Ok, this is the same civic I performed the automatic mini me swap
Everything is running great except for one small problem:
Because the new cylinder head was milled a bit to get it smoothed out, the timing is now slightly retarded (only about 2 degrees), even with the distributor advanced all the way.
Just trying to get it back to zero timing because it uses a little too much gas at low RPM's

I was told I have a few options:

Adjustable Cam gear-I bought one, didn't have the cam key.
Bought the cam key and dummied it up on my old cylinder head.
The cam gear wiggles a bit even with the key in there.
I'd rather not have that little piece of metal snap and my cam jump massive time, trashing my engine.

MSD adjustable ignition: I'd be ok with this, but it's bookoo $$ and alot bigger headache then I'd wanna fool with.
So that's out

My only other option I was thinking of would be to dremel out those slots on the distributor housing, allowing me to turn it further (like I said, only need about 2 more degrees to zero it)

It would cost next to nothing to do (have the tools and a spare distributor housing)

Is there anything dangerous in doing this?
(just can't find any sources on it anywhere-most just get adjustable cam gears, but that seems a bit extreme for a daily driver NA car)
Plus, I don't really need to adjust the cam timing, just the ignition timing
I'd probably only have to remove an 1/8 inch of metal from those slots to get it where I want it.

Again, any danger in doing this?
Thanks.
^^

 

Anyone?
I don't want to have to get a new coil or something if this is dangerous to do!

 

use an adjustable cam gear For every .012" (some say .010") shaved from the head the cam timing is retarded 1 deg. then get a fuel pressure regulator and maybe cut back the fuel alil if its rich. maybe a tune up cap rotor and plugs are weak.

 

What kind of cam gear did you get? Not one of those cheap Ebay knock-offs I hope.

 

Well, it IS an ebay cam gear...probably should have spent the extra 50 bucks and gotten the AEM Tru-Time (sp) one
^^;;

As for the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, all were replaced during the head swap back before xmas
(the ignition coil was replaced back last October with the distributor)

Hell, I'll just get a more reputable cam gear that comes with its own cam key and try that with the FPR

Just wondering though, what are the danger of grinding an extra 1/8 in or so out of those housing slots anyway?
Could turning it too far fry the ignition coil or something?
oO