so i bought some koni yellows with ground controls coilovers with top hats.
550 front and 450 rear

so i only put the front ones on

and i went for a ride around the block and i must say it was bouncy as F***

did i not install them on right or what?

i also have the spring rates of 350f and 250r i believe(.64 front and .44 rear)
am i better of with these rates or the higher ones?

i dont want a bumpy ride
want a nice smooth ride with no finger gaps.
tire barely tucking

thanks for reading honda tech

 

i have the same exact rates and set up with all top hats, not bouncy at all unless its a really big bump. i believe they even have installation instructions. you might've forgotten something.

 

How low are you? Have to factor in suspension travel.

 

There was a thread just like this not too long ago. Owner did the exact same thing. LOL

 

Maybe you installed the rear springs in the front?

 

How about you install the rear too. And make sure everything was install correctly. Set the ride height and tuned the shock. Super low mad tight jdm hella drop scraping oil pan and header will not give a smooth ride quality.

 

it should be stiff with 550/450 but shouldnt be bouncy

 

I would check for instructions but I bought them used

And today im going to also put the struts/coilovers in the rear....

If I have the f550 r450 so how stiff should I have the shocks?

 

Look at the link in my sig, make sure you installed them this way, except for that rubber dust boot. Make sure you didn't try to put the OEM metal dust covers back on.

 

550f 450r

in this case the highest rate goes in the front...right?

 

im pretty low....no gap in the front. little bit of tire tucking...

ill take a quick pic to show you guys

 

This is how low the front is.
Havent done the back ones

 

^

 

If it's bouncy, turn the shock damping up. An under damped suspension is what causes bounce, and Koni Sports are adjustable for a reason...

Besides, with only the front s on the car, you have a very radical imbalance in front to rear stiffness. This alone can produce an uncomfortable ride.

At the ride height in the picture, you'll have very little suspension travel before pushing the shock into the bumpstop, which increases the spring rate quickly, which the shock can't adequately damp, which will result in a bouncy ride.

If you want to ride slammed like that, you will want to do some careful suspension measurements to determine the correct bumpstop length to use. It should be as short and progressive as possible, but still long enough to prevent fully bottoming out any part of the suspension. With GC extended upper shock mounts, the UCA will hit the shock tower, so determine the bumpstop length and rate around that contact as the point of bottoming out.

I love my GC sleeves, but they did not to their homework with the bumpstops supplied with the extended upper shock mounts. A custom bumpstop stack is required for the best ride quality and to minimize the chance of damage from part interference.

 

You must of read my mind, I was going to post that up today. There are people that want to go low, but don't do enough research or any research at all before going low on their rides.

 

dude u gotta install everything and tweak the set up to your liking. Thats why they make adjustable set ups.

 

Deam slamed all the way . Bump , for a nice looks .

 

Thanks for the info tunernoob.

Now I realize I have another problem.

The guy I bought it from told me I didnt need bumpstops because I had the top hats.
So I have no bump stops.

Is thereawebsite were I can getsome bumpstops.

Thanks

 

any parts stores should sell bump stops. or you could make your own using dog chew toy (look it up).

just got to make sure you cut it down, so you're not riding the bump stops. bump stops are just there in case you bottom out, not for you to ride on.

 

Do you want to do the homework to build the best solution, or just slap something in there to help prevent total failure?

These are what GC sends out with the extended upper shock mounts.
http://www.ground-control-store.com/...tion.php/II=10
Specifically, they provide the "soft shock" one.

One of the points of a bumpstop is to prevent fully bottoming out the shock's internal shaft, which can cause damage.

The guy you bought them from is technically correct, since an Integra with GC extended upper shock mounts will slam the UCA into the shock tower before the shock fully bottoms. So, no bumpstop is needed to protect the shocks. However, you do want something in there to help cushion the impact of the UCA, or you risk blowing the upper balljoint out and/or bending the knuckle (my knuckles are bent and my shock towers are dented from repeated impacts from the UCA).

A real race supply shop will have bumpstops in various lengths and stiffness. You measure the exact length you need at full compression and build a bumpstop stack that will compress to a slightly longer length than needed.

 

Okay,when you say I need to measure at full compress....
do you mean with the car just parked sitting on wheels?

I really wan to do this right so I wont have to go back and mess with it

Thanks for all this usefull information....

 

Nope.

You need the car on jackstands. Remove the spring from one corner, disconnect the swaybar, and put the shock back in. Lift the suspension assembly to full compression, you should notice that the UCA hits before the shock bottoms out. At this point, you measure the remaining shock shaft travel (which is really hard with the shock body in the way), and build the bumpstop stack such that their fully compressed length is slightly longer than the measured distance. Keep in mind that a bumpstop has 2 lengths, the uncompressed length and the fully compressed length, and it is the latter that we are interested in here.

The information I'm giving is only somewhat useful, since it requires difficult measurements, and buying parts based on information that isn't commonly given out (bumpstop compressed length).

I used to know a site that sold a wide variety of bumpstops and gave out useful information (including graphs of the the bumpstop rate vs compression), but seem to have lost the URL, which is areal shame since I still need to do this on my car.

In the end, most of us just "fake it" one way or another. I raised my car 1" and got ride of most of the UCA banging, but still haven't done the measurements to buy exactly what I need. So, I'm kind of saying "do as I say, but not what I do, if you really care".

 

So im doing my suspension today.
I take of my rim and the first thing I notice is this...
Whats going on here?
Any ideas.
Thanks

Im going to be measuring for bumpstops

 

 

What is that metal? And how can I get rid of it?