Here's the scenario: I have done some searching, but can't exactly find what I'm looking for.

This Integra was running and died suddenly on the highway. Never happened before. Afterwards, the car will start up after it has cooled down, but then it would die shortly after it starts running.
Sounds like a main relay problem, right?
But I hear clicks every time I turn the key to the ON position and I always hear the fuel pump prime. I should probably take it out and inspect it anyways.

The car has no spark. I have replaced the ignition coil, rotor, and cap. Still no luck.
Actually, after I replaced the coil, the car sounded different whenever I tried to start it.

Here is a video:
[youtube]wbk4VLXje-k[/youtube]

What are your thoughts, guys?



UPDATE: So good news:
The car now has spark. I replaced the entire dizzy with a working used one. I'm assuming the internal sensors WERE bad.

BUT, the car still makes the really weird clanking noises, so I took off the VC and inspected the timing belt and everything. The timing belt seemed fine, but the cam gears were definitely off sync. The left cam gear was pointing to the right (45 degrees > from TDC) while the right cam gear was pointing up at TDC.

So to fix the issue, should I just loosen the timing belt, rotate the pulley until the right cam is TDC and then move the left cam gear up to TDC and tighten everything back down?

Thanks!

 

So does it get spark? Pull a plug out and contact it with a screw on the VC, do you see spark? Do this for each plug.

Does it get fuel?

 

all you fuses good?

 

check starter and ignition fuses, as well as wiring. but it seems like it is getting power so you may want to check to make sure your fuel pump, filter, and all lines are not clogged.

 

Are you getting power at the dizzy harness connector?

 

You said, "The car has no spark. I have replaced the ignition coil, rotor, and cap. Still no luck", does that mean you still have no spark or just that the engine still will not start

If you still have no spark, replace the only ign. part you have not already, ICM, [igniter].

Pull a spark plug right after trying to start the engine, if the plug is "wet" with gas, fuel is probably not your problem so PGM-FI Main Relay is OK. 94

 

on my integra i had the rotor go out then a couple months later the igniter be sure to check that too like the previous guy recommended

 

Sorry guys, I was not getting any spark at all.
I just replaced the ICM today and the result is the same. I charged the battery and here is the outcome.
[youtube]6WCXmZa3UxE[/youtube]

I should be getting fuel. I can hear the fuel pump prime and whatnot, but I have yet to test a fuel line.
I looked at all the fuses and I didn't see any blown ones. Or any dizzy fuses iirc. I'll check them all again.

I haven't even checked for power at the dizzy connector. Could you please explain to me how I'd go about doing that?

 

sounds like the battery connection isnt tight or the battery is shot

 

The black/yellow at the distributor assembly is the 12V+ ign. input, it should be hot when ign. key is in the run and start positions.

Make sure there is power on the black/yellow in both run and start. 94

 

i had the same prob in my 97. had to replce the ignition harness. its located behind the lock cylinder on the steering column.

 

It doesn't sound right when you try to start it. I would check the mechanical timing. Possible you jumped. It just doesn't sound right...

 

No if it was a ignition switch you wouldn't be able to even get it to crank. Tell tell sign of that problem is instrument panel lights goes black as soon as you release the key from the start position and it rest at the "ON" position.

 

According to the second video, this sounds more like a battery issue. I'd get a load test from a respectable shop... no I'm not talking about autozone testing. I wouldn't trust them for any advice, they are there to sell you something. If the battery cells are damaged or getting old this is the culprit. I'd test it before I waste anymore money buying unnecessary parts.

 

Say what, it is possible to have crank, even start, [and stall as soon as key is released from start position] and still be an ign. switch problem, pretty common on older Honda/Acura.

If cranking is a problem, [engine turns over slowly] then start by checking/ redoing the main power and ground connections, batt. terminals, chassis and engine ground, batt. to starter and batt. to engine bay fuse box, can't hurt to do both ends of alt. to engine bay fuse box, don't forget the main fuses.
All the above should be undone, both contact surfaces cleaned, reconnected tightly.

If you still have a problem, pull the batt. and have it tested, make sure it is tested properly, once you have the car running you can have the charging system tested, both the above will be done for free at most alt./batt. shops and so on.

You need to confirm that you have 12V+ on the black/yellow when ign. switch is in run and start positions. 94

 

i myself am having a problem similar to this... i have a 1991 acura integra that i've been having problems starting for a while. Its so wierd because sometimes it'll work fine for a few days but when I drive for a while maybe on a day of running errans i'll park it and come back to it maybe 30 minutes and it won't want to start. I've seen about 4 mechanics that work on all types of cars and i've gotten several different responses. Fuel pump, distributor, starter and main relay. I replaced the fuel pump, distributor and starter about 8 to 10 months ago. And I replaced the main relay literally 1 week ago. I thought it was all smooth sailing because it was starting great. But today 3/11/11 after driving all over town it did it to me again. It never dies on me. Sometimes it just won't start. I really don't want to go all over town asking different mechanics to tell me different things it might be and end up replacing the whole motor or wiring. I have taken the battery to get checked several times different places. everytime it has come back good. if alternator was bad it wouldnt even crank am i wrong?? please help.

 

Although the problem may be the same, you should have started your own tread instead of jacking this one.
But read... http://www.visualimpressions.ca/switch/ http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html 94

 

So good news:
The car now has spark. I replaced the entire dizzy with a working used one. I'm assuming the internal sensors WERE bad.

BUT, the car still makes the really weird clanking noises, so I took off the VC and inspected the timing belt and everything. The timing belt seemed fine, but the cam gears were definitely off sync. The left cam gear was pointing to the right (45 degrees > from TDC) while the right cam gear was pointing up at TDC.

So to fix the issue, should I just loosen the timing belt, rotate the pulley until the right cam is TDC and then move the left cam gear up to TDC and tighten everything back down?

Thanks!

 

You need to do a proper valve timing, search here or Google for a step by step. 94

 

You need to take the belt completely off. After which I would recommend replacing it with a new one, and a new tensionser and water pump while you're at it. To be honest though, the car should run just fine with the cams slightly off like that.

But yes, please, please do a valve adjustment.

 

I will definitely be replacing ALL the belts and whatnot. But, after I get the car up and running.

I have Googled on how to do a valve adjustment and I found a youtube video over it, a few articles on random websites, and a DIY from H-T that was over a H22A.
Good enough?


update: I actually forgot to note that the timing belt was somewhat loose. Loose enough for me to take off the belt (doh!) and to try and adjust the left cam gear. Now I have to get the timing belt back on before I can do the valve adjustments...
I will make sure not to crank the car until I do everything. hah

 

I lied. I cranked the car on after I synced the timing.
Car started right up, but the timing belt will NOT stay tightened. It's tight at one point, but loose at another. It's too loose to be drivable so I need to figure that out.

 

Timing belt tensioner.94

 

Yeahh, hopefully it's not bad, yet. I didn't follow the proper adjustment procedure, so I'll try that soon.