ok i got my crx a year ago, ive done quite a bit to it. but the fan never worked it has always been on a switch, i realized both terminals got power so i grounded one of them and the fan came on with the ignition. so im guessing its the ground circuit thats messed up. i did my wire tuck and now there no power at all there, what i want to do is eliminate the relay and wires and replace it with a basic 5 pin relay. what i need to know is what wires do what and where do i connect them? i know its not gunna be easy but im sure its doable. can somebody help me out?

 

Why not run it stock?
Stock circuit is really easy and it sounds like whoever put it on a switch just didn't want to deal with the original fan problem in the first place.

On the back of the black near the oil filter are two sensors. One has a single prong and the other has two. The sensor with two prongs is actually a thermo switch. When it heats up is closes - just like you flipping a switch. It provides ground to the fan relay. The connector to this thermo switch has one wire that is constant ground and the other wire runs to the fan relay.

It is common for he thermo switch to get disconnected with a sloppy oil filter change, or the ground wire to become 'ungrounded' from a wire tuck or harness modification, or the thermo switch just goes bad.

Some people tap into the wire from the thermo switch and hook it to a toggle switch (one side of the switch has a wire spliced into the thermo switch wire that runs to the relay and the side of the toggle goes straight to ground). Then they can let the fan run automatically just like stock AND they can flip their toggle switch to give more cooling when they are going to race.

 

i want to do it stock, does anyone have a diagram of what wires go where so i can trace it all and find out wats up?

 

Bump because I need to do this too.

 

Found this on Google.
Make sure that the #15 fuse is good!

 

so where would the ect come into play at?
nevermind i found it, srry lol

 

ok well i think im missing one part of my ect ground. the yllw/grn wires from the relay goes to one side of the switch harness and the other wire is grounded correct?

 

why not just jump the fan switch in the back of the block to see if that turns it on. if it does, then replace it

 

already did, it doesnt so thats why i figure its a wiring problem

 

first check your fuse.

Try connecting the YEL/GRN wire directly to ground.
If that DOES work then the black "G101 or G151" ground wire is not right.

If not, then troubleshoot the RADIATOR FAN RELAY.

More than likely, the toggle switch you haver it running on now wasn't spliced into the existing wires.
The probably cut the BLU and BLK/YEL wires and aren't using the relay at all.

 

no, the way i have mine hooked up, i took out the switch, hooked it all up correct and it didnt work when i jumped the ect. i then pulled out the trusty old multimeter and checked for power at the fan, both wires had close to 12 volts, i grounded the black wire and the fan comes on with the ignition now. check fuse 15 but since i have power at the fan that is clearly not the problem. and where at do i ground the yllw/grn? by ect? by relay? and i have a 93 cx block in my car so my ect is on the thermostat housing, would that cause a problem?

 

Doesn't matter where the ECT is located - yours on the thermostat housing is fine.

Yellow/Green doesn't get grounded. It goes from relay to ECT.
When the ECT heats up it closes and it connects the Yellow/Green to the Black wire.
Black wire should be grounded
So basically, if all it good, when you put a jumper in the ECT connector, you are hooking Yellow/Green directly to ground.

I was suggesting to hook Yellow/Green to ground (anywhere) temporarily to see if the fan relay worked.
If it DOES work then you are very close to done.
You say "hooked it all up correct and it didnt work when i jumped the ect" - if hooking Yellow/Green to ground turns the fan on (as I wrote two lines above) then the black wire is not grounded and is the problem.

 

just to clarify ect /= fan switch. that can throw off everything.

 

ok i will do that when u get a chance to take the fender off today, and yes, ect = engine coolant temperature switch

 

Alright, one day, all of a sudden mi see the check engine light on my car, the next day i tried starting the car, but it only came on after 2 tries, after that, i put the car in reverse, the engine just vibrated when i touched on gas, put it in drive, the same effect, this has happened every morning, and only in the morning.

Next thing, i drove to Kingston, when i reached, the coolant reservoir was empty, and I had filled it up before leaving Montego Bay, before leaving Kingston, i filled it again, by the time i reached Mo Bay, it was empty. The next day i noticed bubbles in the coolant reservoir so i bled the radiator thinking air was in it. After letting the car run for about 10 minutes, it still had bubbles in it, i then noticed that the radiator fan comes in for 10 seconds max, then goes off, and when it comes on, there are no bubbles, but when it is off, voila, bubbles, so right now i have to be driving with the ac on at all times.

