So my em1 will crank but not start. Here is my situation:
1. Fuel pressure, yep
2. Spark, yep
3. I took off dizzy cap and checked, its clean
4. Has been hard starting lately
5. After testing for a while I pulled plug and it has fuel on it, but not like fuel fouled, just from me cranking but no start.
What's next? I was thinking main relay, maybe fpr?

 

Is spark bright white at the plugs?

Have you checked the mechanical timing?

 

i ran a spark intensity test and it jumped about 30 on all 4 cyl. i have not checked timing because by the sound of the cranking it sounds like i have good compression, bc it almost starts, but doesn't. anyway the timing belt was done at 101k, and i bought it last spring at 147k and have been driving it since with no problems, its really strong when it runs

 

^Checking the mechanical timing will eliminate one more thing, it would be a shame to troubleshoot all the other possibilities and find out that your belt has skipped a tooth

 

Any CEL codes? Are the plug wires possibly installed in the wrong firing order?

If you have strong spark and the injectors are spraying fuel, it's time to check whether the timing belt skipped a tooth and to compression test the cylinders.

 

no codes, but yea maybe i should comp test/check timing. just trying to eliminate as many things as possible first before i tear into it. guess i'll try more tomorrow

 

Just getting to 5 posts. Good luck on this one.

 

...huh?

 

anyway now im thinking it could be main relay, bc it controls my EFI timing. im going to pic one up after work and see what happens

 

Not likely as you have both spark and fuel.

 

UPDATE: (sorry ive been out of town)
compression #s from cyl 1-4 (approx.): 95, 45, 95, 95. Comp tester adapter was covered in oil after testing each cyl.
I poured some oil down the cylinders and comp tested again. Numbers were around 120-125 on all 4.
I pulled valve cover today to check timing belt. Seemed slightly loose to me, but haven't been able to rotate engine to check timing marks due to the fact that the car is on a slanted driveway and my jack just blew up and leaked fluid everywhere.
Thats where I'm at so far. Right now I'm thinkin bad rings, but could timing also be an issue? Would there be enough interference to make a lot of noise if timing was off half to whole tooth?

 

I have no clue but I had a similar situation with my moms Honda CRV. One day it would crank but not start. I also checked everything then I noticed that before I used to start the car, it would make an alternator squeeking noise. So I decided to tighten the alternator belt. After, I started the car and it ran.. go figure

 

I did do my belts a few weeks ago, but I usually error on the side of too tight. Besides I've never heard of that happening before. You sure it was the belt and not just a coincidence?

 

The cylinder with 45 PSI is clearly a big concern. Was the engine hot when you did the compression test? Did you remove all the plugs for the test?

 

Ya bc the one cyl had so much less than the others I was thinking bad rings, not timing. Yes all plugs were out. It was actually pretty cold outside the first evening that I ran the testing. The day when I tried testing it with oil was a little warmer. Engine hasn't been "hot" for about two weeks, since it hasn't run for that long.

Side note: When I ran a fuel pressure test a while ago, it was at around 60psi. I think the specs are b/t 40-47psi. Is this another problem to address? Maybe fpr?

 

I think you should repeat both tests (dry versus wet) to confirm the numbers. You also need to remove the ECU fuse so that the injectors don't spray fuel in the cylinders during the test.

60 PSI is definitely a high fuel pressure. If you don't have an aftermarket fuel pump, then check the FPR and fuel return.

 

Yep I unplugged main relay when doing comp test. I might re-test later today and post up numbers. How do I check fpr and fuel return?

 

how to check FPR or fuel return?