lsv w/ctrs
To all my honda techers I ran my car hard for the first time after breaking it in, I was sitting in my car just listening to it idle (as I was mad impressed on the run I just had) I noticed my oil light blinking very very dim so I checked the oil all good, checked for any leaks, nothin there. So turned the car off and restarted it, the light was gone. The next day when I took off for work everything was ok. When I exited the freeway I noticed it blinking again and noticed my idle pretty low like 700 rpms and wondering if that could be the cause?????? OR DO I HAVE BIGGER PROBLEMS UGHHHH
How is the top end sounding? Any valve noise? Maybe you should invest in a set of gauges (oil pressure, water temp) as they are miles better than the idiot lights that come stock in cars nowadays..
A few things might cause this from my experience.
One, your stock oil pan does not have baffles so if you take a corner hard, the oil sloshes around causing the light to flicker.
Two, you have a smashed or dented oil pan or pickup preventing the oil from suctioning properly.
Three, bad oil pump...never had one fail but it can happen but I don't know the signs.
Four, did you make sure to run an oil line to the back of the head for your LS-Vtec? You would really be surprised to see some of the people out there. Some think that a vtec head is a simple bolt-on affair lol, many burned up cam journals.
Five, check your Vtec solenoid screen, although this blocked would also prevent vtec from engaging sometimes, many LS-V's suffer this problem after doing some machine work such as tapping/plugging the oil hole, or drilling out the dowel pin holes. The remaining metal shavings can get trapped in the solenoid screen preventing proper oil flow.
That's all off the top of my head but a few good ones to consider.
One, your stock oil pan does not have baffles so if you take a corner hard, the oil sloshes around causing the light to flicker.
Two, you have a smashed or dented oil pan or pickup preventing the oil from suctioning properly.
Three, bad oil pump...never had one fail but it can happen but I don't know the signs.
Four, did you make sure to run an oil line to the back of the head for your LS-Vtec? You would really be surprised to see some of the people out there. Some think that a vtec head is a simple bolt-on affair lol, many burned up cam journals.
Five, check your Vtec solenoid screen, although this blocked would also prevent vtec from engaging sometimes, many LS-V's suffer this problem after doing some machine work such as tapping/plugging the oil hole, or drilling out the dowel pin holes. The remaining metal shavings can get trapped in the solenoid screen preventing proper oil flow.
That's all off the top of my head but a few good ones to consider.
thanks for the info guys. (crx/toda) yea ctr pistons, the head is ported and polished but stock gsr cams. I have put about 1500 miles on the new/rebuilt motor. The issue just started happening!! (jdmboyef9) I already checked pan also switch the screen for the solenoid and gasket when we put the block together. I am going to check oil pressure with a gauge (1990edsedan) I personally am not a fan of a bunch of gauges!! but the head sounds good no irregular noise!! It almost seems when the car get's hot my rpms are dropping to much and that is when the light flickers but I would rather change a oil pump and not spin a bearing!!!
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Check the pressure first. If it's iffy...Change the pump.
Get it tuned ASAP! I'm not trying to bash on your build but you could have put in a set of P30 pistons and netted better results than using CTR pistons. I hope you have some aftermarket injectors for when you hit the dyno.
Get it tuned ASAP! I'm not trying to bash on your build but you could have put in a set of P30 pistons and netted better results than using CTR pistons. I hope you have some aftermarket injectors for when you hit the dyno.
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