My mechanic was saying its the head gasket, but would the bubbles disappear when the fan is on if the head gasket was the problem??? There is no smoke coming from the muffler, no oil in the cooland reservoir, no water on the dipstick, can someone plz help me??? I am thinking its some sensor gone bad, as the check engine light comes on. I had tried to get someone to sort the check engine light out, but him woulda haffi pull down the dashboard him seh, to find some kinda box, so dat proly would get done next week. But if any a you, with the problems i presented, could figure this out, or offer some advice, feel free to, cuz mi nuh wha open the engine.

Bless

 

You need to go start your own thread rather than hijacking your question into this thread.
- but -
Your water is going somewhere. It's not just disappearing and you have to refill.
Try this - fill the radiator (not the plastic reservoir) with water, leave the radiator cap off, and then start the engine.
Rev the motor a little - does water blast out of the radiator? If so your head gasket is blown.
If it doesn't jet out, go have a look at it. Do bubbles keep coming up? If there are bubbles then it could still be your headgasket.
Look around under the engine for water puddles - a leak will cause bubbles too. No leaks then it's highly likely that your headgasket is blown.

You don 't need any special tools to check the codes for the check engine light.
There is a blue connector that isn't connected to anything that is found under your glovebox that has 2 wires going to it. You stick a paperclip in the connector to short the wires together. Then turn the ingition to ON (not start). Pull back the carpet on yoru passenger side and you will see the car computer. It will be flashing codes that you decrypt - short blinks are "1" and long are "10". Long, long, short , short, short, would be code "23". Search the internet for "honda ECU trouble codes" and you can tell what sensor is being triggered.

BUT - VERY often the sensor is good and something is wrong with your engine. The Sensor is just getting triggered by the fault... such as a bad headgasket.

 

I am having a similar issue, my car cam already tucked, with no fan I have a blue and black wire hooked to the fan when the key is on the blue has 12v, but the fan will not come on, the car had A/c and now does not, I found a 4 prong (fan?) relay in the passenger wheel well, and it has power to two connectors and ground to the other two with the key on, the fuse is good and I jumped the temp switch and nothing. It is my understanding that there should be power to the fan when the key is on and when the temp reaches its point the sender closes sending ground to the relay and then ground to the fan, right??

 

You are correct.

Pos 12v goes to the fan when key is 'ON'.
The temp switch closes the relay with a ground trigger.
The relay then completes the fan circuit by providing the fan a ground.

First, make sure the fan works by hooking direct to battery.

Sounds like whomever did the tuck bypassed or rewired the relay.
The relay should only have one pos on it, one constant ground, and the two should have no reading until the temp switch closes. At that point the temp switch makes the remaining 2 connections on the relay go to ground.

However, you have constant power to the fan when you turn the key on.
That's not how the system is supposed to work at all.
Blue wire should read ground (not pos) only when the temp switch gets warm enough.

You are going to have to figure out where your blue wire is really going.
Hopefully it goes to that relay you found and then you can just wire the relay correctly.

The fan may work to get you by for now until you have time to work on the wiring.
Try leaving the blue wire as it is, but use a different black wire going directly to to the battery neg or to a know good chassis ground. You have 12v on blue... my guess is that the black wire ground you have isn't good.

 

OK so the blue is the signal from the relay and black should be hot, I'm picking up a new relay to try as i could not get to do anything, worse comes to worse I'll just put in a manual switch.

 

Actually, black with a yellow stripe should be hot.
The black only wire is constant ground.

Does the relay you have now have any marking an it near the contacts?
Like A, B, C, D?

 

worse comes to worse you could wire in a 4 wire spst relay and have it function exactly as it would if it were stock..

 

Ok I checked the wires again, with the switch on both the blue and the black have 12v the relay I picked up today has 1234 terminals, I will have to pull the wheel off to see what wires and terminals are on the relay that is in the car

 

This may seem like a dumb question but my radiator fan is wired to a switch and I want to put it back to where it turns on when I start it. Could I wire the positive wire on the fan to my cigarette lighter? I know that comes on when the key is in the ignition

 

Ended up putting in a switch, all the wiring was there and correct, replaced the relay, but the rywire harness has a plug that connects to the temp sender in the thermo housing, and then goes to the ecu, but the original wires that went to the back of the block were just taped up, not sure what the connected wires do in the new harness but I wired a switch in till I can sort out the rywire connections.