fresh, rebuilt D15B engine. What oil should I run?
I just rebuilt my D15B8 engine( rings, bearings main caps and rods, valves and seals, ect) and im not sure if I can start off running amsoil which is full syn oil or do I need to run regular oil for a few thousand miles first. any info would be great. Please do not post unless your 100% sure, cant afford to mess this engine up. its my DD and I used all oem honda parts for the rebuild so it wasnt cheap. Thanks
i'd use a good quality conventional oil until the first oil change. something like valvoline or mobil.
then go synthetic...
others may have different ideas, but this is what i do.
then go synthetic...
others may have different ideas, but this is what i do.
normally people run regular straight 30 weight to start it up, then drop the oil because during the initial start up you end up with bearing material, shavings off rings, any foreign debris from machining that wasn't cleaned well enough.
Use a quality conventional until it's well broken in. The conventional allows the rings to seat correctly.
After it's broken in, you can run synthetic.
The majority of the breaking occurs in the first 20 miles. There's conflicting information about how to break a motor in but the main two views are running it easy, believing you can't be hard on a new motor or it'll ruin it. Or you have to get on it to force the rings out against the walls to break in and do multiple cycles of accelerating and letting the engine brake itself. The key is not romping on the motor, just putting a load on it.
Use a quality conventional until it's well broken in. The conventional allows the rings to seat correctly.
After it's broken in, you can run synthetic.
The majority of the breaking occurs in the first 20 miles. There's conflicting information about how to break a motor in but the main two views are running it easy, believing you can't be hard on a new motor or it'll ruin it. Or you have to get on it to force the rings out against the walls to break in and do multiple cycles of accelerating and letting the engine brake itself. The key is not romping on the motor, just putting a load on it.
i agree whenever ive had to rebuild and or put back together a motor after some much needed work.. even the dealer specifies to break in the motor for about 500 with conventional 5w-30 oil... sometimes even 10w-30... and after since the motor will be fresh use a part synthetic in it.. really no need to use full synthetic unless u plan on building it to certain specs that may need for it... at least those are my opinions
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I think he is saying with very bad English that he "does not want to lose his engine," or "needs help not losing his engine" and I assume that means breaking or damaging it.
Break-in oil, with a high zinc content. Start the car, let it warm up, check for leaks. Once it warms up, drain and refill again with fresh break-in oil. Run the engine hard for 50 miles. High load pulls and engine braking. Drain and refill one more time with fresh break-in oil. Drive normally for 500 miles. Drain and refill with whatever oil you want, and continue standard oil change rotations from there.
While you're at it, don't bump 3 year old threads.
While you're at it, don't bump 3 year old threads.
What is known is much life has been removed from your motor due to faulty break in on the fresh rebuilt motor. Can't take back those 150-200 miles.
x2 about not bumping 3 year old threads.
normally people run regular straight 30 weight to start it up, then drop the oil because during the initial start up you end up with bearing material, shavings off rings, any foreign debris from machining that wasn't cleaned well enough.
Use a quality conventional until it's well broken in. The conventional allows the rings to seat correctly.
After it's broken in, you can run synthetic.
The majority of the breaking occurs in the first 20 miles. There's conflicting information about how to break a motor in but the main two views are running it easy, believing you can't be hard on a new motor or it'll ruin it. Or you have to get on it to force the rings out against the walls to break in and do multiple cycles of accelerating and letting the engine brake itself. The key is not romping on the motor, just putting a load on it.
Use a quality conventional until it's well broken in. The conventional allows the rings to seat correctly.
After it's broken in, you can run synthetic.
The majority of the breaking occurs in the first 20 miles. There's conflicting information about how to break a motor in but the main two views are running it easy, believing you can't be hard on a new motor or it'll ruin it. Or you have to get on it to force the rings out against the walls to break in and do multiple cycles of accelerating and letting the engine brake itself. The key is not romping on the motor, just putting a load on it.
First off, stop bumping ancient threads. No one likes that guy. Don't be that guy.
Second off, did you even TRY to read this thread? I can already tell that you didn't. Either you fucked up your rebuild with incorrect clearances, gaps, and decking, or you fucked up your engine by not breaking it in correctly.
Second off, did you even TRY to read this thread? I can already tell that you didn't. Either you fucked up your rebuild with incorrect clearances, gaps, and decking, or you fucked up your engine by not breaking it in correctly.
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