pretty newb question so make fun of me for it haha. what is this and where do I incorporate it to work with my b18a1. is it an iacv for the dualpoint that came in the civics?

 

thats ur vaccumm lines for emmissions and stuff.
u need to plug it into ur new manifold.

 

its called an EVAP Purge Solenoid

 

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...t:429,r:13,s:0

 

that's also your MAP sensor for OBD0. You can continue to use that one, or extend the wires and use the TB mounted MAP.

 

can I eliminate them for the ones on my intake? confused on what to do.

 

i dont have the money to pay someone to wire my obd0 harness to obd1 and multipoint and also an ecu jumper. can anyone help me out, give me a precise wiring diagram, and/or tell me what all plugs on the obd0 engine harness must be changed over?

 

i only used 1 on my swap which was the one on the throttle body not the firewall one and it worked fine. u dont have to use two.

 

ne pics of it hooked up and where all it hooks up at?

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/how-dpfi-mpfi-without-issue-no-code-4-a-2906110/
for the dual point conversion follow my write up

 

another new question. I think Imma stay obd0. if I do can I use an auto ecu from a Teg and make it work with my car since obviously its a 5 speed

 

i dont think thats possible.

 

it will run, but you will have a CEL for the A/T components.

 

true i did this for a while in my hatch it is best just to get the right ecu man. i found good prices on here like 40 bucks.

 

well its all I can afford. but off the ecu issue, what do I have to do special to wire for multipoint and a resistor box since my car was originally auto. Im going to the junkyard friday so I can grab some injectors, a resistor box, ecu and dizzy
will this work?
http://fourthgenhatch.net/mpfi.html

they mention this. is it only if I was still running an auto ecu or iss it still needed since my car was an auto?

"Automatics and Exceptions
On an automatic car (using an auto ECU), pin B11 is wired to your shifter position switch, D4. Since you won’t be moving that pin, you will need an extra ECU pin. If you're using the tried and true "cut" method, put the extra pin in B12. If you're using the "switch" method, put it in the C2 position. Other than this, the rest of your conversion should be exactly the same."

 

whats a CEL
also for the obd0 injector plugs, can they be from a d series. just gonna cut the obd0 plugs off d series harness if so

 

CEL is check engine light.

 

Im doing a B18 swap on a 90 dx hatch, I have the complete engine I need to know what harness and ecu I need and if I need anything else

 

you need to use the engine harness that fits your chassis and you need to use google! theres a million write ups on b swaps

 

ok do things in order. it will help your sanity and confusion. Do the auto to manual conversion first. Its not hard and please for the love of god buy the correct ecu and stop posting threads about running the wrong one.

Second, do the mpfi wiring

third, Do the obd0 to obd1 wiring IF YOU DECIDE TO RUN OBD1

DO things one at a time and you wont mess the wiring up. as for the vaccuum lines. buy a Y splitter, connect the 2 lines from your car into 1 and run that 1 line to your manifold

seriously, start googling things before you make repeat threads. Google is your friend. Flame all you want but 5 mins on google would have saved you a ton of time and effort.

Then maybe you would have more cash to spend on parts bc youd buy the right ones the first time

 

I didnt buy any wrong parts? thanks for the advice tho I'll see about that vacuum line splitter I already have the obd1 ecu and dizzy some Im just gonna keep them in case I ever wanna go obd1. for a budget Im gonna stay obd0. Im buying the ecu and dizzy online and then this week going to the junkyard for injectors, injector plugs, and resistor box

 

alright I know youre all sick of the newb questions but Im just trying to get my car running. I need to know if I can use a B16 obd0 dizzy for my ls. wouldnt it have extra wires for vtec that I could leave unwired so it would work like an ls dizzy? once again sorry for the newb questions

 

http://www.google.com/

I searched for you, took 2 mins or less


it will work but it wont bolt up with all three bolts. but it will run it if you are just trying to jerry rig your car together. Search harder and find an ls distributor. they are EVERYWHERE. I could find you 10 in less than an hour if I cared enough

 

I got the starter with the engine I got but it doesnt fit. does anyone know if the auto and 5 speed starters bolt up a little bit diff or is just the diff in gen of Tegs. dont bitch that Im asking I dont feel like driving out to the junkyard, wasting my money on gas to get the same starter

 

still need an answer to this starter question b4 saturday

Im using hasport mounts and the engine isnt sitting straight because the block is hitting the bracket for the old front transmission mount. does this need removed?