dpfi to mpfi painlessly No code 4!

Feel free to donate a few bucks to my paypal if this thread helps get your car going. I'm sayin whats 10 bucks vs your car only revving out to 3200 rpm. Pm me for paypal info.

Ok so I just did a dpfi to mpfi in an ef and I ran into the infamous code 4 crank sensor issue. I read all over the net people having this issue and I know of a few people personally that have gotten rid of their cars because of this problem. I'm going to address this issue right now. When you do the wiring at the ecu most of the time people use the wrong pins and they don't make contact with the ecu. The pins from the a,b,and c connector are not the same from connector to connector and this is the root of 95% of code 4 issues. When rewiring the dizzy for the conversion don't de-pin C1 and C2. Cut the wires at the ecu leaving enough room to solder the new wire. When you wire the crank sensor at b10 and b12, b10 will be empty and you may or may not have a pin at b12. You can take the pin out of b2 and put it in b10 and if you don't have a pin at b12 you can take it from b11. This will ensure you are using the proper pins for that terminal. When installing the new pins make sure they are facing the right way and you get the white plastic tab to click in correctly. now just run the wires to the correct sensors on the distributor. If you do it the way I described I guarantee you will not get the code 4 and you will have a painless experience. Here is the correct write up that I followed. Just pin it up like I said and follow the other directions in the write up and you will have a painless experience as well.

 

Thanks for the write-up... however your image file is broken?

 

pics = fail

 

Yes man likei said it still wont go past 3k rpms i have already tried this and it dont work idk what else to do

 

If you are getting code 4 and you have all the distributor wiring correct. then you are not making contact with the ecu. If you did it exactly like I said you wont have a problem. Keep trying with the correct pins until you get it right. I though I was making good contact as well but I was not. C1 and C2 you should use the existing pins that were originally there. for b10 an b12 you should have a pin in b12 already if not take it from b11 and for b10 there wasnt a pin so take it from b2 if you already havnt. If you have the dizzy wiring correct then you are not making ecu contact with the pins. I dont what else to tell you. If you tried already try again.

 

why are you guys on honda tech such jerks? here I am trying to help people out and this guy tells me fail because the pic didnt show up. FAIL? Really? how bout thanks but the image didnt show?. It shows up for me but I will try again for the people that aren't rude. Keep rude comments to yourself for now on.

 

image penetration I mean image inserted

 

anyone else need help with this i can be reached easier on b20vtec.com rollinswapshop331

 

bumpppppppppppppppppppp

 

so on obd 1 move the wires and dont use a resisiter box

 

I did one and I keep getting either code 8 or 9... Im on my 3rd motor since I did the conversion and Ive gotten the same one with all three... but they all still ran fine

 

what do you mean move the wires? you can pickup power for the injector box either from the two yellow and black wires from the dpfi injector or the same color wires off the main relay. it matters whether u use obd0 or obd1 injectors whether or not you use a resistor box.

 

bump for the clueless

 

I ran this setup from the get go. I ran the b2 into the b10 spot already had a wire at b12. And its still sayin code 4. And runs like crap am i screwd or wat? Ima go over wiring 1 more time tonight but if that dont work should i replaced dizzy? I know that the sensor is in there but i tried another dizzy and same problem so it has to be my wiring right? well I just hope to get it going had the car for over a month and ran when i parked it then did the swap and no go for this g.i Joe lol.. Help please? Sorry for jacking ur thread im just new to this site..


Thanks for any and all help

 

any chance we could get a bigger picture???

 

I know thats what im saying.. Kindness makes the world go round! I sound like a hippie but ur right. Thanks for showing the pic. Is there any way we could see the picture just bigger? Please!!!!!!!!


Thank you :D

 

Omg im an idoit... It was as simple as putting the clips back in in the b connector.. Wow thanks for every1's input!

 

you can make it bigger by pressing control and scrolling up. keep this thread up people. this problem is so common and I cant find another one that explains how to fix it.

 

I agree im telling every1 and saving to favorites

 

bump for the needy

 

Thanks but that just makes it blurry and unable to read......

 

well you can find the image at google images if you type dpfi to mpfi it comes right up everybody. I tried to make it bigger to no avail.

 

hate to bump an old thread but i am dropping in a b16a2 and going to do the wiring myself. i have a DA integra LS harness that i am using for the injectors and wiring and such.
i am currently focused on using this write up http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/techni...-diagrams.html

but i am the type of person i do alot better with pics of the entire process..
is there a plug on the DA harness that i can use to plug into the resistor box, and also do i keep all of the wires that are in that gray plug with all the yel/blk wires in it?

 

I think this whole code 4 crap is crap.
if you've got that issue, swap the yel/blu and grn/blu wire, done.
if it doesn't even start, switch the white wires.
or learn how to check for continuity using a long wire, a battery, and a test light. not hard.
the pins are the same from B connector to C. A is the only one that's different.
I KNOW this because I've done a couple mpfi swaps now, and my first mpfi swap is still running code-less with a new motor as well. if you don't know how to check for continuity, you shouldn't be swapping electricals. if you depinned the pins PROPERLY you won't have an issue. I literally just yanked the wire out of the connector, bent the "pin" back, and slid it into the new connector. why is that so difficult? you guys over-complicate simple things.

and for God's sake, don't use butt connectors.

 

is there any way you can answer my above question??