sure tps is plugged in. Does your cel come on briefly when you start the car then go off? Check.the sticky on how to check your ecu for check engine codes.

Also might try taking out the "backup fuse" under the hood to reset your ecu now that you tightened the tps back down.

 

If you mean Louisiana, then yes, and im not sure what FITV stands for.
The TPS is def plugged in, and is not crossed with the MAP connector.
The CEL does come on when the ignition is on, but not once its running.

Tomorrow ill check for codes and reset the computer when i get home from school.

 

you dont turn the screw all the way in on the FITV. it will rev high its has to set correct. the FITV is located under the throttle body

 

Right, not supposed to tighten it all the way down but its what controls the idle at a cold start.

 

spray carb cleaner around all mating areas

 

He's telling you to do that to find vacuum leaks. If there is a leak the cleaner will get in it and cause the idle to spike.

 

So with the idle screw being adjusted all the way down will cause the high idle at operating temp?

The carb cleaner was going to be my next step lol.

 

Well, when i got home, i started to try some things as you guys suggested

First, i reset the ECU, easy, no problem.

Next I turned up the throttle screw, bit more pain in the ***, but ok.

( honestly I dont think we are on the same page with this screw)

Turned it up enough that the blade was slightly cracked.


With that, I stared it up, and the engine instantly shot up to 4,500 rpm, hovered for a second, then heard some dreaded noises from the engine, and it died.

Upon inspection I found that cam gears are way out of alignment, so unfortunatly, im guessing the valves became friends.

Alas, i would like to set everything back correctly first to see it the motor turns over ok, which leads me to this question.


The crank pulley has 4 notches on it, which one of those are correct to line up with the mark on the timing cover to be set at TDC?

This is going to be a fun night...

 

the mark that is by itself needs to be lined up with the pointer. put some white-out on it or something to distinguish it. the rest are ignition timing marks.

 

Much appreciated

Got her all lined up again, and cranked her over a few times. No noises or
anything, not that it necessarily means anything.

 

Here's a key question. Why was your head so out of time?

 

T-belt jumped. No apparent damage done, purrs pretty smooth at 2600 RPM lol.

Will continue diagnosis tomorrow after work.

 

Just hope so lol...

 

okay glad to hear lol. so what your need to do now is look up "how to calibrate TPS".

then, make sure your throttle cable is loose and not holding the throttle plate open.

 

I took the throttle cable off after the first time I stared the engine.

I also read up and calibrated the tps are you told me, but im having a oddity
with that.

I adjusted the TPS to where it read 0.47v at idle. (Info I found said around 0.45v) My situation is that when it is set at 0.47v, the engine surges, but if I adjust it out to 0.6-0.7v the idle will smooth back out (back to the previous 2400 RPM). Could this symptom be due to another problem?

And I finally got some carb cleaner, and I did find a Vac leak around the IACV, and if you look at it slightly, looks like there is a little bit of space between it and the IM. As soon as the engine cools down, I'll be getting froggy with that...

 

I read something about covering the holes inside the TB as kind of a test for the IACV and the FITV. Im just kind of confused about one segment though.

"Next cover both holes up with your fingers. The car should sputter and die (or almost die). If it does then the source of your crappy idle is the IACV. Replace it."

So in other words, hes saying that if nothing happens when you cover up the holes, your IACV is good? Just doesnt make sense to me.

 

if you cover up both holes and your car dies, then that means you have no vacuum leaks and should be happy.

 

After I attempted to seal the vac leak around the IACV I covered both holes, which slowed the engine speed to a crawl, and when i uncovered them, the IACV went all shitty, and caused the engine to surge (but it smoothed out when i unplugged it). I reset the ECU and that problem went away.

My attempt to seal the vac leak brought the rpm down to 1300, which is a sigh of relief, but its still leaking slightly....

Round 2 tomorrow

 

Get the proper gasket(s) lol...

 

The O-ring on the IACV is only.....19 years old LOL
But thats not the problem.