Whats going on, I need some more help trying to diagnose my car....

I picked up a stolen 00 GSR recovery with 38k miles. The ignition is still busted, I bought a new battery, fuel pump, fuses, and other small miscellaneous items.

Heres my problem...A week ago I was getting no power to the vehicle at all, I swapped out the 40amp fuse in the engine compartment and I was getting full power to the vehicle...

I then tried to start the car up and realized about immobilizer in the ecu/key. The car would crank over and over but the green key would flash on the dash board repeatedly. I then notified I was getting no power to the fuel pump. I swapped a 1999 SI ECu (with no immobilizer) thinking I would get power to the fuel pump and it would start.....

I am still getting zero power to the fuel pump, and dash display..I tested the 9 wires that hook to the main relay and the wire that supply's power to the Fuel Pump, is getting zero power. No power to the main relay and no power goes to the fuel pump...

I visually looked at the wires that HOOK UP TO THE MAIN RELAY......and retracted them to the fuse box and where ever else they go...

This is my question....Where do the wires that connect to the main relay get their power?

OR.......

Is there still a problem with the new ecu I installed that is possibly causing no power to the Fuel Pump?

I am stuck and don't know WTF is going on....


OR.....

I bring the car to Acura and buy the new Key ignition now and rechip the ecu.....

I wanted that to be my last thing I did cause its a pain in the *** to go to the dealership towing the car both ways....

 

I'm thinking that perhaps the immobilizer is separate from the ECU, and probably keyed to it (Dodges does this)... so swapping the ECU won't fix it. You'd need to pull the immobilizer also in order to allow the new ECU to work. Not being familiar with the immobilizer tech in the integra..

Anyhow, the whole setup is designed to foil thieves and the dealers by definition won't help you much.

The good news is that you have the original keys and original ECU, right? If you have the title, original keys/immobilizer/ECU you may be able to get the dealer to (re) program the system.

? Mark

 

The Immobilizer is built into the ecu..I swapped the ECU for the purpose to get rid of the immobilizer. The dash display would flash a green key when the immobilizer was "activated"

With the new ECU there is no green key, hence no immobilizer active....

I just dont understand why Im still not getting power to the Main Relay

 

Is there any type of alarm or safety kills installed anywhere that you know of?
I would also check the ignition switch wires as well,might be a cut wire somewhere being they wore able to take the car last time.

 

The car was unsuccessful at being stolen, it was broken into seats were taken, ignition busted, and the immobilizer turned on....

The ignition wires are fine, no breaks, bends in them @ all......

There are no kill switches, I fully removed the after market alarm system

Again, I have no idea wtf is going on!!!!

 

For the immobilizer part i removed mine and my car ran fine and i got power to everything in my 2000gsr before i converted to obd1 so thats prob not the case.

 

thats what I was thinking with the new ECU installed...

 

All that leaves is to start tracing power on the leads that are involved in starting... Do you have wiring diagrams for the car?

 

No I do not. I will need to start searching...

 

I have a manual set for the 96 GSR - but I don't know how it differs. The immobilizer might be one of those differences, but it seems there is something simpler that's been cut/torn/etc that should stand out once you get the wiring diags in front of you and spend an hour with a volt-ohm meter..

 

when you turn the key to start the engine, the first place you will get power to is the starter. you have a fuse before it reaches the starter. under the hood of your car in the fuse box you have a ground wire and a power wire trace does two cables and you will find the problem.

 

Yes correct, the fuse for the starter is fine and working properly...the wires in the engine bay are both properly grounded and powered....thats not my problem.

My problem is why am I not getting any power to the main relay? Why am I not getting any power specifically to the fuel pump? The Yellow/Gn wire with silver dots...(thicker one)....

I will double check that right now to see if that may possible be a problem...

 

There are 3 powers going to the PGM-FI Main Relay, sorry I do not have the fuse numbers for a 00 Teg, but...

There should be a 12V+ constant, possibly a yellow/white with fuse in the engine bay fuse box.
It is power input to the fuel injector relay (#30)

There should be a 12V+ switched, [hot in run and start] possibly a black/yellow or yellow/green, with fuse in under dash fuse box.
It is power to the fuel injector relays coil (#85) and power input to the fuel pump relay (#30), [internal].

There should be a 12V+ "start", [hot during cranking to start only] possibly a blue/white, with fuse in under dash fuse box.
It is "back-up" power for the fuel pump relays coil (#85) during cranking.

These three (3) powers, as far as I know, are not effected by the cars immobilizer, the immobilizer cuts the ground control lead to the fuel pump relays coil (#86), possibly a green/blue.

I will see if I can find a wire diagram for a 00 Tegs PGM-FI Main Relay.

Check fuses... from Chilton repair manual 1997-00 Integra

44- 15A, hot at all times, yellow/white lead.
13- 15A hot in start and run yellow/green.
31- 7.5A this one is confusing, my Chilton manual, 97-00 Integra, indicates this one is a blue/white and as hot at all times, my Haynes manual, [94-97] indicates this as fuse 18 -7.5A, blue/white, hot during cranking to start only, on all other Honda/Acura I have seen this fuse/lead is hot during cranking to start only.
Also fuse designations are not the same, in the Hyanes it is...
Fuse 31-15A, [hot at all times] injector relay input (#30)
Fuse 24-15A, [hot in run and start] injector relay coil (#85) and fuel pump relay input (#30)
Fuse 18-7.5A, [hot during start only] fuel pump relays coil (#85) "back-up" power

In the Chilton it is...
Fuse 44-15A, [hot at all times] injector relay input (#30)
Fuse 13-15A, [hot in run and start] injector relay coil (#85) and fuel pump relay input (#30)
Fuse 31- 7.5A, [hot at all times] fuel pump relays coil (#85) "back-up" power

It only makes sense that the Chilton is a typo for fuse 31

I will check my AllData and Mitchel on demand at work, but can't do that until Mon. 94

 

Well this differently helps and when I get off of work I will check to see if these are the problems...Thanks alot for this type up, I need to read this over and over so I fully understand this...

Rep points for you!

 

did u find the problem?